MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Maintenance Chief]

Here is a different one for the McCulloch crowd, Pro Mac 61, one of the Italian McCulloch saws. Mike Acres site has it listed as a Pro Mac 60, 1998 manufacture date, and 59cc built in an Italian McCulloch factory.

Back story on a big group of saws I picked up in Oregon a few years ago...seems that Ormark/Oregon chain manufacturer were testing chains, I believe for kick back propensity, and a saw shop in Eugene (Mr. Chainsaw) got the saw when they were done. If you look at the cushion on the front handle you can see where a section was cut away for the saw to be clamped in their test rig. The tape on the trigger release was also a by-product of their testing.

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Mark

Mark , the Lombard comango has a solid linkage peice ( connected to the tillotson carb)that lifts a piston up from a check valve for the oiler, its right below the carb box.
Since the oil tank is pressurized with compression ,the saw running a full throttle would be getting " full oiling" ?

 

[edju1958]

Regarding the model 610 IMO the oil pump is the weak link .I've never had any luck attempting to repair one .They either just plain will not pump or leak into the crankcase which will really carbon them up .Other than that plus they are heavy for 60 cc's not a bad saw .It's pretty hard to kill one .Other than the 610 I've never owned or worked on the later variants like the Timber Bear ,650 etc. I own a 650 but that's the 87 cc geardrive made in the mid 60's .

I never knew the 600 series oil pumps could leak into the crankcase.I've got another 610 that I fiddled with yesterday.I pulled 3 clutches off & lubed their dry bearings.The one was full of oil,line was intact & it wouldn't oil.I dumped the oil back into the jug & put kerosene in the tank & it oiled just fine.I had this happen on a previous 610 & as soon as I put the oil back in it was a no go.I'm trying to understand why it'll pump kerosene,but not oil? I haven't tried the oil back in the tank on the 2nd saw yet.

 

[edju1958]

I finally got 610 #2 to oil today.I had to put a brand new pump on it that I took off the saw with the M.W.engine.It will only oil manually though

 

[edju1958]

I moved on to another 610,this is the one that didn't want to hold a FW on.I put an oil tank on from a parts 605.Then I started swapping parts off the M.W.engine & back onto the 610 engine.I hope to finish it up tomorrow.
I went to pull the clutch off & lube the bearing,but I think I was a bit late to that party.

 

[heimannm]

Ed - I have a pretty good supply of those bearings if you can't locate one elsewhere.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

Ed - I have a pretty good supply of those bearings if you can't locate one elsewhere.

Mark

Thanks Mark! I have a couple on hand here from saws I've torn down.

 

[edju1958]

I've got a problem with 610 #3.This is the saw that wouldn't hold a FW on for nothing.I transferred everything over onto a M.W.engine only to find out that the crank seals were bad on the M.W.engine.So,I transferred everything back onto the original engine & now it has absolutely no spark.I've disconnected the switch wire & still no spark.I changed the switch wire & put a new one in & still no spark.I changed out the ignition module 3 times & still no spark.I've tried multiple new Champion & AC Delco plugs & still no spark.The only thing I haven't changed out yet is the FW.The saw ran for a short time with the FW that's on it now before the FW nut loosened up.This is driving me crazy.

 

[cinci5]

I've got a problem with 610 #3.This is the saw that wouldn't hold a FW on for nothing.I transferred everything over onto a M.W.engine only to find out that the crank seals were bad on the M.W.engine.So,I transferred everything back onto the original engine & now it has absolutely no spark.I've disconnected the switch wire & still no spark.I changed the switch wire & put a new one in & still no spark.I changed out the ignition module 3 times & still no spark.I've tried multiple new Champion & AC Delco plugs & still no spark.The only thing I haven't changed out yet is the FW.The saw ran for a short time with the FW that's on it now before the FW nut loosened up.This is driving me crazy.

Is the magnet still good. Did it loose its poles ?

 

[Rallyeguy]

Just released a new (Tried and tested) kit for the early flatback also known as a Mac-5 which is different than the typical.

These are used on the D30, D36, 1-40, 1-50, 1-60, 640, saws

McCulloch Early Flatback Carburetor kit

McCulloch Early Flatback Carburetor kit. Fits D30, D36, 1-40, 1-50, 1-60, & 640 Chainsaws.

www.oldsawshop.com

Bryan Gray did a nice video on prototype installation and testing:

The port he noticed missing has been added even thought it ran just fine without on the prototype he tested.

Not a common carb, but I'll be keeping them on the shelf and ready to ship.

 

[JKNW]

Took the Super 33 out and bucked a little bit of firewood this morning.

 

[edju1958]

Is the magnet still good. Did it loose its poles ?

Jeff,as far as I know the magnets arer still good.I checked them when I was doing the gap.

 

[hacskaroly]

The other day a coworker gave me a McCulloch D44. I am having fun pulling it apart and cleaning it and seeing what it needs. I finally got the fuel cap off and had a look inside. There was some gunk and varnish in the bottom and a loose spring. Looking at an IPL I see that I am missing a few parts out of the fuel tank including the fuel wick (51309). Does anyone happen to know what the thickness is on this wick? I am looking at getting some felt filter material from McMaster-Carr and cut my own. (pics of the saw below with .404 chain on it).

 

[edju1958]

You may be better off eliminating the wick filter & converting the saw over to a more conventional filter & line.

 

[heimannm]

The fuel pick up in the bottom of the tank is designed to work with the wick/filter, there is no real easy way to install a more conventional fuel line and fuel filter.

I have a few NOS wicks, I will try to remember and check the thickness and let you know.

The D-44 was quite a hot rod for a 72cc model in 1958.

Mark

 

[hacskaroly]

You may be better off eliminating the wick filter & converting the saw over to a more conventional filter & line.

I thought about that, but figured it would be fun to get this saw back running the way it was built to run. This is my first saw with a wick filter setup. I still have a number of parts I need to get for the fuel tank and looks like I will be able to find them on eBay. This thing also has a condenser on it, so that will be another first for me to mess with on here!

I have a few NOS wicks, I will try to remember and check the thickness and let you know.

The D-44 was quite a hot rod for a 72cc model in 1958.

Thanks, much appreciated your looking into this! I am excited to get this saw cleaned up and running again. Started to sharpen the chain, whoever had it before didn't do a very good job, looks like they used a file for a .325 chain... They might have used a chain grinder too as when I ran the file across it, it just skipped off, they apparently hardened the metal on a couple teeth. Luckily I was able to get under it a bit and work through it.

 

[edju1958]

I don't go hunting on FB Marketplace too often,but today when I went on Marketplace the 1st saw on the page was a 10-10S for $50.It's only about 30-40 minutes from me & I'll be going to have a look see on Sat.Supposedly the "saw ran when put away a few yrs.ago".No bar & chain,but for $50 I don't think I can go wrong.I'm going to assume that it was put away with fuel in it,so probably will need a carb rebuild at the least.

 

[heimannm]

D-44 wick/filter.







I have a few available if you'd rather buy one than try to make one.

Mark

 

[hacskaroly]

I got digging into the saw last night and finally got the clutch drum off, will need a new one, this one is worn pretty bad. Pulled off the muffler and found heavy carbon deposits inside. Noticed that there is scoring on the piston. This does not surprise me, the cylinder outside was pretty well packed with wood/oil mixture that semi-solidified and the governor was bypassed. Whoever had fun with this when it last ran, ran it hard and overheated the piston burning all of the lubricating oil. Surprisingly it still feels like it has some compression - rings look good, so they are not mashed in, but will know for sure whats up when I get the cylinder taken apart. It will need a new carb, found the low jet out and missing the o-ring/washer. I have not tested the points and condenser yet to see if they are working.

 

[hacskaroly]

but for $50 I don't think I can go wrong

Sounds like a deal for a fun project!! The most I have paid for a saw is $65, a Homelite SuperXL I picked up at an antique store. Got home, cleaned up the recoil, put gas in it and it started and ran great! You never know what you will find!

 

[cinci5]

I don't go hunting on FB Marketplace too often,but today when I went on Marketplace the 1st saw on the page was a 10-10S for $50.It's only about 30-40 minutes from me & I'll be going to have a look see on Sat.Supposedly the "saw ran when put away a few yrs.ago".No bar & chain,but for $50 I don't think I can go wrong.I'm going to assume that it was put away with fuel in it,so probably will need a carb rebuild at the least.

Good luck they have been dicking me around for months. Never would meet me to buy it. Told me $30 come get it.