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heimannm

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Still cleaning up saws from my garage to get the ready to go into the display. Today I finished up this 1-76. Compression is still very good, and it is very tempting to take it out to harvest some firewood but the lack of an automatic oil pump makes regular operation a bit of a problem.

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Seems like there was some indecision at the factory...let's make this a 1-76, no 1-86, no I think 1-76 after all...

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Mark
 

edju1958

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Anyone here got any "tricks" on getting a new oil line in on a 10 series?Yesterday was a real bugger on swapping out the oil line from my latest Super 10-10 to a new short block.Something I noticed on the Super 10-10A & Super 10-10 was they were both equipped with a reed muffler.
I'm asking this even after I got the line in because I have a PM10-10 that I'll be swapping over parts onto a brand new short block that I bought from Bob J.5 yrs.ago.
 

nbbt

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Another part of the next 3 saw plan, picked up today. Seems to be a 250.

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This saw is heavy. Not sure it would be my first choice for a day of cutting.
What is known is it has compression, looks to have most parts present. Starter cover was off, and missing 4 of the cover screws/bolts.
Needs a major cleanup.
The wire from the kill/run switch is disconnected and missing. Is it for shorting out or a circuit completion wire?
Have not tried to get it to fire yet.
 

heimannm

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The kill switch grounds the primary side of the ignition to kill the saw. Pull the muffler to see if you have a later thin ring model (appears to be), in which case you have something special.

Continuing on the 73...the gear case cover, starter, and clutch drum/rings are all beyond hope.

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Mark
 

heimannm

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The parts on the other saw were useful, except that the fuel tank mount on the gear case cover was broken off requiring a little help from McGyver.

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Saw is progressing...

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More photos and descriptions over on AS if you care to look.

Mark
 

nbbt

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Pull the muffler to see if you have a later thin ring model (appears to be), in which case you have something special.

Mark
Picture of the rings in the 250, they look kinda thin to me...
20230525_151854.jpg
Please explain the possible something special.
I am now looking for an IPL and service manual for this Mac 250 s/n:18792 I found the IPL and service manual over on Arb, if others are better or updated, it would be appreciated to read through those as well.
 
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nbbt

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heimannm

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The thin ring saws were better performers, the thin rings don't last as long but do run better than the thick ring versions.

Most of the 250 models had the longer "molded" yellow top that covered the air filter and the oil tank and were equipped with the thick rings.

Late model 250 saws had the shorter, black AF cover and thin ring.

I think there were also some transition saws with the long yellow top and thin rings. Scott Mueller's 250 at Baraboo always runs exceptionally well, I thought he mentioned it was a thin ring piston.

Mark
 

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Thanks Mark. I'm likely to have additional questions as this 250 is brought back to life.
The 85 yo gentleman stated it hadn't ran in about 15 years.

nbbt
 

Al Smith

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A 250 has plenty of power it also has a lot of weight .I've got three ,two that run and one that could .
After thought. I have one which is featured on chainsaw collectors corner I changed to 3/8" .050 chain using a NOS Oregon hard nose and an 8 tooth rim. Makes a whole lot of difference going from .404 chipper to 3/8" chisel
 
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nbbt

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There is also a 1-42 mentioned to be available. How does it compare to the 250?
I see the 250 is 7-9 years newer than the 1-42, lot's of specs sound similar...
Sorry Mark, I don't have a spare room to go look at them side by side to do my own comparison. And after all you are just down the block. Haha.
 
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heimannm

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Bore and stroke are the same and many parts will swap, but the 250 has needle bearings in the piston and the 1-42 just has the wrist pin with a slip fit to the piston. Many of the 1-42 saws came without the lower brace that connects the rear handle to the bottom of the saw. The 1-42 has a removable head, the 250 does not. I believe the porting on the 250 is better than on the 1-42 as well. A 1-45 or 1-46 are actually pretty close to the 250 performance wise.

Mark
 

heimannm

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I don't know how McCulloch came up with their model nomenclature, the earliest saws were somewhat descriptive, the 5-49 was theoretically 5 HP and 49 pounds, the 3-25 was 3 HP and 25 pounds, the 4-30...

Then 47, 49, 73, 77...

Then 1-4X, 1-5X, 1-6X, 1-7X, 1-8X, 1-9X; At the same time there were the D- models, -30, -36, 44, 55

Then the 3 digit saws, 200, 250, 300, 380, 440, 450, 550, 650, 660, 7XX, 8XX, 9XX

At the same time as the 3 digits were the 10 Series, 1-10, 2-10, 3-10, 4-10, 5-10, 6-10, 7-10, 10-10

CP (Cushion Power) models
SP (Super Pro) models
PM (Pro Mac) models

Power Mac models

Then the Titans and more Power Mac models

600 Series

300 Series

3200 were the last of the McCulloch designed and build saws as best I can determine.

Throw in some Supers, Silver Eagle, Double Eagle, and Special Edition saws just to assist in the marketing effort

I start losing track when the Jenn Feng and Husqvarna models start creeping in.

Please feel free to fill in any blanks and be sure to come to Dike some day and see them all.

Mark
 

heimannm

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I had the 73 together last week only to discover a crack in the gearcase cover that was weeping oil.

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Took the saw apart, cleaned the cover thoroughly and applied some J B Weld to the inside, back together and at least that leak was cured. Still weeps a little around the starter cover and now the primer is dripping a bit.

At least it was running again, much like before though with good top end but won't continue to run at idle.

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Mark
 
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