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legdelimber

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Blade welder. The first seriously large company that I ever worked for had blade welders mounted on the bigger (vertical) saws.
No matter what dept you were in, one of your trial/probation period things was making and repairing a couple of blades.
Was interesting how most folks could get a weld together. But the importance of getting the blade joint straight in the clamps seemed to escape many of them.
Cutting a tight radius with your blade usually thinned the herd though. Snap!
By now, I'd expect lasers and water jets have pushed those band saws into the catch-all building or maybe a toolmakers building.
 

Sawdust Man

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Blade welder. The first seriously large company that I ever worked for had blade welders mounted on the bigger (vertical) saws.
No matter what dept you were in, one of your trial/probation period things was making and repairing a couple of blades.
Was interesting how most folks could get a weld together. But the importance of getting the blade joint straight in the clamps seemed to escape many of them.
Cutting a tight radius with your blade usually thinned the herd though. Snap!
By now, I'd expect lasers and water jets have pushed those band saws into the catch-all building or maybe a toolmakers building.
Interesting, thanks for sharing.

I've never attempted to weld a blade, just buy em in bulk for the sawmill.


Like so......IMG_20231014_103511.jpg
 

legdelimber

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I used to do a little work for a guy who was in Architectural salvage. Lots of re-sawn lumber there.
Probably 25 years ago, I got to met an older gent who had a really nice band mill setup. He reground and reset tooth angles, etc. Very nice workshop.
The ,manual type, tooth grinder was not much different from using saw chain grinder.
He had jigs for setting the tooth angles, all manual equipment.
Similar to sharpening a chain. Slide through clamping jig but using a dial indicator to gauge the tooth offsets as you pressed them sideways with a hand lever.
A torch head station setup to heat treat blade teeth.

One of the biggest pains with re-claimed wood was the ceramic wiring tubes broken off in deep holes. Murder on a band blade to hit 'em.
18" thick beams can hide some trash in the middle and unfortunately no practical way to detect them like we did for metal. Just have to probe out every hole you could find. Drilling hammer and a steel rod. Keep the tip of the rod dressed square or it could skip past smaller bits.
I had strait shank punches for smaller bolt drive outs. Actually kept a slight dimple ground into the tips of those to keep them on the bolts.
 
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