MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[nbbt]

The Viton tank gaskets are an excellent solution and no sealer is needed.

Try adding a felt washer to the cotter pin, even a felt washer with a steel washer to back it up, inside the tank.

Mark

My first attempt with felt from an eraser did not perform as hoped for.

I'll try the felt and a washer placed inside the tank, Felt sandwiched between the washer and tank body, correct?

@heimannm Thanks again.

 

[heimannm]

Yes, felt against the tank, washer to back it up.

Mark

 

[Vinnywv]

+1

+2. They work very well.

Ive found with several cork gaskets that if they leak, to drain the fuel out and leave it sit all night. Try again the next day. Sometimes they swell back up...sometimes you buy viton ones and stop worrying about them forever.

 

[heimannm]

The Viton will swell when exposed to fuel, if you take a saw apart that has the Viton gasket you may have to wait a day or two to reassemble depending on how much fuel it has absorbed.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Today was to be a day of testing flatback fuel pump diaphragms that a fellow member is making. I selected a 440 as the test platform since I knew it was fully functional last time I had it out...turns out that was a few years ago so I first spent about 4-1/2 hours getting a reliable spark back. Everthing tested fine but it would spark once then nothing...clean the points again and one spark then nothing. Finally I noticed what appeared to be a small pit in each of the points and liquid oozing out (I always clean them the carburetor cleaner after emery and plain paper). I replaced the points & condenser and had a great spark...then I noticed the flywheel key laying on the bench. Back apart again, replace they key, one spark then nothing... Apart again and I noticed the stop switch wire I'd disconnected was shorting the lead from the points...

Finally got the saw running with the original diaphragms and the oiler wouldn't work. I know it was working previously as I have photographic of the work I did on it when I first brought it home. Hard to believe that leaving it setting for 13 years would cause the oiler to stop working.



I tried to pressurize the oil tank while pumping the manual oiler (not easy with the generous oil tank vent) and finally got it to go and made my first test cut.

Switched out the OEM fuel pump diaphragm for one of Jeff's with 0.020" thick rubber and once I got the fuel system primed it would run, cut, even the automatic oil pump started working.

Two more diaphragms to test tomorrow, hopefully it will be downhill from here. Once the testing is done this saw will get a good cleanup and moved into the display.



I'll add some photos of the diaphragms when the testing is done.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

Today was to be a day of testing flatback fuel pump diaphragms that a fellow member is making. I selected a 440 as the test platform since I knew it was fully functional last time I had it out...turns out that was a few years ago so I first spent about 4-1/2 hours getting a reliable spark back. Everthing tested fine but it would spark once then nothing...clean the points again and one spark then nothing. Finally I noticed what appeared to be a small pit in each of the points and liquid oozing out (I always clean them the carburetor cleaner after emery and plain paper). I replaced the points & condenser and had a great spark...then I noticed the flywheel key laying on the bench. Back apart again, replace they key, one spark then nothing... Apart again and I noticed the stop switch wire I'd disconnected was shorting the lead from the points...

Finally got the saw running with the original diaphragms and the oiler wouldn't work. I know it was working previously as I have photographic of the work I did on it when I first brought it home. Hard to believe that leaving it setting for 13 years would cause the oiler to stop working.

View attachment 377479

I tried to pressurize the oil tank while pumping the manual oiler (not easy with the generous oil tank vent) and finally got it to go and made my first test cut.

Switched out the OEM fuel pump diaphragm for one of Jeff's with 0.020" thick rubber and once I got the fuel system primed it would run, cut, even the automatic oil pump started working.

Two more diaphragms to test tomorrow, hopefully it will be downhill from here. Once the testing is done this saw will get a good cleanup and moved into the display.

View attachment 377483

I'll add some photos of the diaphragms when the testing is done.

Mark

Good Lord Mark,now you're having my luck! Maybe karma for sabotaging my saws at night,Lol.

 

[Al Smith]

The problems with old saws can drive you bonkers .Some times you just have to walk away and clear your head .Been down that road many a time .

 

[heimannm]

Testing went much better today although the oiler continued to have issue off and on. I'll add some more photos of the diaphragms but the thicker rubber seems to have a problem. The saw started and ran just fine this morning and I made another cut with it, but upon disassembly I would not have much confidence in this one.







The thinner rubber material looked fine upon disassembly, but I only had it in the saw for a short while so I left it soaking in fuel to see how it looks after 24-36 hours.

After testing I gave the saw (440) a good cleaning so I could move it in to the display.

Following that we cleaned up a 795, 1-72, and a 1-70 today and got started on a couple more. The display is starting to fill up.

The 1-72 was a very low hour saw and had never been violated before today. It had cut some wood and was not cleaned very well back in the day...





Mark

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Testing went much better today although the oiler continued to have issue off and on. I'll add some more photos of the diaphragms but the thicker rubber seems to have a problem. The saw started and ran just fine this morning and I made another cut with it, but upon disassembly I would not have much confidence in this one.

View attachment 377615

View attachment 377616

View attachment 377617

The thinner rubber material looked fine upon disassembly, but I only had it in the saw for a short while so I left it soaking in fuel to see how it looks after 24-36 hours.

After testing I gave the saw (440) a good cleaning so I could move it in to the display.

Following that we cleaned up a 795, 1-72, and a 1-70 today and got started on a couple more. The display is starting to fill up.

The 1-72 was a very low hour saw and had never been violated before today. It had cut some wood and was not cleaned very well back in the day...

View attachment 377621

View attachment 377622

Mark

Thats a unique roller nose.

 

[Serioussam]

Too bad this one was a little too far from me , it went cheap

 

[heimannm]

The roller nose bar on the 1-72 was not quite so pretty when it arrived a few years ago.



I've just about worn out the first 40 grit drum on my Bauer Surface Preparation Tool after maybe 15 bars altogether.







Mark

 

[heimannm]

RARE! MCCULLOCH, ROLLER NOSE, CHAINSAW, BAR, .058, 10MM SLOT, 22" & 1/2 OVERAL | eBay

MCCULLOCH, ROLLER NOSE,CHAINSAW, BAR. 058, 10MM SLOT, 22" & 1/2 OVERAL, 20" CUT LENGTH. It was removed from a McCulloch Model 1-40. I believe this was the original bar on that saw. The bar is straight and the rails are clean.

www.ebay.com

 

[Maintenance Chief]

RARE! MCCULLOCH, ROLLER NOSE, CHAINSAW, BAR, .058, 10MM SLOT, 22" & 1/2 OVERAL | eBay

MCCULLOCH, ROLLER NOSE,CHAINSAW, BAR. 058, 10MM SLOT, 22" & 1/2 OVERAL, 20" CUT LENGTH. It was removed from a McCulloch Model 1-40. I believe this was the original bar on that saw. The bar is straight and the rails are clean.

www.ebay.com

Thats more than what I spend on mosts saws! Haha
Still pretty interesting

 

[cinci5]

Today was to be a day of testing flatback fuel pump diaphragms that a fellow member is making. I selected a 440 as the test platform since I knew it was fully functional last time I had it out...turns out that was a few years ago so I first spent about 4-1/2 hours getting a reliable spark back. Everthing tested fine but it would spark once then nothing...clean the points again and one spark then nothing. Finally I noticed what appeared to be a small pit in each of the points and liquid oozing out (I always clean them the carburetor cleaner after emery and plain paper). I replaced the points & condenser and had a great spark...then I noticed the flywheel key laying on the bench. Back apart again, replace they key, one spark then nothing... Apart again and I noticed the stop switch wire I'd disconnected was shorting the lead from the points...

Finally got the saw running with the original diaphragms and the oiler wouldn't work. I know it was working previously as I have photographic of the work I did on it when I first brought it home. Hard to believe that leaving it setting for 13 years would cause the oiler to stop working.

View attachment 377479

I tried to pressurize the oil tank while pumping the manual oiler (not easy with the generous oil tank vent) and finally got it to go and made my first test cut.

Switched out the OEM fuel pump diaphragm for one of Jeff's with 0.020" thick rubber and once I got the fuel system primed it would run, cut, even the automatic oil pump started working.

Two more diaphragms to test tomorrow, hopefully it will be downhill from here. Once the testing is done this saw will get a good cleanup and moved into the display.

View attachment 377483

I'll add some photos of the diaphragms when the testing is done.

Mark

Thanks for doing this Mark I plan on sending some metering diaphragm’s when I get back would you be able to test them, I plan on doing one aluminum disc and one stainless disc for now.
Jeff

 

[heimannm]

Can do Jeff.

Today was round 2 of testing BP-1 gasket/diaphragm sets from Brian Genrich. I had some problems in round 1 with leaking at the seams. Brian has made some new ones using different gasket material and now I have two BP-1 runners. I will need to find some additional AR-8 chain or locate a nice roller nose bar so I can switch it over to .404 as the current chain on #2 is just about done.





Number 2 has a few carburetor issues still and will flood itself at idle some times, but I am happy to have this one running with the Homelite rings, Czech seals, and Brian Genrich carburetor gaskets & diaphragms. I am still looking for one more good carburetor, or at least a good carburetor body as I believe I have enough parts on hand to get one more up to the point of running.

Mark

 

[Al Smith]

Material to make diaphragms poses a question .What type and how thick .Buna -N should work but what about a source of thin flexable sheets ? I've got sheets of it 1/8 " thick but have never found a source of thin stuff .Somebody must make it other than using repair kits for pressure switchs which would get costly .Maybe Viton or something else .I've got a chart in one of my books stating the combatability with oils,fuels etc .but it's never gone farther than thinking about it .

 

[heimannm]

I was able to source some 0.006" thick nitrile (Buna-N) covered nylon from American Rubber Products and have been providing bits of it to others as they produce diaphragms for testing.

I have not found a good source for the Teflon covered fiberglass material that is also used for some fuel pump diaphragms but I know that Jeff (cinci5) has a source.

Mark

 

[Al Smith]

I'm not certain what was used on older style cam operated fuel pumps used on automobiles before electric pumps were used .What ever is used now for replacement parts might have formulated synthetic rubber which would or should hold up better for ethanol gasoline I would think ..Dang older style would leak and pump gasoline into the crankcase and thin the oil .It would appear to "make oil ".I knocked the main bearings from a 260 cubic inch Olds engine once by not paying attention .

 

[cinci5]

I was able to source some 0.006" thick nitrile (Buna-N) covered nylon from American Rubber Products and have been providing bits of it to others as they produce diaphragms for testing.

I have not found a good source for the Teflon covered fiberglass material that is also used for some fuel pump diaphragms but I know that Jeff (cinci5) has a source.

Mark

I was successful in making 55067C but the aluminum disc “ I felt was to soft “ and threw them out. I have and will use a new aluminum grade and also stainless grade that I have in stock for disc’s.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I'm not certain what was used on older style cam operated fuel pumps used on automobiles before electric pumps were used .What ever is used now for replacement parts might have formulated synthetic rubber which would or should hold up better for ethanol gasoline I would think ..Dang older style would leak and pump gasoline into the crankcase and thin the oil .It would appear to "make oil ".I knocked the main bearings from a 260 cubic inch Olds engine once by not paying attention .

I filled a 318LA till gas shot out the dipstick tube,that was exciting.