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Woodslasher

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Bronze(nylon?) Bushing, nylon cover plate, and retainer.
@Steve sent me the other stuff.
Can't remember if ive got the pawls.
Have to look.
Are these parts in the RH recoil assembly itself? I have a mostly complete 2-10 powerhead, but no starter/clutch cover.
 

Steve

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Are these parts in the RH recoil assembly itself? I have a mostly complete 2-10 powerhead, but no starter/clutch cover.

Yes. I believe he is missing the metal shield, the Teflon bushing in the starter pulley, and the large snap ring that holds the shield in the housing. I believe I sent him the rest of the parts.

@Dream

chainsawparts010_8922040_1024x1024~2.jpg
 

edju1958

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If you still need those parts you can get them from Bob Johnson - 607-638-9297.He's not expensive to buy from.The nylon bushing is around $1You can buy a complete starter assembly for around $42 (new)they're selling used starters on Feebay for around $40,if ya can even find 'em. .
 

Steve

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If you still need those parts you can get them from Bob Johnson - 607-638-9297.He's not expensive to buy from.The nylon bushing is around $1You can buy a complete starter assembly for around $42 (new)they're selling used starters on Feebay for around $40,if ya can even find 'em. .


Problem is Brent is like me and a cheap azz! :D @Dream
 

Al Smith

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Of all the recoils I've ever worked on the right hand starters on the early 10 series saws are by far the least user friendly contraptions I've ever encountered . You need about 4 hands the size of an 8 year old girl and fingers as long as a small octopi .Somebody was asleep at the switch when they built those things IMO .
 

Steve

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Of all the recoils I've ever worked on the right hand starters on the early 10 series saws are by far the least user friendly contraptions I've ever encountered . You need about 4 hands the size of an 8 year old girl and fingers as long as a small octopi .Somebody was asleep at the switch when they built those things IMO .


Worst part is the spring, but it really isn't that bad. Just coil the spring up and hold it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Set the spring into the holding channel and slip the pliers out. Super easy, barely an inconvenience!
 

Al Smith

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No I have not indeed .I only own one back pack which is Stihl BR 400 .I do however have 5 or six others which are hand helds of various manufacturers .Mac being one of them which works fine after I rebuilt the carb, freebie once again . I get a lot of that stuff and lots of it gets passed on .
 

Al Smith

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Funny how this stuff is about like stray cats, they just show up .During the lock down in addition to doing two complete rebuilds on a pair of Partner p-100's and two partial repairs on two concrete saws saws I did 5 or 6 weed eaters .One several years prior was a small displacement flex shaft McCulloch I gave to my buddy's wife ,which they aren't really married .He's tree trimer and all he had were straight shaft Stihls which she being a small woman she could not handle .I put a blade head on it so she didn't have to deal with a danged string head .Ran like a top ,you can't kill them unless they get straight gassed .
 

edju1958

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Hi gang,I'm working on putting a short block in my 10-10A that I got from Bob Johnson about 2 1/2 yrs.ago.The new short block comes with a new oil tank that has the hole drilled in the front for the allen screw to screw into the fuel tank underside.My problem is that when I took the ol;d fuel tank off I saw there was no screw hole or screw that went into the fuel tank.Is that hole being there going to cause an oiol leak?Also,I tried to turn the new engine over by hand using the crankshaft & it wouldn't turn,is that normal?
 

Steve

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Hi gang,I'm working on putting a short block in my 10-10A that I got from Bob Johnson about 2 1/2 yrs.ago.The new short block comes with a new oil tank that has the hole drilled in the front for the allen screw to screw into the fuel tank underside.My problem is that when I took the ol;d fuel tank off I saw there was no screw hole or screw that went into the fuel tank.Is that hole being there going to cause an oiol leak?Also,I tried to turn the new engine over by hand using the crankshaft & it wouldn't turn,is that normal?

Yes, that hole will cause a leak. You could plug it with a big blob of silicone which is the easy way or you could tap it and run a screw in from the inside with some sealer on the treads. Then cut the screw flush with the outside.

If the short block has been sitting forever in a possible high humidity location it is possible for the rings to slightly rust to the iron bore or for the piston to slightly oxidize to the bore. Will it budge by hand if you put a flywheel on for leverage?
 

edju1958

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I couldn't go to bed not knowing,so I went out & got a flywheel & put on the shaft & it does turn over,but........this short block won't work on a 10-10A RHS.The shaft that the clutchj goes on isn't keyed & I think the shaft on the FW side is keyed in a different spot than the 10-10A shaft is.Apparently this short block is for a PM 10-10.The PM 10-10 uses a different FW,slightly bigger.I'd have to get a clutch for a PM 10-10 & a starter/recoil & most likely use a different fuel tank handle that uses a flat filter.By time it's all done I'd have $250 or more into this freakin' sawe.
 

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I couldn't go to bed not knowing,so I went out & got a flywheel & put on the shaft & it does turn over,but........this short block won't work on a 10-10A RHS.The shaft that the clutchj goes on isn't keyed & I think the shaft on the FW side is keyed in a different spot than the 10-10A shaft is.Apparently this short block is for a PM 10-10.The PM 10-10 uses a different FW,slightly bigger.I'd have to get a clutch for a PM 10-10 & a starter/recoil & most likely use a different fuel tank handle that uses a flat filter.By time it's all done I'd have $250 or more into this freakin' sawe.

Don't give up yet. I've got some options to make this work just fine. Just have to dig them out to be sure!
 

edju1958

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The only option I could think of is changing the cranks & that's not happening.
 

Steve

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The only option I could think of is changing the cranks & that's not happening.

There are other options, I just have to verify on some stuff when I get home tonight.

Does the crank have the cam for the points on it?
 

Al Smith

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These things are easy to work on A lot more simple than a Stihl for sure . Now about the bushings for starter drums I just turned them out of bearing brass . They will likely last forever .Of course if you don't have a lathe or a buddy who does it's kind of hard to do . As far as the crankshaft on a righty as far as I know it should fit in a lefty start block .They bearings might need shuffled around because unless I'm mistaken there were a few variations .
 
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