MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[jacob j.]

I make a blank outer plare when running a multi mount roller nose bar for the same reason. It'll pore oil out if it can pass through the outer bar plate.

I had that same problem when running the multi or universal mount bars on the large frame Macs. My fix was to take an old Homie 925 bar plate that was cracked and just cut it down. I ran
that between the universal bar and the outer 125 bar plate.

 

[Al Smith]

I've got one or two Stihl mount bars I have used on both the 125's plus the avatar saw which is a Homelite 2100S .Those have separate oil holes and unlike the McCulloch bars don't use the top adjuster hole for the oil .Those are 36" bars which are almost a perfect balance on these large saws . The 48" usable in the avatar is over kill in Ohio as I've only used it maybe 4-5 times .

 

[Squareground3691]

Mac SP125 king of the big wood like having Cummings diesel strapped to ur hands

 

[Dream]

You should take up professional photography. Looks way better than in person.. Maybe you could do the same for those of us with weathered old mugs.

LOL!
Ive tried that, and I still look like a fat bucket of poo. I dont think there's a "filter" for that, except maybe a paper bag over my head.

 

[edju1958]

Ed that looks like a mismatched oil tank. 70cc oil tank. They have larger bearing seat due to the aluminum ring around the bearing itself. The smaller 54cc saws did not have that larger area

Kinda makes sense now.I had this engine laying around,I have no idea where it came from.It was seized & I thought it was a 10-10 engine.I figured I could use the crank in my 2-10 with the buggered crank keyway.I got the piston out after a lot of beating,but the piston & cylinder are both toast.When the piston came out I thought it was rather big for a 54cc piston.In short,I have a good 70cc crank if you ever need one.

 

[Vinnywv]

I can see why it was toast. Lots of potential for an air leak.

 

[edju1958]

No,No Vinny,the saw wasn't like that,I tried putting the oil tank on a 10-10 engine not knowing the tank came off a 70cc saw.
I pulled apart a 10-10 that was seized & was gonna use that oil tank on the good 10-10.Come to find out that oil tank has onle ONE screw hole for the auto oil pump.I just can't seem to win,Lol.

I did my first ring job on a 10-10 today.I bought the saw (and a 7-10) from a member here about 3 yrs.ago.I was out cutting with the 10-10 & it wouldn't restart after I shut it down for refueling.I took a compression test on it & it was only around 100 psi.I pulled the saw apart last fall & it sat till today.I got the rings in,replaced the clutch side seal,& it's back together (engine).I think I gopt one of the last ring sets that Bob J.had for the 10-10.Don't worry,I cleaned the carbon off the piston top.

 

[Scott Kelsey]

I am hoping for some help here. I just picked up this SP81 and I believe it needs seals. Does anyone have numbers for say an SKF? Thank you in advance for any help.

 

[Steve]

I am hoping for some help here. I just picked up this SP81 and I believe it needs seals. Does anyone have numbers for say an SKF? Thank you in advance for any help.

PTO National 253747
Flywheel National 471551

 

[heimannm]

PTO SKF 6119
Flywheel SKF 5756

 

[Al Smith]

PTO Mc 110260 /CR -SKF 6120 FW Mc 61618 /CR SKF 5480 these are taken from the master interchange book from Bearings Inc .Other options could be different lip code but all should work .

 

[Scott Kelsey]

Thank you everyone

 

[fossil]

PTO Mc 110260 /CR -SKF 6120 FW Mc 61618 /CR SKF 5480 these are taken from the master interchange book from Bearings Inc .Other options could be different lip code but all should work .

CR 5480 has gone obsolete and has been replaced by SKF 14X35X7 HMS4 R rubber coated seal single lip with garter spring

 

[Al Smith]

Thanks for that info however they can still be found NOS ,flea Bay .I think this subject has came up before noting by generic sizes what could be used .The conversations about seals are interesting with regards to alternatives often findings to replace some seals long thought to be no longer made .Stihl for example often used odd ball sizes that were thought to be OEM only .One example being the elusive PTO side seal seal used on the 042/048 models .Stihl in the IPL shows the size which is 20 x 35.8 x 4 and can be found for a reasonable price using those size parameters . Now that said in this example using the McCulloch numbers it seems some of the flea bay sellers are rather proud of them judging by the prices .

 

[heimannm]

6120 is a single lip seal, 6119 is double lip.

Mark

 

[fossil]

6120 is a single lip seal, 6119 is double lip.

Mark

Great lip service Mark! (sorry, I could not resist)

 

[heimannm]

We expect the boys from up north to be a bit lippy at times...



Mark

 

[edju1958]

I didn't get much done with the 10-10A that got new rings the other day.I got the points box on with points & condenser,FW & coil on & clutch & drum on.All of that put on only to find it has no spark.I put a chip on & now it has all kinds of spark.This saw is an odd ball for sure.I noticed the tank insulator had smaller than usual holes where the bolts go in to hold it to the engine.I ended up forcing the regular size bolts in & the insulator broke.I figuired no problem,I have another new insulator.I put that on & tried to screw the bolts into the engine & it was a no go.The 2 bolts used are smaller in diameter.I found 2 bolts that'll work,but I need to cut them down to 1 3/8 in.long.The one bolt that goes in the rear to hold the tank handle on is the same - smaller than normal.I can't find the original bolts as I took this saw apart almost 6 months ago.I could've sworn I put all the hardware in a bag.

 

[Steve]

I didn't get much done with the 10-10A that got new rings the other day.I got the points box on with points & condenser,FW & coil on & clutch & drum on.All of that put on only to find it has no spark.I put a chip on & now it has all kinds of spark.This saw is an odd ball for sure.I noticed the tank insulator had smaller than usual holes where the bolts go in to hold it to the engine.I ended up forcing the regular size bolts in & the insulator broke.I figuired no problem,I have another new insulator.I put that on & tried to screw the bolts into the engine & it was a no go.The 2 bolts used are smaller in diameter.I found 2 bolts that'll work,but I need to cut them down to 1 3/8 in.long.The one bolt that goes in the rear to hold the tank handle on is the same - smaller than normal.I can't find the original bolts as I took this saw apart almost 6 months ago.I could've sworn I put all the hardware in a bag.

I have had a few 10 series that have been the smaller 10-24 bolts. Most are the larger 12-24 threads. The 10-10 that I put a nos engine in got me as the original engine was 10-24 and the new engine was 12-24. Ended up pulling the threads out of the new cylinder with the smaller bolts.

 

[Al Smith]

#12-24 are not the easiest things to find ,kind of a bastard size . I might mention that size was used on the "pull holes" on the flywheel of one of my Mac 125c's .How that ever happened remains a mystery because it took taping them out to 5/16" to get enough meat to pull that flywheel .It did however explain why at some time or another they used an "atom arc " trigger device instead of the fully intact points system I found under the flywheel . Most likely at the time it was the easiest thing to do I suppose .Being old school of course I prefer the points type which BTW it did run a tad better using them .