What’s saw is in the package? An ooerr44 arctic

[mdavlee]

View attachment 207427
View attachment 207428 View attachment 207429tell me what you think of the clean up,

The line in the top r/h side I can hardly feel it with my nail

It looks good from the pictures. I’d run it for sure.

 

[00wyk]

If I were you, I would simply widen the intake and exhaust a mm or two on each side(make sure to wait until you get a new piston in to check the clearances, tho). I'd remove the ridge on the lower transfers, but leave the rest of the timing alone unless you wanna bring the uppers up to where they should be without a gasket. That's another mm or so, and she should be a good runner. The timing on the exhaust and intake on these saws are spot on for a ported work saw, so I wouldn't mod them. Advance the timing .020 on that new crank and it should give you 35-38* overall advance for a nice burn. We have quality fuel in the UK and Ireland, so I wouldn't worry bout detonation. Hell, I saw 102 and 98 octane at the pumps in places in the UK. 95 is our minimum here. And, personally, I think you get far more torque from good ignition advance than good squish here. On a chainsaw, that magical .020 squish 'efficiency' isn't as important as the timing is compared to sumfin like,say, a 125 or 250cc motorbike. Most of the year the air here is cool and dense, too. So timing is where it's at for us.

Also, since you'll have her apart, may as well look at other rebuild and upgrade threads to see if there are some easy tweaks to chunk in to her.
I would also get an aftermarket exhaust, a cheap-o chinese one without a baffle.

Some folks say the baffle adds torque, but no one has really proven it's a big difference in wood. What I do know is it causes the exhaust to heat up more right where you need it the least - at the exhaust port. And if there is any carbon build up or burnt sawdust on that side of the engine, it can cause it to shoot back in to the engine, or grind up against the piston. And carbon is very hard. I have seen many saws with baffles right at the exhaust that have damage to that side of the piston, but the intake side is perfect. So, in my mind, it's worth it for longevity not to have a baffle.

This is an aftermarket one I use that I've opened up a bit. 8 bucks:

I haven't touched my 044 myself yet - it's freezing and wet out and my hands are shaking too much. I need a diesel heater since the shed isn't plumbed for electricity. Blah.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

A quick update,

The cases are getting a powder coating, edit: not sure on time scale, there just fitting it in as it’s a non urgent job.

I’ve ordered a meteor piston with 10mm pin

New bearings and other stuffs

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Ahh, what’s the most annoying thing when trying to restore a saw.
This... you think you ordered the correct part, and when they come... it’s plastic not the original aluminium badge, and you check the ipl.. there’s no aluminium badge anymore

Or you get a new tank grommet (duck bill) and can’t fit it .it breaks..

More to come later... I’ve had a few whiskeys as it was some ones 80ith birthday...

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I ordered part 2 as there was no number for the other badge next to the blind rivets . But I needed the blind rivets and there next to the badge with no number, so I ordered them. Only to get plastic badge and not needing blind rivets..doh..

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Was reading about your 044 in the pics that you took thread,, @00wyk Umm looked a very good saw. Before the scoring... be good if you get pics and timings before I rebuild mine. I was reading, ,dare I say it jmssaws 044 and his intakes was 77 ?

I do have a few more questions.. as I’ve been reading a few other threads..

One being the tank vent..what to do..

Anyhow I’ve got dinner on 5he go and must get there before it burns

 

[00wyk]

77 is a big # for an 044. His must be ported. I think most the stock 10mm numbers I have seen here have been in the 73* range for intake and 100-101 for exhaust with BD in the 17-18* range. I'll degree mine when I have it apart. I recall Randy once telling me that 044's like blow down, tho.
Since I got the 288 running, I've been using it for everything to break it in before I leave it on the estate to it's fate. So my 044 is still in the shed.
I'll post a vid of the 288 if it ever stops raining.

ETA - Here's a quote I have from the Monkey from another thread on another forum:


These are the finished numbers after port and machine work:

Compression: 185psi
Exhaust: 162° - 99°atdc
Transfers: 19° BD - 118°atdc
Intake: 152° - 76°atdc

That's machined, so don't forget the entire duration for the exhaust will be a few degrees more than if you simply port it without hogging out a new squish band. Having said that, I think the top of the piston at BDC cuts off the exhaust timing before the port does.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Link to jms 044 porting, and vids
http://opeforum.com/threads/10mm-044-build-port.4725/page-3

 

[00wyk]

Link to jms 044 porting, and vids
http://opeforum.com/threads/10mm-044-build-port.4725/page-3

Yeah that thing runs strong. I might go aggressive with a newish 440, but the 10mm is a fairly rare breed nowadays. I will likely only clean up the cylinder and maybe widen the intake a touch, remove the lip on the bottom transfers, and match the exhaust port to the muffler.

I'll def get the timing numbers since I am fairly sure I have a Mahle late 10mm. These appear to be even more rare than the k$ 10mm's. Mine has no markings on top like Kolbenschmidt do.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

In the jms thread he used a meteor piston. And there were talk of needing to shim the piston and bearing, so it did not wonder to far.
I 'm hoping this has been remedy with the newer piston and with the one that’s on the way to me.
I shall be checking the pin to crown height. As well as hogging out the windows a bit.

I'm wondering what difference a carb makes. And if the jet is bigger in some builds..
with the 461 thread, mastermind says to drill the high jet a bit, i can't remember exactly what size, although I was conservative in mine by keeping a bit smaller.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Some parts have arrived. I was spendy, I got a few other things for other saws. Inc those orange things (top right 2nd pic) and the updated fuel tank breather for the 02\200 I’m now wondering if it will fit the 044.

I tried to fit one of those orange things in the 044 tank. But was not having any luck.. so I gave up..
Here's the eye candy.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I still haven’t worked out what the + + + means on cylinders...? Mine has 2 ++ on the side. None on the top.

 

[00wyk]

Doesn't yours say MAHLE on it as well? The top looks similar to mine. Only mine is an 'A' branded one.

Mustang Mike and a few others have used the meteor piston without shims with no issues.
I have that meteor piston, and I'll measure the gap difference if any. If the end of the cage is wide enough and can't sneak out in to it, it's unlikely to cause issues.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Yeh mine says mahle.

that thread, there were a mahle and a KS side by side, posted by junkman ...

You can see the base thickness difference,,, I guess yours has been cut but, you should still be able to work out which it is... seems Ks put the +++ on the top and mahle on the side .

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I'm adding this link. About the meteor slug ...

http://opeforum.com/threads/price-check-10mm-044-piston.16807/#post-879942

 

[Wonkydonkey]

The postie has been, I also got a call from the powder coating peeps, so I will pick it up later today

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I know it's not everyone colour, I will still have the orange covers as well as a normal tank and handle, so should still be able to find it. Lol.

I know there’s a few issues, with this paint job. I'm not sure why one side of the oil tank was not painted, but it was there 1st time doing a chainsaw case

 

[huskyboy]

I know it's not everyone colour, I will still have the orange covers as well as a normal tank and handle, so should still be able to find it. Lol.

I know there’s a few issues, with this paint job. I'm not sure why one side of the oil tank was not painted, but it was there 1st time doing a chainsaw case
View attachment 210613 View attachment 210612

Probably because they didn’t want to powder the bearing pocket. The other side still had the old bearing masking off that area.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I just weighed the piston with rings as the oem are still on and one is stuck in. I'm guessing the oem would be about 1 or 2g heavier, as it’s thinner on the exhaust side and lost abit at the bottom.

Oem 74g. Pin 12g
Meteor 83g Pin 13g

At a quick glance, but no measurements taken yet, The pin to crown height looks the same, although I have not removed the carbon on the oem. the overall height looks the same.
The skirts are the same width, except the meteor has those wings. Also the windows are smaller on the meteor

 

[qurotro]

I know it's not everyone colour, I will still have the orange covers as well as a normal tank and handle, so should still be able to find it. Lol.

I know there’s a few issues, with this paint job. I'm not sure why one side of the oil tank was not painted, but it was there 1st time doing a chainsaw case
View attachment 210613 View attachment 210612

Hm... Why not paint them orange?