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Dub11

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MustangMike

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I am not the expert, but I agree with clean up the transfer, then give it a look. If the scratch is small, and below the Ex port, it will not hurt compression, but may slightly reduce case compression. Likely, from a very small scratch, the impact will be so small you will not notice it.

I have had 2 saws with "less than perfect" cylinders, and both ran very well and did not implode.
 

MG porting

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How does one remove transfer? Hopefully lean or str8 gassed. I dont have a way to check seals yet. Everything is OEM and in really good shape. I would say just from visual it looks to be a low hr saw. All speculation of course. Besides the bad parts u seen the P&C shows all machine marks and cross hatches. Saw is BARELY missing ANY powder coat on the bottom. And beside bar oil there was not much build up of wood chips/ dust on it
Use meratic acid or how ever you spell it best to do it outside and just use a Q tip to apply it to the transfer you will have to repeat several times on that one but each time you do this give a minute to do it's job you will see it bubbling each time you apply it and have a bucket of warm soapy water to rinse it out each time and dry it out after that each time I think you get what I'm saying it takes time but it can save you a lot of money. And try not to get that stuff on the bare aluminum of the cylinder like the ports just apply it the bad transfer spot. Hope this helps I'll give the right spelling on it in a few. Lol
 

Sty57

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Better post some more pics.
Like this?.....
892e7d3c3d379ada9e1be2fdd70dec84.jpg
 

MustangMike

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I don't like using acid. I know some with knowledge can, but you can clean the transfer w/o it, and acid can ruin a cylinder fast.

I suggest you stick to Randy's video. It is what I have used for several cylinders. Takes some time, but it works.
 

MG porting

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How does one remove transfer? Hopefully lean or str8 gassed. I dont have a way to check seals yet. Everything is OEM and in really good shape. I would say just from visual it looks to be a low hr saw. All speculation of course. Besides the bad parts u seen the P&C shows all machine marks and cross hatches. Saw is BARELY missing ANY powder coat on the bottom. And beside bar oil there was not much build up of wood chips/ dust on it
IMG_20180906_080701.jpg then I would use the right size ball hone but I'm sure I'll get bashed from some for that but it works for me.
 

MG porting

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I don't like using acid. I know some with knowledge can, but you can clean the transfer w/o it, and acid can ruin a cylinder fast.

I suggest you stick to Randy's video. It is what I have used for several cylinders. Takes some time, but it works.
Lol. I want to say something but I won't become I do like you're stile of thinking!!! :p:risas3:
 

MG porting

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I got thick skin, and like your posts, so speak your mind. I have seen acid used effectively by others, but it scares me and I go the slow route to be a bit safer.
Witch is OK every one has there own way its all good. I've got some good experience with the acid way and you are right you got to be careful with the stuff or it off to buy a know cylinder that's why I do a little at a time nothing wrong doing it your way nether. :beer-toast1:
 

JohnnyBlade

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View attachment 140221 then I would use the right size ball hone but I'm sure I'll get bashed from some for that but it works for me.
Prob not the right terminology but i have a "3 finger flat stone hone" from when i was building the 440 for the '72 Dart. Do they work the same as a ball hone for removing transfer? Id have to check to see if it even fits in the cylinder but i do remember i have one.
 

MG porting

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Prob not the right terminology but i have a "3 finger flat stone hone" from when i was building the 440 for the '72 Dart. Do they work the same as a ball hone for removing transfer? Id have to check to see if it even fits in the cylinder but i do remember i have one.
Noooo. Do not use that. Lol a ball hone to fit that cylinder won't cost much
 
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