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Nice looking saws, glad you got the issue resolved!
MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread
- Thread starter Frank bierce
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That is a really nice looking saw!!
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Does anyone happen to have a Super 250 recoil assembly sitting around? I’d like to get one my my two operational.
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I think I can help with that. I'm out tomorrow but I can look on Monday.
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The starter assembly from almost any left hand start saw will work other than the SP125 and 1-40/1-50 saws. The SP125 starter will work if you change the ratchet.
Mark
Mark
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Awesome! Here’s what I’ve got. One is the regular 250, the other is a Super. I assume I can use the cover from the 250 on the super 250. Just need the bolt on recoil part.
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Those covers will be interchangeable. Some of the older saws had a different arrangement for the stop button, but even those will interchange if you do something different with the stop.
The Super Series models (44, 55, 1-7X, 1-8X, 7XX, 8XX and CP/SP) had a different style/shape flywheel housing but the LH start models all share the same starter parts except the SP125 as noted above.
Other than the 1-40 and 1-50 any of the 1-4X, 1-5X, 1-6X, 200, 250, 300, 380, 440, 450, 550, and 640 covers will be interchangeable with the stop switch changes noted.
Mark
The Super Series models (44, 55, 1-7X, 1-8X, 7XX, 8XX and CP/SP) had a different style/shape flywheel housing but the LH start models all share the same starter parts except the SP125 as noted above.
Other than the 1-40 and 1-50 any of the 1-4X, 1-5X, 1-6X, 200, 250, 300, 380, 440, 450, 550, and 640 covers will be interchangeable with the stop switch changes noted.
Mark
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Too tired to repost it all, but we worked through a primer on the BP-1 today. Details may be found on AS.
arboristsite.com
Mark
McCulloch Chain Saws
Well I've been lurking a bit but thought I'd say hi. Hopefully everyone survived the jolly season ok. On the 800 today. I should also say its been my main saw for a couple months nearly. I have plenty others but she's just going so darn well and no reason to put it away. Was running a 288...
arboristsite.com
Mark
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Gotcha - yeah I have what you need.
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Awesome!
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I think we have a solution for the missing 55063 "capillary seal" in the fuel cap for the older and large frame saws.
McCulloch tried a number of solutions to the fuel cap vent.
Mark
McCulloch tried a number of solutions to the fuel cap vent.
Mark
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Mark
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I had some 82 cc cylinders sleeved a couple of years ago and put one saw (SP81) together to give them a try.
Cold compression seemed to be O.K.
But after running for a minute or two the compression dropped off significantly. I ran several trials and every time the same thing, run well for a bit then lose all compression and quit.
I took it apart today and there is nothing obvious amiss. I wanted to see if a different (sleeved) cylinder worked any better so I started on that project today.
We shall see...
Mark
Cold compression seemed to be O.K.
But after running for a minute or two the compression dropped off significantly. I ran several trials and every time the same thing, run well for a bit then lose all compression and quit.
I took it apart today and there is nothing obvious amiss. I wanted to see if a different (sleeved) cylinder worked any better so I started on that project today.
We shall see...
Mark
legdelimber
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Makes me wonder a little about surface finish of the cylinder bore or the outside of the sleeve.
I used to turn some large drums (bout 30" o.d) that would get a resonance going and cause that classic spiral chatter pattern. I had to make up a heavy (about 30 lb), expandable damper ring with a rubber strip around it. I put the damper ring inside of the end of the drum and opened (acme screw and nut rig) it tightly against the inside of drum. That stopped the resonance getting started.
Just wondering if there was any sort of issue with turning the sleeves?
Boring tubing with a welded seam was usually a pain for it wanting to be out of round due to how the seam affected the tooling/cut.
Then a boring bar can want to leave something of a "shadow" of chatter when it crosses over the ports in the saw cylinder.
Just sorta blabbering some old thoughts, is all guys.
I used to turn some large drums (bout 30" o.d) that would get a resonance going and cause that classic spiral chatter pattern. I had to make up a heavy (about 30 lb), expandable damper ring with a rubber strip around it. I put the damper ring inside of the end of the drum and opened (acme screw and nut rig) it tightly against the inside of drum. That stopped the resonance getting started.
Just wondering if there was any sort of issue with turning the sleeves?
Boring tubing with a welded seam was usually a pain for it wanting to be out of round due to how the seam affected the tooling/cut.
Then a boring bar can want to leave something of a "shadow" of chatter when it crosses over the ports in the saw cylinder.
Just sorta blabbering some old thoughts, is all guys.
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NZsaws
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PM700 picked up for US$60,
Apparently has sat for 15 years, but put new plug in and ran on 3rd pull.
Bit of oxidation under paint but seems like hasn't been run much.
I read somewhere the later Macs had chrome flaking issues, was this vintage being Black and Decker ok?
Apparently has sat for 15 years, but put new plug in and ran on 3rd pull.
Bit of oxidation under paint but seems like hasn't been run much.
I read somewhere the later Macs had chrome flaking issues, was this vintage being Black and Decker ok?
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edju1958
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Mark,I'm just thinking about the early 10 series saws that had a sleeve in them.I can't understand what the difference would be.Possibly a different mixture of metals (alloy)?
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I have some other 82cc McCullochs with similar compression that run and cut pretty well so I don't think that is a major factor.
The bore looks to be very smooth, I don't have a way to actually measure it but it certainly looks as smooth as the iron bore 797 and SP125 that I went through.
I should have the next one ready to test on Monday or Tuesday so we'll see. I had another PM850/SP81 type cylinder so I thought I would try that first. If this one acts the same way, I also have an SP80 with the "non-divided" transfers which has smaller ports that I could try.
Mark
The bore looks to be very smooth, I don't have a way to actually measure it but it certainly looks as smooth as the iron bore 797 and SP125 that I went through.
I should have the next one ready to test on Monday or Tuesday so we'll see. I had another PM850/SP81 type cylinder so I thought I would try that first. If this one acts the same way, I also have an SP80 with the "non-divided" transfers which has smaller ports that I could try.
Mark
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