What's on your bench?

[MustangMike]

Don't use the Glaze Breaker, I used to use them on cars too.

Make a mandrel, like shown in Randy's vid, and fold some sand paper and put it in there.

Don't worry about a cross hatch pattern.

 

[tickbitintn]

I had a 372 cyl with a tiny gouge... that now has a hollow spot underneath from the acid method.

I like to use the non acid method and finish with a light ball hone (in both directions) with oil.

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[JohnnyBlade]

Noooo. Do not use that. Lol a ball hone to fit that cylinder won't cost much

Lol! It dont fit anyways. 4" slugs r a lil bigger than a 2159 piston,

 

[JohnnyBlade]

Don't use the Glaze Breaker, I used to use them on cars too.

Make a mandrel, like shown in Randy's vid, and fold some sand paper and put it in there.

Don't worry about a cross hatch pattern.

Yup gonna try and copy the video exactly. Just a lot slower. I should of kept the trashed ms210 cylinder to practice on. Dang it

 

[MustangMike]

Just be careful around the edge of your ports and you will be fine.

 

[Dub11]

Just be careful around the edge of your ports and you will be fine.

I sent him some pics of what not to do lol.

 

[JohnnyBlade]

I sent him some pics of what not to do lol.

Tru dat! LMAO!!

 

[JohnnyBlade]

Ok. So i followed all the tips i got from eveyone and did my best. heres the results. Man its hard to do Cylinder pics, the light has to be just right. The visible gouge below exhaust is the worst. If i put my dental pick in it i can slide it down the whole way and it wont jump out. There is a few way smaller lines like that above port and the pick will not follow the whole way on any of them. They r very light but still there. Seems like i got it pretty good with out rubbing plating off by ports. My concern is in the 1"- 1/1/2" pass above and below exhaust after cleaning exposed a bunch of tiny pin holes that the dental pick will fall in to.....dont know if thats trouble or not

 

[JohnnyBlade]

Tools used.
Old brass punch cleaned up
Duct tape
320 Emory
Drill
2" sanding disk holder from Harbor Freight
3M metal "brown" scotch brite
Dental pick

 

[MG porting]

Ok. So i followed all the tips i got from eveyone and did my best. heres the results. Man its hard to do Cylinder pics, the light has to be just right. The visible gouge below exhaust is the worst. If i put my dental pick in it i can slide it down the whole way and it wont jump out. There is a few way smaller lines like that above port and the pick will not follow the whole way on any of them. They r very light but still there. Seems like i got it pretty good with out rubbing plating off by ports. My concern is in the 1"- 1/1/2" pass above and below exhaust after cleaning exposed a bunch of tiny pin holes that the dental pick will fall in to.....dont know if thats trouble or notView attachment 140308View attachment 140309

If you can fiscally feel it with your fingernail good enough after getting all the transfer off I would get a different cylinder she was definitely hot.

 

[JohnnyBlade]

I knew buying the saw i was told it needed a P+C. I have a CrossPerformance waiting. This was for science and experience. What about the pin holes? Im really (i dont know why)(yes i do) thinking about putting a piston in this and seeing what happens. I dont think its horrible cuz ive seen good bores and ive seen bad bores...like real bad get a new one bad. thats y i buy cheap cheap saws to experiment with. I could be total wrong, but this is my first (hmmmm this might work) cylinder. Still open to many sugestions though. What do u think of the pin holes? What does that mean?

 

[Dub11]

I knew buying the saw i was told it needed a P+C. I have a CrossPerformance waiting. This was for science and experience. What about the pin holes? Im really (i dont know why)(yes i do) thinking about putting a piston in this and seeing what happens. I dont think its horrible cuz ive seen good bores and ive seen bad bores...like real bad get a new one bad. thats y i buy cheap cheap saws to experiment with. I could be total wrong, but this is my first (hmmmm this might work) cylinder. Still open to many sugestions though. What do u think of the pin holes? What does that mean?

Maybe something was bouncing around in there. What does the piston and rings look like?

 

[JohnnyBlade]

Maybe something was bouncing around in there. What does the piston and rings look like?

Just jacked on Exhaust side. Rest looks picture perfect. The pin holes! The damn pin holes! Lol!its like the transfer bonded and pulled off the plating. Pure speculation though

 

[dustinwilt68]

Seems likely to me that the heat lifted the plating in those places, causing your pin holes

 

[MustangMike]

Seems likely to me that the heat lifted the plating in those places, causing your pin holes

But is it useable? May still be OK, but I've never dealt with pin holes, just minor scratches.

 

[tickbitintn]

Every 359 cyl I have come across has had those pits.
The plating on those is always thin and very easy to go thru on a cleanup.

You did very well on that transfer removal.
Cyl would most likely be fine. Loss would be unnoticeable.
If it's a saw to keep I'd run it like you stole it.
If it's a flipper then ?????
AM cyl (Chinese) or meteor piston in that bore.... I'd rather the OEM with meteor....




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[dustinwilt68]

OEM husky is so cheap, no reason to consider am or a meteor

 

[usmcbuckwild]

I agree with @tickbitintn; if you are keeping the saw for yourself just toss a Meteor with a Caber ring in it and run the hell out of it. Since that cylinder is already less than optimal, i would start experimenting with port work on it.

 

[tickbitintn]

They respond well to porting.
Hopefully you don't have one of the cat mufflers.

With removable trans covers you don't need a 90° handpiece either.

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[huskyboy]

+2 I agree, meteor and run the chit out of it. When it fails... a excuse to rebuild it from the ground up and with a oem 357xp cylinder.