TYM and Mahindra Tractors...Got a John Deere Instead!

[Dustin4185]

We always used the clutch when stopping/taking off. I always operated like the reverser on a 400 Dozer. Throttle down, move shuttle shift, throttle back up. The manual should explain the proper procedure. Does it have a foot throttle? Ours did, but some didn't. That almost negates the shuttle shift.

On a side note, I noticed it was sold to a school district. That's the reason the price was a little higher, they always take advantage of the government, lol!

I really like that tractor.

 

[XP_Slinger]

We always used the clutch when stopping/taking off. I always operated like the reverser on a 400 Dozer. Throttle down, move shuttle shift, throttle back up. The manual should explain the proper procedure. Does it have a foot throttle? Ours did, but some didn't. That almost negates the shuttle shift.

On a side note, I noticed it was sold to a school district. That's the reason the price was a little higher, they always take advantage of the government, lol!

I really like that tractor.

Thanks man. And yeah the dealer has to make up for the tax exemption lol! I’ve been operating mine as you described with the throttle pedal. Works great, gets moving quickly after shifting the reverser from forward to reverse and so on. I asked because my tractor doesn’t really want to take off with the clutch at idle...am I setting the throttle too low for the hydro to engage the drive when I release the clutch? I’m going to check my clutch adjustment in a little while. The clutch works good for stopping, it’s just the taking off that I haven’t quite figured out yet.

Oddly, neither one of the manuals I have go through and tell you step by step how to operate the drive system. I would’ve expected the dummy proof instructions in the operators manual.

 

[Dustin4185]

Ours took off like a regular gear tractor. Check your adjustment, if that's not it, the throwout bearing on some has a grease fitting on them. DO NOT OVER-LUBRICATE IT. It will sling grease on the clutch, then it will definitely slip.

Worse case scenario, the clutch may be going.

How does it do once it is warm?

 

[XP_Slinger]

Ours took off like a regular gear tractor. Check your adjustment, if that's not it, the throwout bearing on some has a grease fitting on them. DO NOT OVER-LUBRICATE IT. It will sling grease on the clutch, then it will definitely slip.

Worse case scenario, the clutch may be going.

How does it do once it is warm?

Won’t know til later today. I mostly used the reverser lever when running the tractor yesterday. If it is the clutch it’s not a big deal. The clutch is definitely not slipping though. Here’s the only thing in my manuals about the reverser, pretty minimal info.

 

[jakethesnake]

I’d clutch her even though you don’t technically have to.

 

[Dustin4185]

It may be due to the hydro side of the power reverser. Could be valves sticking, fluid is old, fluid is wrong, etc. If you change the hydraulic fluid, PLEASE use one that meets JD specs. The wet brakes with thank you and you will thank yourself when the brake linings don't come off!

 

[XP_Slinger]

Got to play with the tractor a little today. It’s 35F and raining here so I figured I’d see what it could do pushing wet heavy undisturbed snow...I’m impressed. I’m not all that fast at running the loader yet, I’ve never had one so try not to laugh too hard lol

 

[jakethesnake]

Looked good. She is a noisy lil rascal

 

[XP_Slinger]

With help from my younger brother @skidder I found the source of a strange chattering noise at idle. This is the original accessory hydraulic pump coupler found on the front of the crank. It’s supposed to have 2 round holes on each side and rubber grommets on the drive pins that ride in it. Needless to say, but the rubber is long gone and this is the product of running for who knows how long with the steal drive pins directly driving on the aluminum coupler clamp. Very grateful to have found it before it failed, likely would’ve taken the radiator out.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Ours took off like a regular gear tractor. Check your adjustment, if that's not it, the throwout bearing on some has a grease fitting on them. DO NOT OVER-LUBRICATE IT. It will sling grease on the clutch, then it will definitely slip.

Worse case scenario, the clutch may be going.

How does it do once it is warm?

My clutch is working fine. Just had to get used to how it engages. Ran perfect for a couple hours today. I’m really liking the reverser feature.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Looked good. She is a noisy lil rascal

Yes sir it is! Them old diesels like to make some noise..ha ha!

 

[Only the Tony]

Is this what the coupler looks like?
5 Half clamp part number is R38348
3 Bushing AR49427
2 Screws R34360

 

[XP_Slinger]

View attachment 111478
Is this what the coupler looks like?
5 Half clamp part number is R38348
3 Bushing AR49427
2 Screws R34360

Yes sir that’s the one. I ordered a kit to repair mine, has everything pictured in it, including the clamp halves. Actually it doesn’t have the pump drive adapter (item #1) but that’s no problem because mine isn’t damaged.

 

[concretegrazer]

Nice rig! Does the reverser only work in low range on it?

 

[XP_Slinger]

Nice rig! Does the reverser only work in low range on it?

Thanks! I think so, Haven’t tried it in high range, I used the clutch for that when driving it home.

 

[Only the Tony]

Yes sir that’s the one. I ordered a kit to repair mine, has everything pictured in it, including the clamp halves. Actually it doesn’t have the pump drive adapter (item #1) but that’s no problem because mine isn’t damaged.

Nice that they make a kit for it. Hard to get used to having to buy a $100 seal kit for a cylinder and then only use a third of the seals in the kit. Been there too many times.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Nice that they make a kit for it. Hard to get used to having to buy a $100 seal kit for a cylinder and then only use a third of the seals in the kit. Been there too many times.

Yeah that always sucks. I’ll be there soon, one of my boom cylinders has a small leak which I’ll get rebuilt in the fall. Not even going to attempt it myself, I’ve been down that road and don’t like buying the seals twice when one rolls and gets cut. The chrome on all the cylinders looks darn near perfect so the rebuild shouldn’t be to expensive.

I wanna go play with the tractor some more...but I can’t because of the coupler. Oh well, better to wait and fix it rather than buying a John Deere radiator that I’m sure is north of $1,000.

 

[Dustin4185]

The cylinders aren't bad on those. Biggest issue is getting them apart. Plenty of aftermarket parts available that are quality pieces. I can't believe that coupler lasted that long without the rubber bushings!

 

[XP_Slinger]

The cylinders aren't bad on those. Biggest issue is getting them apart. Plenty of aftermarket parts available that are quality pieces. I can't believe that coupler lasted that long without the rubber bushings!

I can’t believe it’s lasted that long either. The old timer I got it from said “that noise is just how they are, it’s made that sound since I’ve owned it.” He wasn’t trying to screw me, he just didn’t know any better and neither did I. He bought the tractor in 2011, so it went at least 7 years like that. Who knows how long before he owned it. I’m not terribly worried about the cylinder, I’ll get her rebuilt in the fall unless it decides to crap out sooner.

 

[XP_Slinger]

It’s cleaning up nice. Yes, I clean my tractors and I’m not ashamed of it...LOL!