Darin
JACK KNOB PRICK
- Local time
- 5:50 AM
- User ID
- 1979
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2016
- Messages
- 299
- Reaction score
- 785
- Location
- DUNSMANURE, CALIFORNIA

Thanks for the info.A ported 2100 likes some advance. Please stop yelling Ive had a headache all morning.
Thanks for the info.A ported 2100 likes some advance. Please stop yelling Ive had a headache all morning.
Thanks for the info.
The saw probably has only 15 hours on it. I haven't done a compression test because I assume it has solid compression being it has low hours. So it's a compression thing with advancing the timing? Does it create more by being advanced? I have run saws for a few years but never got into building or porting them. I'm concerned with the longevity of the saw but also would like to hop it up a bit. Like an old muscle car. I generally cut about 20 cord a year as a side job. My 075 does most of the cutting. The decomp valve is capped and I can manage to safely start it all winter.It matters how much compression it has. Lots of compression, and timing advance without a decomp button usually ends up with a stained arm and the dreaded monkey fist from having the rope pulled out of your hand.
I probably should have given more detail as you have. Iirc mines only .01-.015 advanced. With a wider squish and 101 ex its not kicked on me yet.It matters how much compression it has. Lots of compression, and timing advance without a decomp button usually ends up with a stained arm and the dreaded monkey fist from having the rope pulled out of your hand.
Have a great day.![]()
Not sure how much compression or timing advance you put in my 2100. But it is rather easy to pull over. (Easy for 100 cc anyway)It matters how much compression it has. Lots of compression, and timing advance without a decomp button usually ends up with a stained arm and the dreaded monkey fist from having the rope pulled out of your hand.
Homelite 750 never ran one or seen one in the flesh but I missed a nice one on evilbay , the colour scheme and build style is awesome and can't wait for the next one to come swimming around the lake again
Any photos or videos most welcome
So a ported 2101 would run with a big cc Mac 797, 125?I'm sure there are plenty of guys that can build a stronger saw but for a mild port job with 200 lbs compression its the strongest running saw in my aresenal I've run Mac 125 and a few other saws over 100cc that cant keep up with it in big hardwood with a 42
My ported 395 is the same, that's why my ported 088 got sold. The 125 may be slower but it doesn't get near as warm or turn the rpm's of the 395. I think you would find if you used the saw all day on big cuts, the 125 might be better. Also possible, while heavier, less tiring. I find a lot of rpm noise over a long time can be tiring. Probably cycles and frequency vs the human ear. I doubt there is an old 6 cube saw, ported or not, that can keep up with a ported 395. A few 6 cubes can likely oil a long bar better, and by long I mean over 50 inch.I'm sure there are plenty of guys that can build a stronger saw but for a mild port job with 200 lbs compression its the strongest running saw in my aresenal I've run Mac 125 and a few other saws over 100cc that cant keep up with it in big hardwood with a 42
So a ported 2101 would run with a big cc Mac 797, 125?
I had the same conversation with another member. Not excited about working over a low hour semi vintage saw. And the alternative is to sell or trade up to a 123cc Mac which parts are scarce as well. I've been looking for the ultimate all around big cc performance muscle saw. Sounds like 395 is one of them.In stock form I believe the 2101 turns significantly more RPM's than a 797 or a SP 125. So with shorter bars, it would definitely, in my opinion, exceed either of the 7.5 ci saws.
With many parts for 2100/2101 saws becoming "hens teeth", I'd be reluctant to modify a low hour saw, but that's just me.
Wish i knew you wanted one Andrew, I sold two last year.
Next one i see come up for sale i will let you know.