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Sawdust Man

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Evening guys.

Did up a few blades the last couple days, kinda getting it figured out.

The setter is definitely going to take some practice, but I've got it down to about 7 minutes per blade at this point without trying overly hard.
It seems to be doing a pretty good job and is fairly consistent, I did over-bend a couple teeth out of a half dozen blades, but I just pushed em back with a rod and reset em.
Right now I'm trying to get the stop adjusted so I can just squeeze it all the way and have it turn out right...... I have my doubts it can work that way, due to inconsistencies in the blade metal....but possibly it'll be good enough.
So far, when I try it that way a few teeth per blade just won't bend far enough... probably not a big deal since a few under-set teeth won't screw with the finish of the cut like an over-set tooth can.... least wise that's my assumption.

The grinder is very slow.....but that's okay, because once you get it setup right it does it's own thing, and a guy can go do something else for 10-15 minutes.

The auto-kill thing you stick on the blade doesn't inspire much confidence, so I just work on something nearby so I can babysit it.

Also, going to have to file the cam a bit more because I'm seeing micro inconsistencies in the gullet that I don't like.
They say that can cause blades to crack due to it giving them a place to start cracking.....idk, but I figured it won't hurt to make it better.

Haven't done any more sawing with the resharpened blades.....that's next.... maybe tomorrow.
 

Sawdust Man

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Talked to woodmizer today for about 5 minutes regarding a batch of blades I bought last spring that were cracking / breaking way too early.
The guy at MO, Woodmizer was very helpful, and warranted me a new box of blades.....

Screenshot_20231201-174737~2.png
 

Sawdust Man

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I ran a couple of my sharpened blades today....
The first one was pretty unsatisfactory all around, I'm thinking I didn't take enough material off the points to get a good edge.... maybe...
Number two preformed much better... about like a new blade, so that was encouraging.
I'm getting some scratches... assuming I've got an over set tooth....not terrible, but not up to my standards of acceptability either.

I've got some more logs needing cut tomorrow, so more testing & learning.
IMG_20231201_170851.jpgIMG_20231201_164701.jpg
 

Sawdust Man

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Ran two more of my resharpened blades today.
First one cut great for 8 cuts and broke....😡gotta inspect em closer for cracks before sharpening.....
Second one was pretty good.... not great, but I got a respectable amount cut with it before it was done.

Planning to sharpen more next week.....very meticulously......and see if I can make them closer to excellent.
I was sawing big nasty stuff today, so it didn't really matter that the cuts we sometimes sub-par.IMG_20231202_135745.jpgIMG_20231202_140931.jpgIMG_20231202_144245.jpgIMG_20231202_153517.jpgIMG_20231202_153654.jpg
 

Fleethirte

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I’m looking at a bandsaw mill this tax return season. Would you recommend the Woodland mill after your experience on it? @Mastermind
 

Mastermind

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I’m looking at a bandsaw mill this tax return season. Would you recommend the Woodland mill after your experience on it? @Mastermind
Absolutely. Just keep in mind that it is a manual mill with several shortcomings.

Guide blocks on the band rather than wheels. Not a problem really, just have to be vigilant about adjustments. The area between the blade and the frame of the saw is about 6". If you have a 16" cant, you cannot split it at 8". In these situations, I take it down to 14" then take 6" off the top and make 1x6s, and 1x8s. As far as the build quality of the mill, it has been very good.
 

Sawdust Man

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Not just for the HP. The 126 has better log dogs, and an adjustable blade guide.

I have the 9.5 HP engine on the 122, and I've never felt like it needed more power.
I have 25hp and wish I had 35hp....but, I'm making sawdust for a living.....

Adjustable blade guide is a big plus.
 

Mastermind

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I have 25hp and wish I had 35hp....but, I'm making sawdust for a living.....

Adjustable blade guide is a big plus.
This hobby mill I've got would be hard to make a living with. But, it is perfectly capable of making very good lumber. I've sawn several thousand board feet so far, and only have 53 hours on the meter.
 

Sawdust Man

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This hobby mill I've got would be hard to make a living with. But, it is perfectly capable of making very good lumber. I've sawn several thousand board feet so far, and only have 53 hours on the meter.

I wasn't knocking the smaller mill at all, they're slick machines regardless of hp or size/features...and at around $2500 it's a heck of a value!
I ran a Norwood mill with 14hp and it did fine for a hobby/ farm saw.

Another factor is what species of wood a guy is planning to mill, if you are primarily cutting smaller softwood you don't need as much power as you do when sawing all this stinking hard oak & hickory.
 

Mastermind

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I wasn't knocking the smaller mill at all, they're slick machines regardless of hp or size/features...and at around $2500 it's a heck of a value!
I ran a Norwood mill with 14hp and it did fine for a hobby/ farm saw.

Another factor is what species of wood a guy is planning to mill, if you are primarily cutting smaller softwood you don't need as much power as you do when sawing all this stinking hard oak & hickory.
I've been sawing red oak 1x5 lately. Planning on making tongue and groove flooring. I'll air dry it for a few months then see if my Mennonite friends can get it in a kiln.
 

Sawdust Man

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I've been sawing red oak 1x5 lately. Planning on making tongue and groove flooring. I'll air dry it for a few months then see if my Mennonite friends can get it in a kiln.
Cool, remember to use plenty stickers.

Red oak saws tolerably..... post oak.....just make firewood...I hate that stuff!
 
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