MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[NZsaws]

Gidday Max
It's a two piece but has the pawls for a RH start so maybe they were using up some old stock?
Sort of wished I had filled the holes bit too late now.
The saw looks hardly used but when I opened it up the ring locators had disappeared. Some dents on squish band but damage minimal. Have put in new ones and have new rings.

 

[hacskaroly]

Some dents on squish band but damage minimal.

I have a 10-10 where the rings grenaded. There are still fragments that are firmly wedged into the squish band.

 

[heimannm]

NZ - On the PTO side I push both the bearing and the seal all the way through, then press the new parts in from each side. I have never even thought about trying to install the seal with the insert installed in the crankcase. In order to get the seal over the shoulder on the shaft I have the tapered sleeve.

On the flywheel side, I just use a large socket with an O.D. that nearly matches the O.D of the seal and press them in till the surface is flush.

Someone has replaced the clutch that was on the saw originally with one from a RH start saw. I think it is unlikely that would have been done at the factory.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

 

[edju1958]

I was supposed top have a "simple" repair today - replace a switch on another PM659.That "simple" job turned into a nightmare.I couldn't get 3 of the 4 screws out of the fan housing to save my life.I ended up heating those 3 screws for anywhere between 7-10 minutes at 1500* with a heat gun.One of the bosses was so wallowed out that a helicoil won't even fix it.I figure I might fill the boss with JB Weld & just set the screw in it while still wet.Of course the 2 screws that hold the switch plate onto the cylinder were missing.The saw needed to be seriously cleaned as well.I did get the saw back together minus a few screws that can be added on later.

 

[NZsaws]

NZ - On the PTO side I push both the bearing and the seal all the way through, then press the new parts in from each side. I have never even though about trying to install the seal with the insert installed in the crankcase. In order to get the seal over the shoulder on the shaft I have the tapered sleeve.

On the flywheel side, I just use a large socket with an O.D. that nearly matches the O.D of the seal and press them in till the surface is flush.

Someone has replaced the clutch that was on the saw originally with one from a RH start saw. I think it is unlikely that would have been done at the factory.

Mark

Thanks Mark.
I recon I'm good to go...
Stand back and watch me screw it up

 

[hacskaroly]

Stand back and watch me screw it up

Pictures, we want pictures, just to prove that we are not the only ones who screw stuff up...

 

[Max the Mac Man]

Gidday Max
It's a two piece but has the pawls for a RH start so maybe they were using up some old stock?
Sort of wished I had filled the holes bit too late now.
The saw looks hardly used but when I opened it up the ring locators had disappeared. Some dents on squish band but damage minimal. Have put in new ones and have new rings.

As Mark said the clutch is not from the factory. A note the early SP 80 saws had a thick ring pistons in them instead of thin ring. Make sure you have the correct rings for your piston.

 

[heimannm]

Ed - PM sent with the parts you requested.

I gave the PM700 tank a pretty generous treatment with Red Cote, I will be a few days before I will be able to fill it with fuel for a test.







Mark

 

[Squareground3691]

Got this delivered today, nice shape 850 , and clean piston and cylinder, 160 psi , should be a good runner to the Mac family,

 

[MedicineMan]

I'm glad to see the PM850 arrived safe and sound. I see you gave it a bath. I hope you enjoy it

 

[MedicineMan]

Here is what I have left as of this evening. As always prices are negotiable. I was educated that UPS is cheaper than USPS so now I'm offering free shipping.

SP125 with chain brake(Sale pending)
PM800: $600 Powder coated.(sale pending)
PM850: $500 with 24 inch bar Original worn Paint
PM1010S: one left $400 NOS 20 inch bars and NOS Mac chain
SP70: $500 Original worn paint.
7-10's: $500 each Original paint
PM700's: $500 each One with original paint. 1 powder coated. The one with bow is sale pending.

 

[Rallyeguy]

Yes this was,
Thought about doing a spray can finish but went with PC and don't regret it.
Did have some pitting from the sand blasting but rather it gone than bubble up again.

One trick I learned with Powder and paint on the mcculloch saw stuff....If after bead/sand blasting you pre-bake the part, it helps burn out many of the oils or any humidity that would gas out from the porosity of the metal.

 

[Rallyeguy]

Hey Gang,

Sending out an early "Heads Up" to everyone in case they need something before I bug out for a vacation.

Please Note: Orders received after Wednesday Feb 5th will be shipped after Feb 15.

Thanks,

Brian Genrich
Old Saw Shop

 

[hacskaroly]

If after bead/sand blasting you pre-bake the part

What temp and for how long? I need to plan this out so I can get it done when my wife is out shopping.

 

[MedicineMan]

The process is called outgassing and magnesium is terrible for emitting gas from oils when you bake it. Especially old saws that have been absorbing oil for 50 years. I bake mine at 500F for an hour and still no absolute guarantee. You better not be using her oven in the kitchen.

 

[hacskaroly]

I bake mine at 500F for an hour and still no absolute guarantee. You better not be using her oven in the kitchen.

I have been wanting to get an oven for the garage for powder coating, now this gives me a second reason to. Yeah, probably best to keep chainsaw parts out of the kitchen.

 

[MedicineMan]

I bought the biggest toaster oven that Walmart had(several years ago). Large parts I have to bake one piece at the time. It will fit a SP125 fuel tank but I have to position it perfectly and carefully. All other Mac parts fit with no problem. I use a cheap powder gun from Harbor Freight. My local powder coat guy gave me some pointers and I went through a little trial and error. The Citrus stripper at Walmart strips powder coat off just fine. I coat it and seal it up in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid. Let it sit out in the sun all day and someplace warm all night. I use an empty hydraulic fluid bucket. I then hit it with my 4000psi pressure washer and it rolls right off. Same for paint. I bought a 6 inch wand for my pressure washer. Wear thick industrial rubber gloves. That 6 inch wand is dangerous.

 

[hacskaroly]

I bought the biggest toaster oven that Walmart had(several years ago). Large parts I have to bake one piece at the time. It will fit a SP125 fuel tank but I have to position it perfectly and carefully. All other Mac parts fit with no problem. I use a cheap powder gun from Harbor Freight. My local powder coat guy gave me some pointers and I went through a little trial and error. The Citrus stripper at Walmart strips powder coat off just fine. I coat it and seal it up in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid. Let it sit out in the sun all day and someplace warm all night. I use an empty hydraulic fluid bucket. I then hit it with my 4000psi pressure washer and it rolls right off. Same for paint. I bought a 6 inch wand for my pressure washer. Wear thick industrial rubber gloves. That 6 inch wand is dangerous.

Good information there!! What do you generally do for pitting, cleaning and fill before painting/powder coating?

 

[MedicineMan]

Chemical strip, pressure wash, media blast(garnet), JB weld for filler, sand paper, offgas. If you have JB weld on the parts you will need to blow the powder onto the part while the part is hot. Takes a little practice to get this right as it's easy to lay it on too thick. The powder melts when it hits the hot part. You do this because the JP weld doesn't conduct electricity and the powder won't build well over it using just the electric charge. You might get by if the JB weld is very thin or only in very small areas. The best thing about powder is if you lay it on ugly you can blow it off and start over. Until you cook it, that is.