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Easing off into porting.

Stump Shot

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How would you fix the drive cable excess stickout problem?
Carefully grind a bit off and very gently deburr the tip?
Of course re-checking fit as you go.
My first thought at least.
Adjust the stick out where the outer sheath attaches to the motor with the set screw by pulling in/out until 3/4" of inner sticks out the end and tighten.
 

legdelimber

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Stump shot, Got ya. thanks.

Would be nice if my butt was in same location as my junk and could actually look at things.
My brain is thinking like the outer sheath is a typical screw on (like the speedo or tach cables were on motorcycles many years ago)
Then the inner cable usually had a ferrule on one end (upper) and that controlled the cable stickout.
 

wcorey

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Some older fyi threads, some good discussion on cheap handpieces and such, not sure how pricing/availability and all is these days though...

https://opeforum.com/threads/which-foredom-square-drive-or-key-tip.24704/

 

nbbt

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The replacement parts link is also at the bottom of the shop dropdown list.
HF Parts link.jpg
 

legdelimber

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srcarr52

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I've order a bunch of stuff off Aliexpress without issues.

That handpiece turns a little slow as it's 1.5:1 ratio, they can be pretty noisy and run rough. Also it comes with a 3mm collet which can be hard to find decent burrs in a 3mm shank. They head is quit large, but it will work in 70cc and up cylinders.
 

legdelimber

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Hmm. So a fellow might be able to slide this 90 head straight down into an open port cylinder (with the burr already into the port/transfer tunnel), but a closed port cylinder will need to be a fair amount larger diameter in order to swing the burr into the port.

Of course the Echo, pb-620 (backpack blower) that I want experiment in, has closed transfers and I believe it's 46mm bore.

I'm thinking a ball burr would let you reach a tiny bit further around the corner into a transfer
(once the 90 head touches the cylinder wall)
But then the diameter will also affect just how small of a corner or inlet angle that you can work in.
So it's a gamble as to how tight of a location this 90 head will be useful in.

Sigh, but that 28 dollar price does wind my curiosity up though.
 

BMSS

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They accept the foredom pieces. I’ve had way more luck with my VEVOR unit than I did the foredom or the HF motor.
which Vevor did you get? I am looking at the SR knock off with reverse by them.
 

srcarr52

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Hmm. So a fellow might be able to slide this 90 head straight down into an open port cylinder (with the burr already into the port/transfer tunnel), but a closed port cylinder will need to be a fair amount larger diameter in order to swing the burr into the port.

Of course the Echo, pb-620 (backpack blower) that I want experiment in, has closed transfers and I believe it's 46mm bore.

I'm thinking a ball burr would let you reach a tiny bit further around the corner into a transfer
(once the 90 head touches the cylinder wall)
But then the diameter will also affect just how small of a corner or inlet angle that you can work in.
So it's a gamble as to how tight of a location this 90 head will be useful in.

Sigh, but that 28 dollar price does wind my curiosity up though.

For something really small the handpiece I make will be your best option.

At 46mm the bore is getting tight even for the CC 182MC and that cheap RA is larger than it.
 

Sdbilli

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Not sure of model but it’s reversible and came from Amazon. I got a 90 degree piece off EBay that’s been solid as well. Just have to cut the bits down is all.
 

drf256

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Only tip I can add is to hang the motor with a 3 foot rope loop. I’ve never snapped a cable this way. If the burr jams, the rope acts like a shock absorber and will twist the unit up towards the ceiling. Give me enough time to let off the pedal before and damage can occur.

I like reverse. It’s good to finish the PTO upper with a diamond egg or stone that’s non-directional. It’s annoying to cut from the exhasut side towards the intake on an upper for me. More difficult to create the same angle and finish.
 
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