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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

edju1958

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I went out cutting at my neighbor's today & took my PM55.What a light ass kicking saw! I was really impressed with it & found it to be much lighter than the 10-10S.I'd gotten the saw back last winter & kinda forgot about it.Now that my wood cutting season has pretty much come to an end.
 

Scott Kelsey

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Hey everyone. Can you guys tell me what the stock carburetors are supposed to be on later model SP81's? I noticed my 81's have two different carburetors. One is a single just and other is a double jet. I have not had a chance to figure out what the carbs are but I will do so soon and post pictures.
 

heimannm

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I am looking at July 1976 SP81 IPL number 92265A that shows three different carburetors, one is a fixed H jet and two are adjustable. Unfortunately the IPL does not identify the carburetors by model or number. I would say your two saws most likely have the original carburetors and they are different because McCulloch used different carburetors.

Mark
 

Vinnywv

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The fixed jet is a walbro sdc51. They are good carbs just run the saw richer but will save the cylinder.

The double jet is likely a walbro sdc 38 or 38a.
The other might be the zama c2.

My sp81 has a sdc37 on it and it really likes that carb. It had a sdc 51 on it. The others have a 51, and a 38. The zama c2 is a good carb also but touchy. Pm800,805 have the zama carb on them. Sp80 and 850 saws used the sdc 38 or 38a also.
 

Squareground3691

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The fixed jet is a walbro sdc51. They are good carbs just run the saw richer but will save the cylinder.

The double jet is likely a walbro sdc 38 or 38a.
The other might be the zama c2.

My sp81 has a sdc37 on it and it really likes that carb. It had a sdc 51 on it. The others have a 51, and a 38. The zama c2 is a good carb also but touchy. Pm800,805 have the zama carb on them. Sp80 and 850 saws used the sdc 38 or 38a also.
Good info right there
 

Yukon Stihl

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I got what was described as a mostly complete SP125
Now i am in search of items to complete it.I have not been inside a 125 yet but have an idea on whats needed. This one looks low use till someone decided to remove the AV tank and bodge a 7XX tank on it.
The piston and cylinder look nice,muffler is in good shape other than the reed is gone.A couple decals are still on it at125 c.jpg 125d.jpg 125 e.jpg 125.jpg 125 b.jpg the oil tank and decomp
I am guessing a mount for the intake rubber boot on the block,maybe a reed block,and rubber intake boot.
My guess is this tank is to messed up for stock use,so a tank ,carb,air filter and the handle bar clamps.
And a clutch cover.
If anyone has some extra parts,i have trading stock and or ...
Thanks
 

edju1958

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I'm now officially the proud owner (for now) of a Mac 1-10.It has a bullfrog carb on it for now.I'll tinker with it for a bit to see if it'll run,but if not that carb will be pulled off & an SDC cube carb will go in it.The saw is in real good shape.
 

Scott Kelsey

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I just got home and was able to look at both SP81's. One has model number 600438J and that one has an SDC 51A carb. The other saw has model number 600438D and it has an SDC 38A carb.
 

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jacob j.

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I got what was described as a mostly complete SP125
Now i am in search of items to complete it.I have not been inside a 125 yet but have an idea on whats needed. This one looks low use till someone decided to remove the AV tank and bodge a 7XX tank on it.
The piston and cylinder look nice,muffler is in good shape other than the reed is gone.A couple decals are still on it atView attachment 336577 View attachment 336578 View attachment 336579 View attachment 336580 View attachment 336581 the oil tank and decomp
I am guessing a mount for the intake rubber boot on the block,maybe a reed block,and rubber intake boot.
My guess is this tank is to messed up for stock use,so a tank ,carb,air filter and the handle bar clamps.
And a clutch cover.
If anyone has some extra parts,i have trading stock and or ...
Thanks

I probably have some of what you need - It looks like you need a tank, intake manifold, both front and rear mounts, the front strut, An SP-specific carburetor, filter mount, filter, manual oiler rod and button,
fuel and pulse lines, front grounding wire, bar plates, felling spike(s), and a bar spacer if you plan to run a more modern bar.

Mark (@heimannm ) might be able to help with some of the smalls. I think I can help with the tank, manifold, handlebar clamps and crush tubes, front strut, manual oiler rod and button, and felling spike(s).
 

Al Smith

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I don't know if this helps because the IPL's could be taken over a several year period ,As Mark said one single jet with no numbers .Of the two jets SDC 38A and HS 111 A. Others could work you just need the long stemmed jets or block off the holes with a plug or something so it doesn't suck air past the filter .They actually didn't have that good of a filtration system to begin with .My IPL is dated July 1976 .What year the saw is I have no idea .
 

Scott Kelsey

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I see different SDC 38 models such as A, I believe B, and C. Can anyone tell me the differences if there are any. Don't believe I need a carb just trying to learn so incase I rebuild it/them.
 

edju1958

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I finished cutting early today & had some time to work on my 7-10.I put a new AC/Delco plug in it,adjusted the carb & it runs great.The problem I'm having with the 5-10,6-10,& 7-10 is the throttle lock isn't enough to get them started.I need to hold the throttle on all the way & pull it over at the same time,which is pretty awkward.Can anyone tell me why I need to do this?
 

Steve

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I finished cutting early today & had some time to work on my 7-10.I put a new AC/Delco plug in it,adjusted the carb & it runs great.The problem I'm having with the 5-10,6-10,& 7-10 is the throttle lock isn't enough to get them started.I need to hold the throttle on all the way & pull it over at the same time,which is pretty awkward.Can anyone tell me why I need to do this?


Is the screw all the way in on the trigger? The throttle rod may also be too long. It happens after years of over travel.
 

Al Smith

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Both the Walbro and the Tillotson are simple carbs and quite frankly the performance should be about the same . If you stick with it long enough you'll have a tidy little stash of carbs ,like coffee cans full .
An HS Tilley you can flip the parts around from one to another and come up with sort of a hybrid .I have one on a Mac 6-10 ( 70 CC ) with a larger choke than the original that in a way acts like a ram tube and that little thing is a screamer .
 

Al Smith

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Hmm,I wonder on that 125 if they cobbled that thing up with a sloper manifold and kart carb ,like a big HL double pumper at one time .The original boot on that thing is a spring loaded contraption which isn't easy to find .Although I've never done it have thought perhaps a large boot from say a Stihl 084 might be adapted
 

heimannm

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The 084 boot can be made to work on the SP125 type saws, but today there are several good options for quality reproductions. Traverse Creek AKA The Duke has very nice one available and reasonably priced. I have a few extra springs and ferrules if anyone has a need.

Mark
 

edju1958

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I got the parts needed for my Timber Bear from Mark earlier this week & today I started putting it back together.I got to the point of fueling it up & tried starting it.No spark prevented it from firing up.When the screw sheared off & got stuck between the ignition module & the flywheel it might've sheared the Woodruff key.I'll have to tear the recoil off again & take a look.

How long should I wait for the MotoSeal to cure before I put oil in it?
 

Steve

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I got the parts needed for my Timber Bear from Mark earlier this week & today I started putting it back together.I got to the point of fueling it up & tried starting it.No spark prevented it from firing up.When the screw sheared off & got stuck between the ignition module & the flywheel it might've sheared the Woodruff key.I'll have to tear the recoil off again & take a look.

How long should I wait for the MotoSeal to cure before I put oil in it?


Overnight on the motoseal. It takes a bit to cure and I don't like to take chances on it leaking.
 
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