MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[edju1958]

This O ring is from under the oil pump on an E.B.2.1.I had the pump apart completely today & see no reason why it won't work,but yet it doesn't.The hose to the bar pad & the opening at the bar pad are clear.The only thing I can possibly think of is the O ring has become flattened & it's possibly not sealing?I've got a new oil pump coming from Mark.I also believe the oil tank isn't venting.

 

[edju1958]

I finally got the 24 in.chain for the 5-10 today.It's stamped 72 on the DL which indicates it's an .050 gauge chain,but it acts like it's an .058 chain.The bar is an .050 gauge as well.I've been working the chain in the groove & it's getting better.The Stihl chain that was too long didn't have any problems like this.Wondering if the chain was stamped incorrectly?Here are pics of the saw.

 

[heimannm]

A brand new bar may have some paint in the groove, strange that one new chain would work and another would not...

The o-ring is an 021 or -021 or #021 depending on whose system identifies it. Standard part you can find most anywhere including McMaster-Carr if you want to buy 100 pieces.



Somone brought in this SP81 today and said it wouldn't run properly...I thought it did O.K.



Keep your cookies thin to make the test log last longer...wood doesn't just grow on trees you know.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

I was told that there might be a stuck check ball/valve in the pump body.The thing is I tried 2 different pump bodies.Maybe run them through my UC with a high acetone solvent,pumps disassembled of course.When I push on the piston rapidly the oil in the pump wants to come back out of the inlet elbow.The check valve ios in the inlet elbow.

 

[heimannm]

There are two check valves on the 300 Series saws, a ball and spring internally, and the disc more or less externally. Since the Mini Mac models are gravitiy feeed to the oil pump they only have the internal ball and spring.

Mini Mac



300 Series



Getting that steel insert out can be a trick, I use pliers and a twist and pull motion. It may require chucking it in a drill with some emery cloth to remove any burrs created in the process so the adjuster sleeve will move freely.

When you put it back together, make sure the opening in the insert (groove with holes) is aligned with the oil inlet.



There was a service bulletin issued that noted a number of these oil pumps left the factory with the insert not pressed in to the proper location. Checking this 300 Series pump I find the insert should be pressed in 9/32" from the edge of the pump body.



If oil is coming back out the inlet, it suggests to me the ball is stuck. Try shooting a little carburetor or brake cleaner in there while operating the piston. You can also pressurize the insert and block the inlet with your finger to verify the oil can flow to the outlet.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I ran out of room for photos above, this one shows the insert pressed to the proper location. You can see the groove with the inlet hole perfectly aligned with the inlet to the oil pump.



Mark

 

[Al Smith]

I've had zero success at repairing the pumps on mini's and I have the rebuild kits .Those I just bypassed the pumps and used the thumb oiler .On the 10 series I think after a while they tend to leak oil into the crankcase . A kerosene flush might help some .Many might puff a little white smoke on a start up but still do a good job of oiling .I've also had zero luck with the diaphragm pumps on PM 610's .Just replaced the pumps .I set the oiler up on the McCulloch's just like every saw I own no matter who made them ,wide open flow .

 

[edju1958]

I'd have to agree with you Mark in that the check ball is stuck on both pump bodies.One of the bodies has been laying around for almost 4 yrs.The other pump body that was originally in the saw.....well who knows how long that'd been inoperative? If you'll recall,that pump body had a broken piston.

 

[edju1958]

I finally got that pesky chain to run smoothly in the bar groove on the 5-10.I just kept working the chain till it moved freely.Probably should've worn gloves while doing so,only minor cuts on hands.This bar must've been left in the paint vat during lunch.I've had bars that had paint in the groove before & I can usually just use the bar plate (it fits perfectly) to scrape on through & it's good to go,not this one.The DLs wouldn't even fit into the groove unless I tapped on the cutters.Once the bar & chain were mounted I was able to move the chain on the bar freely.Fired up the saw & gave it some oil & all is well.Just needed some elbow grease.

 

[Squareground3691]

Sharping up the Mac’s on a rainy Saturday not much else to do .

 

[Dream]

Sharping up the Mac’s on a rainy Saturday not much else to do . View attachment 357190

Like the axes and the yellow goodness.
Got 5 or 6 decent old axe heads I'm thinking of hafting for my son and his friends as gifts once the grandson is born in January.
Got the fuel leak fixed on the PM700 today. Just pulled the fuel line out of the tank bulkhead and wrapped some Teflon tape around it.
Then went out and bucked up a little dead Red Oak.

 

[Dream]

Like the axes and the yellow goodness.
Got 5 or 6 decent old axe heads I'm thinking of hafting for my son and his friends as gifts once the grandson is born in January.
Got the fuel leak fixed on the PM700 today. Just pulled the fuel line out of the tank bulkhead and wrapped some Teflon tape around it.
Then went out and bucked up a little dead Red Oak.
View attachment 357244 View attachment 357245 View attachment 357246

Also found the screws for the pump side of the carb cover had come loose.
Probably didnt give those enough "love" when I put a carb kit in it a few years ago.

 

[Squareground3691]

Like the axes and the yellow goodness.
Got 5 or 6 decent old axe heads I'm thinking of hafting for my son and his friends as gifts once the grandson is born in January.
Got the fuel leak fixed on the PM700 today. Just pulled the fuel line out of the tank bulkhead and wrapped some Teflon tape around it.
Then went out and bucked up a little dead Red Oak.
View attachment 357244 View attachment 357245 View attachment 357246

Yea do enjoy making the axes that would be a great gift idea for sure . Thanks

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Like the axes and the yellow goodness.
Got 5 or 6 decent old axe heads I'm thinking of hafting for my son and his friends as gifts once the grandson is born in January.
Got the fuel leak fixed on the PM700 today. Just pulled the fuel line out of the tank bulkhead and wrapped some Teflon tape around it.
Then went out and bucked up a little dead Red Oak.
View attachment 357244 View attachment 357245 View attachment 357246

Thats a really nice saw! Definitely a keeper.

 

[fossil]

Like the axes and the yellow goodness.
Got 5 or 6 decent old axe heads I'm thinking of hafting for my son and his friends as gifts once the grandson is born in January.
Got the fuel leak fixed on the PM700 today. Just pulled the fuel line out of the tank bulkhead and wrapped some Teflon tape around it.
Then went out and bucked up a little dead Red Oak.
View attachment 357244 View attachment 357245 View attachment 357246

I have a 700 of that vintage, 600116. Interesting change (guessing mine is later) in the fuel line setup.

 

[Steve]

I have a 700 of that vintage, 600116. Interesting change (guessing mine is later) in the fuel line setup.

View attachment 357298

Wow Tim! I have never seen a tank designed specifically to use bulk line. Only seen them with the McCulloch retrofit kit with the aluminum bushing. Thanks for sharing that!

 

[Dream]

Thats a really nice saw! Definitely a keeper.

Thanks Ira.
I bought that one at a local shop several years ago.
Someone brought it in and never came to pick it up.
Had an 18" bar on it.
Seems to be a very low hour saw.

 

[Dream]

I have a 700 of that vintage, 600116. Interesting change (guessing mine is later) in the fuel line setup.

View attachment 357298

Never seen one with that setup.
I like it.
Looks like its still running the same SDC(44?), but they changed the inlet fitting to fit bulk line along with the smaller hole in the tank bulkhead.

 

[Dream]

I have a 700 of that vintage, 600116. Interesting change (guessing mine is later) in the fuel line setup.

View attachment 357298

The carb on mine is stamped with a date code of 1985, so I'm guessing thats a pretty reliable way to guess its age.
Has the kickback warning sticker on the tank ahead of the fuel cap, and the retainer chain for the caps.
Black recoil, oil tank, and clutch cover tells me it SHOULD be close to that era of saws, but ive been fooled before.

 

[fossil]

The carb on mine is stamped with a date code of 1985, so I'm guessing thats a pretty reliable way to guess its age.
Has the kickback warning sticker on the tank ahead of the fuel cap, and the retainer chain for the caps.
Black recoil, oil tank, and clutch cover tells me it SHOULD be close to that era of saws, but ive been fooled before.

Here's the ID plate Mod# 600116-02 Ser No. 11-100360


My oil tank and cover are grey. The crankcase / cylinder is bare metal.

I think the carb is a 44 but all I can see stamped there is F6 side closest to needles and 88 on the other.

The air filter knob is steel, knurled and slotted.




The starter handle isn't likely correct. It's hard plastic.

Interesting note, I just noticed I bought that saw on December 5, 2016 for $30 CDN. It's a very good runner!