Yikes. Sorry about the bar. Is the tip replaceable?
For what its worth ,in my experience a longer bar bores better ,and does not kick back as much as a shorter one.Yup. Tsumura. Already sent a message to Julian about getting one.
I knew going into it that bar hates plunge cuts. I dont know why, but it starts hopping. My Stihl bars dont do it, but the Tsumura is 24" and my next Stihl is 20". I wanted the extra length for this.
For what its worth ,in my experience a longer bar bores better ,and does not kick back as much as a shorter one.
Sup sir.Harrumph
Harrumph
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sup sir.
When the winds blowing ,try doing the back cut first ,and less face cut depth ,do about 2/3 of the tree width back cut first ,set 3 wedges with that plumb axe ,do your face then pound it over,cant set back on your bar this way and you control direction still.do you use the sights on the saw to see where it's gonna go ?
Pulled a bit of fiber on this one but it was moving funny with the wind & I wasn’t going to chase this one & risk getting mashed: when it started to go I made tracks.
Strap for the goofy cat face just above my face cut & also cause some of the flightiness.
2nd strap tree. Had to bust out the Steels on this one because I left a Heavy hinge on the offside: as you can see, the inside was compromised & the valuables were to the right.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
When the winds blowing ,try doing the back cut first ,and less face cut depth ,do about 2/3 of the tree width back cut first ,set 3 wedges with that plumb axe ,do your face then pound it over,cant set back on your bar this way and you control direction still.do you use the sights on the saw to see where it's gonna go ?
When the winds blowing ,try doing the back cut first ,and less face cut depth ,do about 2/3 of the tree width back cut first ,set 3 wedges with that plumb axe ,do your face then pound it over,cant set back on your bar this way and you control direction still.do you use the sights on the saw to see where it's gonna go ?
Nice work sir , the bigger back cut helps with wedging and direction control ,i have not had good luck wedging with half the cut being the face ,get less lift with the wedges and no where for the bar to fit when cutting. Aka sacrificial wedge does not get ruined also.Randymac told me about this so credit for him on this cut.Did it today Hondaman.
2/3rds?
I was doing half on smaller stuff: ergo the sacrificial wedge. That would probably be easier.
Thank You Brian.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Hey Brain me man.Nice work sir , the bigger back cut helps with wedging and direction control ,i have not had good luck wedging with half the cut being the face ,get less lift with the wedges and no where for the bar to fit when cutting. Aka sacrificial wedge does not get ruined also.Randymac told me about this so credit for him on this cut.
Hey Brain me man.
Seems to have been more than a few statements in this thread about a deeper undercut being an advantage in wedging as in it is much 'easier'? Well It will tip over quicker if weigh is a none issues. In the case above mentioned then one could use a shorter and thicker wedge and would be less in the way and really tip over fast. That could be considered 'easier to a person? If that's what they mean then it's easier...er..um..'easier'.
The further 'you' can possible be away from the hinge then the less the lift = the easier the lift. Those three are tied together through physics and always will be.
Brain you are right as in more back cut/less undercut = easier.
I think you mean 'less lift' due to bar or hinge getting in the way due to the wedge does not fully go in?
Look my post is not much longer than yours Brian?...I must be sick?
I hate to say it Heath...but in your young adult years your sharp brains will only earn a back seat at the big table.[emoji1417][emoji1417]
[emoji1787]
Nailed It!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I hate to say it Heath...but in your young adult years your sharp brains will only earn a back seat at the big table.
J/k
On the bright side? Woman are good with it . ..you young good lookin' bearded, cigar smokin' log fechin' SOB.
I hope things are well brother
Yes ,i like more back cut so can use the whole wedge and keep the bar in the tree to chase the cut , on say a 20-24 inch thick second growth ,if take half the material out in the face ,don't leave much room for wedges and a bar ,but i don't have to tell you that ,I like the back cut first on little guys 10 inch and under also so can get the wedge in there if need to push em a certain direction .Hey Brain me man.
Seems to have been more than a few statements in this thread about a deeper undercut being an advantage in wedging as in it is much 'easier'? Well It will tip over quicker if weigh is a none issues. In the case above mentioned then one could use a shorter and thicker wedge and would be less in the way and really tip over fast. That could be considered 'easier to a person? If that's what they mean then it's easier...er..um..'easier'.
The further 'you' can possible be away from the hinge then the less the lift = the easier the lift. Those three are tied together through physics and always will be.
Brain you are right as in more back cut/less undercut = easier.
I think you mean 'less lift' due to bar or hinge getting in the way due to the wedge does not fully go in?
Look my post is not much longer than yours Brian?...I must be sick?
Can i quote you twice ? This was a humboldt face followed by a regular back cut ,maybe 30% face cut ,left room for the wedges to go in all the way for lift ,it was a hill side so ground on other side of cut was about 8 feet down so cut it from the high side of the hill ,if i would have cut a deep face ,i would have ran out of room for pounding to get the tree to tip sideways on the hill ,this is where the wedges were when it went over ,i pounded it over with a 3 lb axe ,so there must be some math in there for lift vs speed vs something else ,or could just say the turtle was faster than the hare this time .so cut ,wedge ,cut some more pound some more ,keep cutting ,pound some more ,till it makes noise then step away and pull the saw out of the tree .Hey Brain me man.
Seems to have been more than a few statements in this thread about a deeper undercut being an advantage in wedging as in it is much 'easier'? Well It will tip over quicker if weigh is a none issues. In the case above mentioned then one could use a shorter and thicker wedge and would be less in the way and really tip over fast. That could be considered 'easier to a person? If that's what they mean then it's easier...er..um..'easier'.
The further 'you' can possible be away from the hinge then the less the lift = the easier the lift. Those three are tied together through physics and always will be.
Brain you are right as in more back cut/less undercut = easier.
I think you mean 'less lift' due to bar or hinge getting in the way due to the wedge does not fully go in?
Look my post is not much longer than yours Brian?...I must be sick?
Thank You Sir!
I’ve had to fight above my weight class for years! [emoji1787]
How goes it over there?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro