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kingOFgEEEks

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Each axle has there strong and weak points! The dana 60/70 has the best possi in my opinion, if you get 35 spline axels in the hd Dana 60 its a great all around axle. The 14 bolt with the gov-loc is a joke/I ruined mine doing donuts! The axle itself is fantastic with bearing support for the pinion and side adjusters, the factory 35 spine axle shafts are stout so is the ring gear, the possi is no good! Lol there is aftermarket help for that. I have never had a 9” but you can buy anything you can imagine for one! Lol

Run what you brung or build what you want/need!

True. My 14FF is open rear, so I'm the king of 1 wheel peels. But, you can't break it. Believe me, I should have a few times.
 

srcarr52

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Each axle has there strong and weak points! The dana 60/70 has the best possi in my opinion, if you get 35 spline axels in the hd Dana 60 its a great all around axle. The 14 bolt with the gov-loc is a joke/I ruined mine doing donuts! The axle itself is fantastic with bearing support for the pinion and side adjusters, the factory 35 spine axle shafts are stout so is the ring gear, the possi is no good! Lol there is aftermarket help for that. I have never had a 9” but you can buy anything you can imagine for one! Lol

Run what you brung or build what you want/need!

Gov locks are weak. The one in my AMA on my dmax is toast!
 
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I need suggestion on how to remove broken bolts from aluminum. I have a Kawasaki 680D with a head bolt broken in the block (pretty sure its been broken since factory install) and 3 broken bolts in an Exmark blade spindle. All broken below surface.

I have tried several different lubes, reverse drill bits, heat with torch, drilling and heat, welding a nut to the broken portion (Hobart 180 with heat turned all the way up and letting it cool appropriately) using a battery hooked to broken bolt and ground to aluminum to help break the galvanic bond..... NOTHING!!!!

Neither have enough ‘meat’ around the to support over drilling and tapping or a timesert. Suggestions?
 

Dub11

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MG porting

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Each axle has there strong and weak points! The dana 60/70 has the best possi in my opinion, if you get 35 spline axels in the hd Dana 60 its a great all around axle. The 14 bolt with the gov-loc is a joke/I ruined mine doing donuts! The axle itself is fantastic with bearing support for the pinion and side adjusters, the factory 35 spine axle shafts are stout so is the ring gear, the possi is no good! Lol there is aftermarket help for that. I have never had a 9” but you can buy anything you can imagine for one! Lol

Run what you brung or build what you want/need!
Lol yep just like saw's run which ever one makes you feel better that's what makes the world go round. :beer-toast1:
 

Onan18

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I need suggestion on how to remove broken bolts from aluminum. I have a Kawasaki 680D with a head bolt broken in the block (pretty sure its been broken since factory install) and 3 broken bolts in an Exmark blade spindle. All broken below surface.

I have tried several different lubes, reverse drill bits, heat with torch, drilling and heat, welding a nut to the broken portion (Hobart 180 with heat turned all the way up and letting it cool appropriately) using a battery hooked to broken bolt and ground to aluminum to help break the galvanic bond..... NOTHING!!!!

Neither have enough ‘meat’ around the to support over drilling and tapping or a timesert. Suggestions?


New spindle housing for the exmark, they are cheap, and you have already wasted enough labor time to have bought two. The Kawasaki is a different story, I have had success in the past using a carbide burr in a die grinder.
 

Tor R

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How does one go about changing a rod bearing? Easy? Hard?
the only one I've split was an easy one to split, I wouldnt ship a crank away for a rebuild without knowing if if the crank is worth it or not. Even in my countries there are companies who rebuild a crank, isnt expensive either.

I understand fully sir. Need to take care of your equipment though. I do construction on the side and I most always use air and blow off saw dust etc off the tools. Try and keep them running like new.
Guys have to realize. No saw, no work. A little bit goes a long way. Take a little pride in themselves and their equipment. Or someone else's equipment. [emoji106]

I am just optimistically thinking. Lol
But I fully understand what you conveyed. [emoji482]
I clean my saws also, but I dont live by the saw.
Here in Southern Norway there are two type pro's,
Those who get paid hour by hour working for a company, most of them clean their saws regular, probleby easier since they work regular days and hours.
Then we got the pro's who get paid by the amount logs grounded each day, most of them have their own one man company and is rented by farmers on contract, there isnt any regular hours for them, it is what the weather give them, I rarerly see them clean their saws, knowing how their working days are I can understand them.
 

mettee

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I need suggestion on how to remove broken bolts from aluminum. I have a Kawasaki 680D with a head bolt broken in the block (pretty sure its been broken since factory install) and 3 broken bolts in an Exmark blade spindle. All broken below surface.

I have tried several different lubes, reverse drill bits, heat with torch, drilling and heat, welding a nut to the broken portion (Hobart 180 with heat turned all the way up and letting it cool appropriately) using a battery hooked to broken bolt and ground to aluminum to help break the galvanic bond..... NOTHING!!!!

Neither have enough ‘meat’ around the to support over drilling and tapping or a timesert. Suggestions?


Hit it with your purse :)
 

Dub11

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AlfA01

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I need suggestion on how to remove broken bolts from aluminum. I have a Kawasaki 680D with a head bolt broken in the block (pretty sure its been broken since factory install) and 3 broken bolts in an Exmark blade spindle. All broken below surface.

I have tried several different lubes, reverse drill bits, heat with torch, drilling and heat, welding a nut to the broken portion (Hobart 180 with heat turned all the way up and letting it cool appropriately) using a battery hooked to broken bolt and ground to aluminum to help break the galvanic bond..... NOTHING!!!!

Neither have enough ‘meat’ around the to support over drilling and tapping or a timesert. Suggestions?

Check out the boat motor forums. Them dudes got some pretty good info for seized bolts in aluminum.

IIRC, there was a rash of Merc's that had dissimilar metal corrosion between SS bolts and aluminum heads and blocks. Resulted in a lot of broken bolts.
 
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