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edju1958

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I received this PM650 from a member here who's in Ca.A little dirty,but nothing that a rag & a little time couldn't take care of.Unfortunately the OPL is broken & the chain brake has been gutted.I put fuel in it & it fired right up.
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edju1958

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I had some time today to fiddle wityh the PM10-10.I found it had a plug in it about 3 heat ranges too cold.I put the correct plug in it & a chip & it still wanted to bog down after getting warmed up.I turned the hi needle in 1/4 turn & it made all the difference in the world.I'll probably end up pulling the carb & go through it just for peace of mind.I've got cutting to do tomorrow & I'll give it a workout.I'll take my newest Timber Bear & the 5-10 & maybe the PM700 just to hear the crackle,Lol.
 

Scott Kelsey

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Well everyone I made a deal on a saw earlier this week and this afternoon it showed up. I was pretty excited to say the least. Fairly good, clean, original SP81 from a fellow that was great to deal with. Well, today I was off and had a lot of projects. When the UPS man showed up I told him up by the garage will do.

Went back to my tasks and the wife was going to leave when I heard something. Well, this beautiful saw got backed over a bit. I believe the wrap handle took most of the hit but here are some before and after pictures. Will be needing a few pieces but I believe the main body, tank, and engine are still in good condition.

My favorite part about this saw is the original sticker of where it came from.

I learned a valuable lesson today and nope I didn't get mad. She truly is a Saint and atleast it was not a child. I will dig into the saw tomorrow.
 

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Vinnywv

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Be patient and straighten the handlebar. Bottom braces from any sp60,70,80,81 will fit.

Yes great that it was just s saw. It can be repaired. Great score. And no sense getting angry. You cant go back in time and change it. Well done.
 

heimannm

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Scott - I sent a PM

I do have some reproduction full wrap bars made in steel that will work on either SP or PM models, there is a plug in the bottom and and there are two sets of holes at 90 degrees to accommodate either mounting system.

The NOS handle in front is for an SP, the PM version uses vertical holes like you see on the steel handles behind.

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Mark
 

edju1958

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Sorry to see that mishap Scott.Parts are replaceable,a life is not.

Yesterday I was out cutting on a good sized ash.When I get to the cutting site I always take my glasses off & my phone out of my pocket & put them on the hood of my John Deere 140 garden tractor.As I was cutting the limbs off I was throwing them on a pile right in front of the tractor.I guess one of them decided to knock my glasses off the hood & into half knee high grass,or so I thought.I was ticked off at first,but I figured it was time for a new pair as I'd had them for 2 yrs.now & the lenses are all scratched up.I drove home with the load of wood & I had 2 fellas look for them while I was still there.I went back today to cut & get another load of wood.The property owner had a fork lift that he helped load the larger logs onto my trailer with which was a godsend.We were standing there talking after we'd finished & I was getting ready to leave & the property owner said "Ed,are these the glasses you were looking for?" I said yeah,where did you find them.He told me they were wedged in between the tractor & the hydraulic levers.Unbelievable! I drove home almost a mile & back there again today & they never fell out.Here's a pic of about half the wood from the tree.My lineup consisted of Husky41 for limbing,PM700 with a 20 in.bar,& 7-10 with a 22 in.bar.
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edju1958

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The PM650 that I got last week fired right up when I fueled it up.Today I had a little time,so I put a Mac bar on it with a new Oregon chain & fouind out the manual oiler doesn't work.I can hear it pumping air like it wants to pump oil.The tank is ful;l to the top.I'll drain out the oil tomorrow & flush with kerosene & see what happens.If the line is broken in the tank,wouldn't it still pump oil till the oil level got down?I hate like hell to have to tear the saw down to replace a 2 cent oil line.I have extra oil pumps here too,those are easy enough to change out.
 

heimannm

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Ed - the oil pick up fitting is near the top on the flywheel side of the tank, try laying the saw on the flywheel side and working the manual oiler. If it pumps oil in that position chances are the oil pick up tube has broken or fallen off. It is possible to remove the oil tank without completely disassembling the saw using a 10 mm open end wrench, but I prefer to strip them all the way down for a thorough cleaning and inspection if I have to go as far as the oil tank anyway.

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Mark
 

edju1958

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Ed - the oil pick up fitting is near the top on the flywheel side of the tank, try laying the saw on the flywheel side and working the manual oiler. If it pumps oil in that position chances are the oil pick up tube has broken or fallen off. It is possible to remove the oil tank without completely disassembling the saw using a 10 mm open end wrench, but I prefer to strip them all the way down for a thorough cleaning and inspection if I have to go as far as the oil tank anyway.

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Mark
Mark,I tried pumping the manual oiler in every position to no avail.I'll try a different pump first as it's the easiest thing to do.I was thinking it could also be the pump gasket ,although I've never seen one go bad.I checked the screws that hold the pump on & they were all fairly tight.
I know I don't have to totally disassembled the saw,buty it's fairly close - remove the muffler,front handle,igniotion module,recoil,oil pump,flywheel& then take the bolts out that hold the tank on.I was able to work around taking the clutch & cylinder jacket off on my Timber Bear.One would've thought that Mac wouldn't have built the entire saw around an oil line,Lol.
Would you recommend using a sealant on the oil tank?I've taken oil tanks off that had a sealant & others that did not.
 
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heimannm

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I always use sealant on the oil tank, Dirko HT has become a favorite since it is easy to clean up mistakes...

Have a close look at the check valve for the manual pump. Older models used the same disc as the 10 Series saws and I have found them to be very reliable. My experience says you have to use the older diaphragm with the teardrop opening for the disc check valve to work.

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The later pumps had an integrated check valve. These are not user friendly but I think you could make a repair with a small round piece of the diaphragm material if you could punch out the exact diameter. Again my experience says you have to use the diaphragm with two holes (instead of the teardrop opening) for this one to work correctly.

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The outlet check valve (ball and spring) are not intended to be serviceable but I have encountered a few that were stuck so tight I had to pull the steel sleeve out and free the ball. If I remember correctly there is a counterbore for the sleeve so you press it back in until it bottoms out.

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Mark
 

Dream

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The PM650 that I got last week fired right up when I fueled it up.Today I had a little time,so I put a Mac bar on it with a new Oregon chain & fouind out the manual oiler doesn't work.I can hear it pumping air like it wants to pump oil.The tank is ful;l to the top.I'll drain out the oil tomorrow & flush with kerosene & see what happens.If the line is broken in the tank,wouldn't it still pump oil till the oil level got down?I hate like hell to have to tear the saw down to replace a 2 cent oil line.I have extra oil pumps here too,those are easy enough to change out.
Just did a Timber Bear for the neighbor last weekend. Oil line was rotted off at the barb.
Like Mark said, its right there at the top. I didnt take it all the way apart, because the saw was very clean inside.
Those bolts are a little difficult, but will come out without removing too much.
Definitely use a good sealant when going back. I used Dirko HT.
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Id say this saw is pretty a pretty low hour unit.:)

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edju1958

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I think I might've gotten lucky in getting the saw to oil again.I washed the oil tank out with fuel mix as I couldn't find my kerosene,go figure.Then I pulled the pump off & couldn't believe what I saw.There was a thin layer of fine sawdust on the pump & gasket which was preventing it from getting a tight seal,hence the pump sucking air.I cleaned it all off,filled up the oil tank & began pumping the oil rod.The chain is literally dripping with oil now & had a good puddle under the saw.I wiped it up & checked back later to make sure it wasn't leaking somewhere & all was dry.Now if I could just find the damn clip for the pump rod I'd be happy.I dropped it when taking it off & can't find it anywhere.I suppose I can borrow one from one of my 610s.
 
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