''Twas the night before the SOLMAR!

[Deets066]

Not sure what ya mean. 7910 studs

Didn't know if you were putting different studs in to run a different mount bar

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

Didn't know if you were putting different studs in to run a different mount bar

O no. It had 2 different studs in it and they were jacked up. So I just got new ones. Lol.

 

[jmssaws]

Saw sounds good carl.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

Saw sounds good carl.

Thank you.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

Ok so I got all the little things fixed. Now it will idle without the chain spinning. Lol. And the bar bolts up much nicer.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

So here is one of my weaknesses. Carbs. I've been trying to learn. But man. There a black magic of there own. But all carbs I've tried and tweaked have the same issue. I'll explain. Some of you that got to run it at the gtg may have not noticed this. But here we go

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

The saw has a slower throttle response. That I have most fixed. A 30-35 carb by poleman has seemed to help that a lot. Has good throttle response now. Now matter where I tweak the carbs. From a stock 665 solo carb to a 30-40 by poleman. If you let the saw idle for 10 sec it has a bog. Bought like a lot of your stock saws do. But I don't like it. Lol. If ya let off. Move cuts and hit it again it's great. Set it down. Roll a piece around. It's gonna bog. A lot like the 550xps do.

 

[jmssaws]

I'm all thumbs with carbs,I usually call @srcarr52 and he'll tell me what to do.lol

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

That all said. That's why I'm carb playing. As the 665/6421 carbs have a smaller low jet. So ya think that would fix it. Nope. Actually does better on a modified carb running a bigger low jet.

Do I have your minds spinning yet. Lol.

 

[jmssaws]

The saw has a slower throttle response. That I have most fixed. A 30-35 carb by poleman has seemed to help that a lot. Has good throttle response now. Now matter where I tweak the carbs. From a stock 665 solo carb to a 30-40 by poleman. If you let the saw idle for 10 sec it has a bog. Bought like a lot of your stock saws do. But I don't like it. Lol. If ya let off. Move cuts and hit it again it's great. Set it down. Roll a piece around. It's gonna bog. A lot like the 550xps do.

Rich or lean bog or can you tell?
Sounds like it's pooling fuel up somewhere

 

[jmssaws]

I had to make a butterfly for the carb on my 562 to fix the bog.

 

[srcarr52]

The saw has a slower throttle response. That I have most fixed. A 30-35 carb by poleman has seemed to help that a lot. Has good throttle response now. Now matter where I tweak the carbs. From a stock 665 solo carb to a 30-40 by poleman. If you let the saw idle for 10 sec it has a bog. Bought like a lot of your stock saws do. But I don't like it. Lol. If ya let off. Move cuts and hit it again it's great. Set it down. Roll a piece around. It's gonna bog. A lot like the 550xps do.

550xp's shouldn't bog, they have an air bleed adjustment to tune that out. If it has a lean bog, then turn the air bleed out so the computer can give it more fuel at idle and stay at the idle speed. On a 562xp you have to cut the divot in the butterfly larger.

On regular carbs pay attention to where you have the butterfly adjusted to get a good idle. Depending on the carb they have 1-3 idle fuel holes, you want only 1 hole to the engine side of the butterfly (low pressure region), if you have more you probably need more air bleed. If the butterfly is open too far, then it starts to put more of the idle fuel holes in the low pressure region behind the butterfly which allows the carb to supply much more fuel. Thus you have to set the low side needle leaner than intended to get a good idle because extra fuel is coming from the other idle holes that normally wouldn't be in the low pressure region. Then when you crack the throttle the carb can't supply enough fuel to make it through the transition zone from the low speed circuit to the high and the engine struggles to accelerate (bog).

Hope that helps!

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

550xp's shouldn't bog, they have an air bleed adjustment to tune that out. If it has a lean bog, then turn the air bleed out so the computer can give it more fuel at idle and stay at the idle speed. On a 562xp you have to cut the divot in the butterfly larger.

On regular carbs pay attention to where you have the butterfly adjusted to get a good idle. Depending on the carb they have 1-3 idle fuel holes, you want only 1 hole to the engine side of the butterfly (low pressure region), if you have more you probably need more air bleed. If the butterfly is open too far, then it starts to put more of the idle fuel holes in the low pressure region behind the butterfly which allows the carb to supply much more fuel. Thus you have to set the low side needle leaner than intended to get a good idle because extra fuel is coming from the other idle holes that normally wouldn't be in the low pressure region. Then when you crack the throttle the carb can't supply enough fuel to make it through the transition zone from the low speed circuit to the high and the engine struggles to accelerate (bog).

Hope that helps!

I'm gonna have to read this like 10 times to make it sink in. Lol.

 

[srcarr52]

I'm gonna have to read this like 10 times to make it sink in. Lol.

Going back over your thread I realized how much you've mucked with so other things that can make a saw just lazy on acceleration are:
*Not enough crankcase compression.
*Too much intake timing, kills crankcase compression.
*Late ignition timing, the saw will also run really hot as fuel will still be burning in the exhaust.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

Going back over your thread I realized how much you've mucked with so other things that can make a saw just lazy on acceleration are:
*Not enough crankcase compression.
*Too much intake timing, kills crankcase compression.
*Late ignition timing, the saw will also run really hot as fuel will still be burning in the exhaust.

Lol. I think your right on on the cranckcase compression.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

Going back over your thread I realized how much you've mucked with so other things that can make a saw just lazy on acceleration are:
*Not enough crankcase compression.
*Too much intake timing, kills crankcase compression.
*Late ignition timing, the saw will also run really hot as fuel will still be burning in the exhaust.

I killed the first cylinder with to much intake and trans. Lol.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

I'll be there first one to admit. That carbs are one of my biggest weaknesses. Understanding them is part of the battle. I'm learning slowly but I'm years behind guys like Srcarr and poleman. I will get a better understanding of them.

 

[Mastermind]

Practice makes perfect.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

Practice makes perfect.

Amen. But knowledgeable help to guide you in the right direction is priceless.