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Check out the boat motor forums. Them dudes got some pretty good info for seized bolts in aluminum.

IIRC, there was a rash of Merc's that had dissimilar metal corrosion between SS bolts and aluminum heads and blocks. Resulted in a lot of broken bolts.

I am attempting to boil the spindle housing in 4 cups of water with 12 tbsp of Alum. That’s one of the tricks I found from watch/clock makers who work with brass and billet aluminum.
3B1D64F5-71D7-4550-87BE-102B08270686.jpeg
 
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AlfA01

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I am attempting to boil the spindle housing in 4 cups of water with 12 tbsp of Alum. That’s one of the tricks I found from watch/clock makers who work with brass and billet aluminum.
View attachment 140043

I've never used alum for that. Pickles and tanning hides is about it. You got go with what works....
 

Czed

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JohnnyBlade

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View attachment 140044
Been around a couple year's
Never tried one
I did use the original rapid fires in my 6 volt tt 500s
Never a failure
I seen a thread wer @Mastermind said he uses nothing but "NGK BPMR7A for all saws"so thats what im gonna do. Keeps it simple that way
 

MG porting

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Has anyone ever seen a plug like this? I havent and i dont know what it is but its in a saw i got a while ago. Just seemed interesting. View attachment 140035View attachment 140036View attachment 140037View attachment 140038
Yep they claimed that they were the best I've tried them for automotive use and I will never waste my money on them ever again and definitely never use them in a saw.......... NGK is what I found that works best in most saw's cars and trucks I put what the manufacturer recommends even if there worked over.
 

mettee

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Imma hit you with my coin purse, gonna lay the whole mess across your face and give you some Arabian sun goggles. Which isn’t really an insult since you are accustomed to having balls all about your face and mouth anyways.

At least I would have gotten the bolt out...

And I don't even know what you are talking about, you must have crayon poisoning.

We are of course kidding people. Buck and I are buds
 
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redline4

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I need suggestion on how to remove broken bolts from aluminum. I have a Kawasaki 680D with a head bolt broken in the block (pretty sure its been broken since factory install) and 3 broken bolts in an Exmark blade spindle. All broken below surface.

I have tried several different lubes, reverse drill bits, heat with torch, drilling and heat, welding a nut to the broken portion (Hobart 180 with heat turned all the way up and letting it cool appropriately) using a battery hooked to broken bolt and ground to aluminum to help break the galvanic bond..... NOTHING!!!!

Neither have enough ‘meat’ around the to support over drilling and tapping or a timesert. Suggestions?

I remove broken exhaust bolts from GM LS engines probably 5-6 times a month. I take a carbide burr to the broken bolt to clean up the rust and funk on it. If it's recessed into the head, I will build it up with weld, then place a 1/2" washer over the built up weld and weld them together. Then weld a 1/2" nut to the washer. Let it cool and turn it out.
I run into a few that are stubborn and take a few attempts, but have yet to fail to get one out.
 

J. Loe

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Whadda ya think ope?

Can this eBay carb be fixed?
6bf4157b15ce24aef59c5a5bb566fc79.jpg


Sure hope so...
 

JohnnyBlade

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image.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg So i think the 2159 cylinder is toast. The arrow is the only groove and it stops at the bottom of the exhaust port. But u can hit it with ur nail for sure. I believe the piston that bonded to the cylinder wall is what u guys refer to as transfer? Or its just shot:) this is a pro call.
 

MG porting

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View attachment 140177 View attachment 140178View attachment 140179 So i think the 2159 cylinder is toast. The arrow is the only groove and it stops at the bottom of the exhaust port. But u can hit it with ur nail for sure. I believe the piston that bonded to the cylinder wall is what u guys refer to as transfer? Or its just shot:) this is a pro call.
You can remove the transfer I would do that first before making a decision on if it junk or not. Definitely run lean bad seals or straight gassed on that one.
 

JohnnyBlade

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You can remove the transfer I would do that first before making a decision on if it junk or not. Definitely run lean bad seals or straight gassed on that one.
How does one remove transfer? Hopefully lean or str8 gassed. I dont have a way to check seals yet. Everything is OEM and in really good shape. I would say just from visual it looks to be a low hr saw. All speculation of course. Besides the bad parts u seen the P&C shows all machine marks and cross hatches. Saw is BARELY missing ANY powder coat on the bottom. And beside bar oil there was not much build up of wood chips/ dust on it
 
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