Someone may mistakenly think it’s a hooskyHm... Why not paint them orange?
That's all in what you want your power band at lower the intake and your power band will move up but you will loose a little bit of torque down low so if you plan on running a bar 28" to 32" I would leave the intake alone other than make it a smidge wider but note this if you do a base gasket delete it's going to lower the intake a little bit which is not a big deal it's not moving it down to much.Some more bananas for fruit box in the link below, I’m trying to get my head around the intake, leave it at stock or lower it a little...
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/sthil-044-transfer-height.209978/
Yea that's a tun of gap there is the steps in the rig ends for the location pins or are the ring ends flat at the end top and bottom of the ring??Thanks for making it a lot clearer, @MG porting. there’s more than one way to do things and some things you do you can't undo so easily .
So it’s bearing fitting time in the cases soon, there in the freezer now..
In the meantime, I pulled the lower unstuck ring off the old trashed piston. I wanted to see if the trans ports were even etc. However I can’t believe how this saw ran at all with a ring gap of this size .. 0.0965 ish
View attachment 210938
Wow ether them old rings have a million hours on them or they were garbage from the get go.Just for giggles. Two pics .
I think everyone can figure out the new (left) and old(right) 2nd pic new on top
View attachment 210940
View attachment 210941 (
A saw usually vibrates a bit more with a heavier piston from my experiences. I bet if you cleaned the flash out of the windows it’ll be darned close to oem weight...
Umm, Fly wheels need to be balanced. That’s why they have them drilled holes in the back. And I thought they helped with torque..
It’s a bit like a car with and unbalanced wheel,, hit a speed and the wheel wobbles till you get passed it or slow down a bit.
I think pistons are a bit more laxed, but could be wrong
While I’m here, I’ve been looking at other threads here and around.
One thing that has come up with these saws, is if you change out the air filter to the HD filter they run better... so much better... one would think that the arctic filter I have would work well. As do other winter/arctic do.
However, I think I see the bottle neck in this air filter setup to carb components.
In the pic below the spit back/baffle (that don’t really happen in this 72* saw) is the bottle neck..as it fits more snuggly than any other saw that I’ve seen...?
View attachment 211002
Run better, how so?
It will run strong with those timing numbers.I got the bearings in the cases the other night. The cases were in the oven (gas mark4)
Bearings and crank in freezer over night, I took the pto side out first. While wearing chainsaw gloves I located and held the oil pump in place, then dropped the bearing in. After a few mins I made sure the bearing had warmed enough to not move. The case & bearing went back in the oven.
I did the flywheel wheel side, but the bearing took longer to warm and stay in place, it’s not as a tight fit as the pto side. Anyhow case and bearing went in the oven
15mins later out came the crank from the freezer, I got the flywheel side out from the heat. The crank dropped in place. Gasket was fitted, case screws were on hand, then the pto side came out and fitted very easily. I secured the 2 half’s with the screws and made sure the crank was centred. One tap from the brass hammer and all was well
I took the timing on two different occasions, to be sure and got the squish this time.
View attachment 211396
Open. ——— Close
Exhaust 103/4.——-257
Int. 71\2.———-72
Trans. 122.———-233
Squish 19 thou on one side and 17.5 thou on the other
The squish was a bit thin on one side and would like to take it again after cleaning the carbon off, although there was not a lot in the top of the cylinder, also i had to use the old wrist pin bearing. I’m still waiting for a new wrist pin bearing.