MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Max the Mac Man]

Back in the black Cherry today with my two favorite macs. 80 & 7-10.
View attachment 459550View attachment 459551

The 82cc A/V's are my favorite!

 

[StGaston]

Went my storage unit today and grabbed my dad's old saws (Mac 10-10 Automatic and Mac 3214). They've been there since he passed away 12 years ago and I figured it's time to either do something with them or get rid of them. Kind of want to keep them b/c they have sentimental value (esp the 10-10). Would either of them be worthwhile to get running? How about parts availability? I haven't tried to start them, just pulled the cords slowly to get a rough idea of compression. The 10-10 seems to have really good compression but the starter cord didn't retract, compression on the 3214 is cr@p. I found a piston/ring set (1-3/4 bore) for a 10-10 but not sure if all the various 10-10 versions use the same piston. Can't find a piston/ring for the 3214 to save my life. Anyone know where to get parts for the 3214 or is it just going to be a wall hanger? Thanks.

 

[hacskaroly]

Kind of want to keep them b/c they have sentimental value (esp the 10-10). Would either of them be worthwhile to get running? How about parts availability? I haven't tried to start them, just pulled the cords slowly to get a rough idea of compression. The 10-10 seems to have really good compression but the starter cord didn't retract

For sentimental reasons, yes they are keepers. Tons of 10-10s were made and parts are relatively easy to find on eBay and even cheap parts saws on Craigslist. I have two 10-10s, a D-44 and a 200, but that is a small collection compared to others. There are several members here that are making aftermarket gasket kits and they are really good quality. Carb kits are also easy to get and some companies are making aftermarket parts too. Depending on the type of air filter, you may have one that is being made aftermarket, unfortunately the style I have are not made, so I will have to jimmy-rig something.

I am willing to bet your recoil is just dirty and needs a good cleaning. Years of use, dirt, sawdust and oil will gum up the spring. I have had a few saws like that and after taking the recoil apart and giving everything a good clean it will work as good as new! I would not be surprised if you get the recoil cleaned up and put some fresh mix fuel in it, it may start! Your saw looks to be in good shape with hardly any paint chipping...you don't see that much! When you get it running it will sound like an old hotrod when it idles, just sitting there going pop...pop...pop...pop...pop, really neat sounding.

Here is a link to a webpage that has Mac 10-10 IPLs. If you can find your serial number on the saw (usually under the air filter in the air box) then you should be able to find the correct IPL for your saw. Old Saw Shop - Mac 10-10 IPLs

Here is an example of a cover on one:



The 3214 while not a classic can be rebuilt. Some of the members here can help track down a piston ring. One of the good things about the newer Macs is that other companies like Craftsman and Poulan manufactured the same saw (well a manufactured made the same saw for different companies), so it is not improbably to find a Craftsman, Poulan, Husqvarna or other brand parts that will work too. You will want to pull the muffler off and check and see if the piston is scored, if so you may need a piston (and possibly a cylinder too).

Here is a link to the 3214 IPL that gives you part numbers Mymowerparts Website - Mac 3214 Chainsaw IPL

 

[hacskaroly]

Here is an exploded view of the recoil, not much to it, like I said, probably just needs a good cleaning and will be snappy like new!

 

[heimannm]

I have some NOS rings for the 3200 (301047) but do not have a piston on hand (301046).

In my opinion the 32/35/38 cc models are some of the easier ones to work on, they are rather disappointing performance wise.

There are many parts and many suppliers for the 10 Series saws. The most expensive part for your saw, other than replacing the cylinder/crankcase assembly, is probably the air filter.

Mark

 

[the 28inch mac man]

I have a verry, verry nice mcculloch 440 for sale. The saw has been compleatly gone through and runs perfect. I am going to post a selling thread too, but figured I would mention it here. If anyone's interested PM me.

 

[Al Smith]

That boot deal reminds me of ordering one from Scot at Chainsawr .He thought I meant the intake boot .I think he expected me to get huffy which I didn't just ordered the correct item .Things happen besides I've got a good intake boot should i ever need one ..If that time ever comes it might take me a long time to find it .

 

[the 28inch mac man]

For sentimental reasons, yes they are keepers. Tons of 10-10s were made and parts are relatively easy to find on eBay and even cheap parts saws on Craigslist. I have two 10-10s, a D-44 and a 200, but that is a small collection compared to others. There are several members here that are making aftermarket gasket kits and they are really good quality. Carb kits are also easy to get and some companies are making aftermarket parts too. Depending on the type of air filter, you may have one that is being made aftermarket, unfortunately the style I have are not made, so I will have to jimmy-rig something.

I am willing to bet your recoil is just dirty and needs a good cleaning. Years of use, dirt, sawdust and oil will gum up the spring. I have had a few saws like that and after taking the recoil apart and giving everything a good clean it will work as good as new! I would not be surprised if you get the recoil cleaned up and put some fresh mix fuel in it, it may start! Your saw looks to be in good shape with hardly any paint chipping...you don't see that much! When you get it running it will sound like an old hotrod when it idles, just sitting there going pop...pop...pop...pop...pop, really neat sounding.

Here is a link to a webpage that has Mac 10-10 IPLs. If you can find your serial number on the saw (usually under the air filter in the air box) then you should be able to find the correct IPL for your saw. Old Saw Shop - Mac 10-10 IPLs

Here is an example of a cover on one:

View attachment 459588

The 3214 while not a classic can be rebuilt. Some of the members here can help track down a piston ring. One of the good things about the newer Macs is that other companies like Craftsman and Poulan manufactured the same saw (well a manufactured made the same saw for different companies), so it is not improbably to find a Craftsman, Poulan, Husqvarna or other brand parts that will work too. You will want to pull the muffler off and check and see if the piston is scored, if so you may need a piston (and possibly a cylinder too).

Here is a link to the 3214 IPL that gives you part numbers Mymowerparts Website - Mac 3214 Chainsaw IPL

Or you spend$60 on a nos air filter. All the early 10-10es had the high dome air filter which you have to get nos. I have scored them before for around $30, so keep an eye out.

 

[the 28inch mac man]

Went my storage unit today and grabbed my dad's old saws (Mac 10-10 Automatic and Mac 3214). They've been there since he passed away 12 years ago and I figured it's time to either do something with them or get rid of them. Kind of want to keep them b/c they have sentimental value (esp the 10-10). Would either of them be worthwhile to get running? How about parts availability? I haven't tried to start them, just pulled the cords slowly to get a rough idea of compression. The 10-10 seems to have really good compression but the starter cord didn't retract, compression on the 3214 is cr@p. I found a piston/ring set (1-3/4 bore) for a 10-10 but not sure if all the various 10-10 versions use the same piston. Can't find a piston/ring for the 3214 to save my life. Anyone know where to get parts for the 3214 or is it just going to be a wall hanger? Thanks.View attachment 459587

I would keep the

Went my storage unit today and grabbed my dad's old saws (Mac 10-10 Automatic and Mac 3214). They've been there since he passed away 12 years ago and I figured it's time to either do something with them or get rid of them. Kind of want to keep them b/c they have sentimental value (esp the 10-10). Would either of them be worthwhile to get running? How about parts availability? I haven't tried to start them, just pulled the cords slowly to get a rough idea of compression. The 10-10 seems to have really good compression but the starter cord didn't retract, compression on the 3214 is cr@p. I found a piston/ring set (1-3/4 bore) for a 10-10 but not sure if all the various 10-10 versions use the same piston. Can't find a piston/ring for the 3214 to save my life. Anyone know where to get parts for the 3214 or is it just going to be a wall hanger? Thanks.View attachment 459587

Those 10-10es are some of the funest saws to run. As fun as a Huski 372 just different.

 

[heimannm]

The 440 is 87cc.



Mark

 

[the 28inch mac man]

The 440 is 87cc.

View attachment 459626

Mark

Thanks! I know the 440 is one of the more un-known Mcculloch saws. They have a ton of torque with a 36 inch bar and a great sound.

 

[Al Smith]

The model 10-10 had one of the longest production runs for just about any chainsaw .I have a few of the early right hand start and one of the last which is I think 3.5 cubic inch and looks nearly brand new .It had sat in a basement for years unused with the brake assembley not connected .It belonged to a tree rimmer and that's just one thing they all did .BTW it was a freebie .I think I had restored the brake assembly but it basically is a shelf queen

 

[jacob j.]

Repop rear handle fillers for the SP-105/125/125C:

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[heimannm]

Had a guy stop in Saturday afternoon with a 3200 McCulloch, he bought the saw new in 1998 and has used in infrequently for the past 27 years. We quickly resolved the chain tension problem (I showed him the adjuster screw at the front of the saw...) but when giving it a test run I noticed it was not oiling.

Yesterday I went through it to discover the oil line was broken coming out of the tank so I tore it down completely to give it a good clean up and replace all the lines, fuel line fell apart in the process. I was surprised that they had held up so well for so long.

Back together with all new lines and it still would not oil...after a couple of attempts I took the oil pump apart to discover the sloped end of the gear was worn almost flat so it produced no pumping action as the shaft rotated. It is hard to see in the photo but this is a new one with the proper slope.



The slope must be properly timed with the flat on the shaft as that acts as the valve.



For an explanation of how the oiler is supposed to work see the video starting around 12:45.

On the 32/35/38 cc models the oil pump is located under the flywheel and is driven constantly whenever the engine is running.

After all that, the little McCulloch saws is now ready for another 27 years.





Mark

 

[LAWN BOY]

 

[cinci5]

Just a FYI i have changed my listing on the plates so that you get both 10 series and large frame block off plates.
A few people requested this so here it is.https://www.ebay.com/usr/cinci5

 

[hacskaroly]

I realize that it might be unorthodox for me to post here about my Prentice and Reed (Craftsman) 1200B chainsaw, luckily the one qualifier it has is that it utilizes a 103cc McCulloch engine! I finally got the cylinder off to take a peak at the piston and it appears to be in good shape (no scoring) though I am not sure if it has been replaced at one point. There is some rust in the cylinder and gunk, but I think it will be fine with some cleaning.



For the McCulloch experts, especially with the 103cc motors, should the rings be the same (have the same gap)? I got the rings out and overlaid them and they appear to be the same size, but with different size gaps. Is this normal or is it possible that someone else replaced a ring with a different gap? I didn't see any evidence of the ring breaking on either side of the gap. The top ring was embedded in, but didn't take much coaxing to get it out, I think it just had gunk around it and behind it.



It was hard to get a pic of the rings overlaid with the lighting I have, but you can see the gap difference between the two.



The piston did have this little chunk taken out, I suppose if the ring had been changed out the old ring may have broken apart, but again, no evidence of damage on the cylinder tube anywhere.



I discovered after taking the piston off that when I tilted the saw body a needle bearing fell out of the top of the crank shaft (where the wrist pin goes), I carefully removed the rest and counted them up and they totaled 58, I thanked my lucky stars that I had an even number. Then I moved a part on the workbench and found another one....59....taking another look on the bench I found another....60. Hopefully there are 60 total, because that is all I could find!

 

[heimannm]

The engines that McCulloch produced for Reed Prentice were not the same as their own chainsaw/welder engines; as a result I don't think the parts from one will just transition over to the other.

That said, you have a piece of ring missing somehow. They should be equal in size and the ring end gap with the ring pressed squarely in the bore should be around .012" or so. There is a pretty good chance you can find some new rings to fit if you come up with the diameter of the bore, thickness of the ring, and radial thickness of the ring. With that information start a search (Otto Ring comes to mind).

Mark

 

[hacskaroly]

The engines that McCulloch produced for Reed Prentice were not the same as their own chainsaw/welder engines; as a result I don't think the parts from one will just transition over to the other.

Well, darn, I guess I will need to create a basterd McCulloch thread for this red-headed step brother if I want to post about it any further, don't want to get anyone confused later on down the road.

Thank you for your confirmation regarding the spring, now that I have everything apart, I can get measurements and try to track down a new set of rings and work on getting this thing all cleaned up. The two screws holding the crankshaft halves together are in there tight, felt like I was going to sheer my tool trying to get them out and I need to get a puller with arms a little longer to get around the coil magnet. After that I should be able to get the crankshaft out and really give it a good cleaning and restoration.

Coil magnet just out of reach of my current bearing puller.



Dirty



...and more dirty/rusty

 

[heimannm]

In addition to several repairs in the waiting, a friend dropped off this 12-25 McCulloch two man saw this week. This one should be interesting.







Mark