MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[heimannm]

I have to say it is not a common problem on any of the McCulloch saws. Out of maybe 200 McCulloch saws that I have messed with, only 2 that I can think of had an issue with those plugs...one was a BP-1 and the other a 101 kart block.

You should be able to find a welch plug of the appropriate size and add a little JB Weld for extra security.

Mark

 

[MedicineMan]

I'm liquidating my Mcculloch collection. I need the funds to pay for all the ultralight camping gear that my son and I need to hike the PCT starting March 13. I just don't play with them any more so they need to go to good homes. I went through all of them back in the day to make them OEM complete good runners. Some haven't been run in several years. I listed all the details in the selling section:
https://opeforum.com/threads/mccull...800-double-eagle-80-sp70-pm700s-7-10-s.32043/

 

[heimannm]

That is quite a sacrifice you are making there Medicine Man, I wish you well in all your endeavors.

Mark

 

[Rallyeguy]

Just letting everyone know I added a 797 Complete gasket kit to my store...

McCulloch 797 Complete Gasket Kit

797 Refresh Gasket kit. Buy as a bundle and save. Kit contains the following gaskets: 35652 Muffler Gasket, 68794 Oil Pump Gasket, 65578 Crankcase bottom cover, 60252 Oiler Housing, 67477 Fuel tank & Insulator, & 63650 Fuel Tank Gasket…

www.oldsawshop.com

 

[MedicineMan]

That is quite a sacrifice you are making there Medicine Man, I wish you well in all your endeavors.

Mark

Thanks Mark
It hurts me more watching them gather dust than it does sending them to new homes. I'm keeping my SP81 and a 10-10 so not out of the MAC addiction completely.

 

[edju1958]

I've got a PM650 that's driving me up a wall.I changed out the clutch drum & rim & greased the bearing last month.Now when I put the chain on all it does is bind.I've even tried a different chain to no avail.Anyone got any ideas?

 

[heimannm]

Ed - Do you have a different bar to try, or a bar and chain that you know works on another saw? Just trying to pin down exactly where the problem is.

Mark

 

[NZsaws]

Howdy all.
Got my SP80 in bits and slowly piecing it together.
I managed to get a set of crank seals, as they are not cheap to get down here am a bit worried I'm going to wreck them.
Any comments or tricks on best way to remove old ones and fit new?
As the crank is out, is it easiest to fit seals when back engine assembled?
Small bearing slides of but have left large one on crank as looks to be in great shape.
Cheers!

 

[cinci5]

I've recently made some plates for checking crankcase leaks. This is for the 10 series saws. You drill for your fitting you want to use. I would like to make some for the bigger saws but need cylinder for exhaust and intake fitment. Is anyone willing to let me borrow one. It can be roached on inside as I only need outside.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/cinci5
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/mcculloch-chain-saws.71126/post-8378381

 

[heimannm]

For the flywheel side seal, I normally drill a small hole then install a coarse thread drywall screw and pop the seal out with a slide hammer.







I have also pulled the bearing off the crankshaft in order to drive the seal out from the inside, but the slide hammer is much quicker and easier. Just be careful with drilling through the body of the seal.

For the PTO side on the larger displacement saws with the bearing inserts, I made a small jig to hole the insert and a couple of mandrels to press the bearing and seals out and in again. I learned the hard was that if you don't have something supporting the I.D. of the bearing when you press it in they can take a bit of a twist and will not run true on the shaft.

One mandrel has a smaller O.D. which allows me to press the bearing and seal all the way through the insert. The other mandrel with the lager O.D. presses them in to the proper depth.





Mark

 

[heimannm]

I made the larger mandrel so it would press the seal and the bearing just below flush with the edge of the insert.



Pay attention to the insert, the hole is not centered and the bearing and seal but be installed in the correct locations relative to the offset for the unit to be installed correctly. Also be sure the dowel pin is aligned in the insert and the crankcase (oil tank) or you may destroy the insert, the bearing, and the crankcase...



The bearing goes on the "wide" side of the hole.



If you look closely above, I made a tapered sleeve to go on the shaft and help slide the seal over the square shoulder. Others have mentioned strips from pop cans or bottles, or even electrical tape to create a sleeve but since I encounter this more often I made a piece.



There were some early models (SP80 and some larger gear drive saws) that used a retaining ring similar to the flywheel side bearing rather than the dowel pin, and there were also some of the early models (I don't remember which) that had a longer insert. The point of that is McCulloch made several changes and be sure you have the right parts for your saw.



Mark

 

[hacskaroly]

Got my SP80 in bits and slowly piecing it together.

Beautiful paint job, was it powder coated?

 

[NZsaws]

Good Morning Mark.
Thanks, appreciate your detailed reply. That's given me a lot of pointers.

Think I can make a mandrel for PTO side. I have the ring type locator. What's your method for removing the PTO side seal?

For the flywheel side, I presume you leave the bearing on the crankshaft for assembly and do you have similar process as you do for installing the PTO seal?

Have a good Friday!

 

[NZsaws]

Beautiful paint job, was it powder coated?

Yes this was,
Thought about doing a spray can finish but went with PC and don't regret it.
Did have some pitting from the sand blasting but rather it gone than bubble up again.

 

[NZsaws]

Blasting also exposed some cracks on then starter cover and oil tank. Had these welded up.

 

[hacskaroly]

Yes this was,
Thought about doing a spray can finish but went with PC and don't regret it.
Did have some pitting from the sand blasting but rather it gone than bubble up again.

It looks really good though. I don't have a powder coat setup yet, so I am using rattle cans. I have a couple of extra parts I am practicing painting. I am using a dremel to clean out the pitting and then using bondo to fill it. I also used a fillable primer, but still noticed unlevel spots after putting on the first coat. Part of it is that it is too cold right now to paint, but that will give me time to clean, fill and primer. I have a couple of pieces with cracks too, so I will probably need to get those welded.

 

[NZsaws]

I used a can for the oil tank as too many surfaces to try tape up. Clear coat as well.
Do you have powdercoating companies where your are?
I just rocked up to one and asked if they could do it.
Cost $60 for the whole lot so that's about 40 usd, happy days!

 

[hacskaroly]

Do you have powdercoating companies where your are?

I am not sure, I have not looked. Since this is a hobby for me, I am trying to learn and do all that I can. Here are a couple of pics of the bar and chain oil basin from my 200.