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Three Husqvarna 562xp builds, How do they stack up?

afleetcommand

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I'm already there with 550 as my OMS (old man saw) entry. Did my usual un-sophisticated mods and it bested a couple of saws that had some extensive work done to them. It can be seen in the "mini GTG October 2017" that we did several weeks ago. Not sure if Walt's OMS was ready that day or not. A good 50cc with 18" .325 can keep me in firewood for life. Granted we all have to reach for a larger saw at some point as the wood gets bigger, but a saw like that 550 would handle the majority of what I run into. Plenty for most firewood logs, and I can break down tops all day with something that light. For me the OMS target was the least weight that would cover the most ground, so that 550 or my 2150/53 both hit that sweet spot.

What do we have in our inventory of options for a "micro UOMS saw" option? Along the lines of the Dolmar PS-35? You had the UOMS thing figured out years ago....just took the rest of us a while to wind through all the woods to find the clearing.
 

afleetcommand

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Nether are that big but the 35 is smaller . They both have a easy start pull start (not like the stihl sort) high comp and no de comp. Ps-35 has a micro 2 part crank case that stays in the saw if you just want to pop the cylinder off ..(see pic )
Ps 421 is just like any other full mag case saw .
Bingo..I want one. LOL!
 

Cut4fun

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I know this 1990 K&S 262 wont receive even a muffler mod. All stock with base gasket in too. Impressed as is.
The 562 I demoed didnt impress me or the mahle cylinder decomp 262's either.
 
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Farmchuck

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That is a very tricky thing to do Walt but il take a stab at it.
Yea...I wouldn't chose Stihl 170/180 ether ..BUT !.. they will have there supporters .
If the budget is good and Bod can hook you up with a 550 then your working knowledge on those 562/560 's is a real advantage .
Efco..no real knowledge on them .
You want new, small, modern spring AV and cheeper (not 242 xp shape ).... il chuck in a curve ball for you, Dolmar ps-35 ....
you want more saw then Ps-421 . How much you want to play around with the saws might be a deciding factor but the Dolmar saws hit high comp from factory so are peppy stock ...ps 35 on left..ps 421 (we have the 420..same saw) right . All ..IMO ..of corse .
Stihl ms241?
 

Farmchuck

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Never ran one but heard postive comments about there power to weight ratio.
 

afleetcommand

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Certainly ...I just thought i would go down the "underdog...less main stream " path as a start. Thought it might take Walts fancy and tickle the interest :)

yup. the "under dog" is a part of the equation for me. Not a band wagon type. you obviously understand that part of the equation!
 

Simondo

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yup. the "under dog" is a part of the equation for me. Not a band wagon type. you obviously understand that part of the equation!
Your base line by the way is 2.3 hp....with the cat in the stainless steel can.
 

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Tor R

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Most of the times I prefer to use either 242 or 550.

For awhile ago I build one 345 from the bottom (just wanted to learn how to seal them properly) and added adjustable oil pump while I was there, thought to sell her after I was done.

Well, I liked her that much that its an keeper, decent power and trottle respond and there is hardly any vibes in her, even I do love to cut wood with my 242 there are days where a slower perfomancer is the best pick :)
 

porsche965

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I cut wood for a Tree Company on their concrete landing. From 10" up to 60". All my job to do is to block up the logs for the splitter crew. In exchange the owner brings me 3 cords or so to my home already split, just needs stacked. I block approximately 200 cord a year. Great exercise for me and really a good deal for him. And supports CAD and my hobby lol.

From 90cc saws down to 40cc saws from a collection of over 30 chainsaws I always used to grab the largest saw first and couldn't wait for the Goonie Busting ahead. By the time I got to the smaller cc saws for the smaller wood it was all about just getting done and heading home. Tired from using a much heavier saw when a lighter one would be just fine.

After 10 years of this or so I've reversed up the plan. The small saws run first and guess what was discovered? The smaller saws cut a lot more wood than once thought before needing a larger saw. Actually a lot more wood. Often 3/4s of my cutting now is with 50-60cc saws and at the end out come the big saws. So these posts on smaller chainsaws is spot on with what I'm experiencing, but without reversing my process I still would have thought bigger is better. And with an aging body it sure feels better starting out with the little guys first.
 
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RIDE-RED 350r

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I know what you mean.

Once in a while, I have to run a 394 up in the bucket when I'm taking down a tree. Not because I'm stupid and I want to, but because my employer's saw plan consists of only 4 saws, a 346XP OE with 18" bar (the saw I use up there 95% of the time), a 550XP with a 16", a 394 with 24" and a 395 with 28". I only use the 394 when I am chunking down large runners of big roadside maples to get the main stalk cut down to size for flopping. I need that bar length sometimes when the trunks get too big for the one handed finish of a straight one cut pass that I need to be able to do so I can push the chunk off in the direction I need it to go with my free hand when it is free enough to tip off the stump. Most times I can't just go around to the other side of the trunk like you would be able to on the ground. It's either much too time consuming, or not possible due to various circumstances. It's tricky and dangerous I know, but it's the nature of the work sometimes. I do NOT like running the 394 up in the bucket. But when I do, I always keep the powerhead below the top of the bucket in case it binds and kicks out, the bucket will protect me.

I have been begging the boss to get me a 562 or something along those lines that will run a 24" bar for those situations so I don't have to wrestle with that 394 up there. It's definitely a saw better suited to felling and other work on the ground. But thankfully, my 346 with 18" is all I need for 95% of the work.
 

SawSeeker

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What I like about this discussion is that guys are pointing out the different aspects of the hobby that appeal to them without finding fault with other's preferences. To people who aren't into the saw thing, saws are saws. But when you think about it there are some distinct tangents that you can focus your energy on. Old, new, stock, modded, 100cc muscle saws, 50cc screamers. 70cc work saws. Ugly saws for firewood and collector grade saws that you hate to get dirty. It's a more diversified hobby than would be apparent to those on the outside.

Modding saws is just one of them, and even when doing that, there are variations as to how sophisticated you get and how much time you can allocate to building a saw. I passed on a free lathe a couple years ago, cause I was having fun with the basic mods we were doing and didn't want to go the next step which I figured could double or triple the time involved. But it was also a matter of being happy where I was and not wanting to change it.

I think I get the most fun from the dead saw salvage "junk pile" projects that Walt and I started out with 6-7 years ago and continue to do. Stock at first, but then we began working in some mods. Saws like that Jonny "636" I mentioned earlier. It's not just how much power you can get out of a saw; sometimes it's as simple as how much work you can get out of a saw. Especially one that's been left for dead. :)

And I'm also into some of the old stuff that doesn't get much mention on this site, but I suspect there are more guys who share this interest. After my Huskys and Jonnys, I'm into the McCulloch and Homelite American classics. Have about a dozen of each. I've always read a lot of history so saw history is a natural fit for me. As you move back on the timeline to the Jonsered 70E's and Husky L77's, you are going back to an era where the Macs and Homies still outsold Husky and Stihl by a wide margin. At least once a year I like to drag out some of these saws and have a vintage cutting day. Fun to run something different and these saws have a few unique exhaust notes that sound great echoing through the woods. Walt and I are planning a day where we take some of them into the woods and get some of these classic saws on video. Better in my mind to enjoy some old saw experiences than to just tell old saw stories. :)
Looking forward to THAT video. One of my favorite saw videos is the one where you and @afleetcommand compare vintage saws to the throw away homeowner units.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
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Spike60

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What do we have in our inventory of options for a "micro UOMS saw" option? Along the lines of the Dolmar PS-35? You had the UOMS thing figured out years ago....just took the rest of us a while to wind through all the woods to find the clearing.

Are we talking current models, or anything out there? Guess we have to give this group a name, so how about "mini saws"? 35cc and less? And the debate ought to be framed around what do we want or expect "mini saws" to do..............better than other saws.

Echo has some good saws in this range with the cs-310 and cs-352 at 30 and 34 cc. Husky 543 and Stihl MS241 are lighter than the 550 and 261 yet stay above 40cc, BUT...............and you knew there'd be a "but", right? What are you giving up in power for the lighter weight?

The only saw family that is smaller than the 550/346 class that has any appeal for me is the 242 chassis. Everything else IMO gives up too much power/capability for the slight improvement you get in weight vs a good 50cc class saw. Not the case with 242's, which are a class unto themselves. :)
 

Spike60

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Looking forward to THAT video. One of my favorite saw videos is the one where you and @afleetcommand vintage saws to the throw away homeowner units.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Oh, I have been DYING to do this one for a while! Want to do an equal balance of Mac and Homelite, and the hold up has been Walt not having some good Mac examples. Makes sense as we each need to work up some saws of each brand so that we are both conversant enough on all of them for a coherent dialog on the video.

That should soon be enhanced by another scheme of ours, which is visiting some old time saw shops that have been there for ages. One, which ought to solve Walt's problem is a shop that began as a McCulloch dealership in 1947. Only about an hour from me. There is SO much Mac and Homelite stuff in this place that you literally have to climb over it. The guy who runs it is the son of the original owner and he is also a saw collector, so he speaks our language.

2 funny examples:

He was dying for a Dolmar KMS rotary. I found him one in good shape for $50, and that's what I sold it to him for. He asked 3 times, "Are you sure that's all you want for it?"

Saw a Jonsered 111S in there and wondered if it was for sale. "You should no better than to even ask."

Remember that KMS I found for you???????????

Jay is cool; gotta love 'em. :)
 

CR888

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Are we talking current models, or anything out there? Guess we have to give this group a name, so how about "mini saws"? 35cc and less? And the debate ought to be framed around what do we want or expect "mini saws" to do..............better than other saws.

Echo has some good saws in this range with the cs-310 and cs-352 at 30 and 34 cc. Husky 543 and Stihl MS241 are lighter than the 550 and 261 yet stay above 40cc, BUT...............and you knew there'd be a "but", right? What are you giving up in power for the lighter weight?

The only saw family that is smaller than the 550/346 class that has any appeal for me is the 242 chassis. Everything else IMO gives up too much power/capability for the slight improvement you get in weight vs a good 50cc class saw. Not the case with 242's, which are a class unto themselves. :)
When considering a 'mini' saw with a pro construction build our choices are very few due to the fact most 30-40cc saws of this size are made for the homeowner market. A few years ago I wanted a saw that I could pick up when my 550xp or MS261 was 'too much saw' for delimbing branches when the size got to the 12" and less. I wanted the lightest setup possible with the most power that was a significant difference in size/weight to a 50cc pro saw....and i was prepared to pay for it. After some mods, a couple of reduced weight bars I ended up spending about $600usd on a rear handle MS201 with both 12 & 14" light picco bars. Well it definately does what i wanted it to do, I can work so fast with this setup on small wood, it is super light & manuverable. I also bought a MS150 rear handle too but that saw is much better in top handle configeration. I wish there were more options in the sub 9lb size for the pro user. I had to pay dearly for what I needed.
 

Derf

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I know we’re getting sidetracked, but I think I agree with Bob on a lot of points. There’s so much work to do on the days I’m in the woods that I just want a reliable saw, it doesn’t have to be the fastest, just needs good power and a sharp chain. I can do basic mods, and I have a lathe and mill and work as a machinist, besides a right angle foredom tool to do upper transfers I can do everything else myself. I just think that the 5+ hours tearing down, measuring, degreeing, grinding, boring, testing, etc will never be gotten back by saving 2 seconds in a cut. So I can’t justify it in terms of work productivity.

Maybe for the “fun” factor some people can justify spending the money or time on it, but the best reason I see to do it is because it would allow using a smaller saw when normally I’d feel like a larger saw is necessary.

My 562xpg as a 60cc saw is about doing everything I need these days- I still have my 372xpw and 395xp, but their use is getting less and less. I love running them, but finding the wood where they are needed is getting to be more of a “for that particular job” than for a “I’ll just grab this saw as I trust it can do what I need today.”

I too am like Bob, and Walt, in that I’m looking for the ultimate old man saw. I currently love my 346xp NE, and if it ever dies I’ll jump over to a 550xpg since the 50cc weight class is an ideal weight-to-power ratio for a firewood saw. However, I think some of the best weight savings is not so much in the saw but in these new lightweight bars. The laminates are good, but the Tsumura RW / Sugihara are really nice, they just cost so much! I’m debating trying the hydraulic punch press at work to make my own. Lol.

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To go lighter, sub 50cc, I agree again with Bob: you give up a dose of power to save a little bit more in weight. I looked at some sub 50cc saws and I would consider a Stihl MS200, but I don’t love the top handle since I’m not a climber. I think they made a long body version, but I’m not sure.

Anyway, I’m digging this discussion, even if we are going off topic.
 
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