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Steve

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Merc man, I've got two oem carbs that'll work for the 066. A wj-10a and a new old stock Bing. Pm me if your interested.

In McCulloch related stuff, I have a complete PM700 project saw that I'm going to get rid of if anyone is interested. It was one that I had intended to fix up and put a full wrap on but life situations dictate I sell it. I have a new carb/gasket kit for it as well.
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heimannm

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I have an interesting challenge on a CP125 project right now. The tapped holes for the muffler are too large for a 5/16" or 8 mm screws but a 3/8" screw won't go in. I even tried the HeliCoil tap for the 5/16" and 8 mm and they don't fit either. What else could it be???

Mark
 

Bigmac

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I have an interesting challenge on a CP125 project right now. The tapped holes for the muffler are too large for a 5/16" or 8 mm screws but a 3/8" screw won't go in. I even tried the HeliCoil tap for the 5/16" and 8 mm and they don't fit either. What else could it be???

Mark
So the holes in the inserts won’t hold a 5/16 but a 3/8 is too big? You could replace the inserts to stock
 

Bigmac

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I have an interesting challenge on a CP125 project right now. The tapped holes for the muffler are too large for a 5/16" or 8 mm screws but a 3/8" screw won't go in. I even tried the HeliCoil tap for the 5/16" and 8 mm and they don't fit either. What else could it be???

Mark
It could be a 9mm, many different pitches
 

fossil

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Are you able to get a Vernier in there to measure the threaded hole diameter? That might help tracking it down.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Special bolt for special insert?

Remove the inserts, fill and re-tap for conventional fasteners -- even the inserts.
 

Bigmac

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The insert is special, But the muffler bold is standard. I made new inserts for my 797, because someone had tapped them bigger
 

heimannm

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I thought I would go ahead and drill & tap for 3/8" fasteners...the 5/16" drill bit just dropped right in...so I gauged the threads with a 10-24 screw and they appeared to be 24 TPI so I ran a 3/8-24 tap down each one and the threads cleaned up nicely. I am guessing the threads were somehow peened over which is why the 3/8-24 bolt would not thread in.

Next obstacle, the only 3/8-24 threaded rod I had on hand was pretty hard and impossible to tap the 10-24 threads for the muffler bolts so, I have some softer threaded rod coming from McMaster Carr. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow and I can make some new inserts.

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It is a little rough looking and pieced together but the cylinder was in excellent condition, bore is straight and true and spot on for size. I think it should be a strong runner.

Mark
 

Bigmac

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I thought I would go ahead and drill & tap for 3/8" fasteners...the 5/16" drill bit just dropped right in...so I gauged the threads with a 10-24 screw and they appeared to be 24 TPI so I ran a 3/8-24 tap down each one and the threads cleaned up nicely. I am guessing the threads were somehow peened over which is why the 3/8-24 bolt would not thread in.

Next obstacle, the only 3/8-24 threaded rod I had on hand was pretty hard and impossible to tap the 10-24 threads for the muffler bolts so, I have some softer threaded rod coming from McMaster Carr. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow and I can make some new inserts.

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It is a little rough looking and pieced together but the cylinder was in excellent condition, bore is straight and true and spot on for size. I think it should be a strong runner.

Mark
That’s going to be a nice saw! That’s basically what I did to get my 797 going, I used grade 5 bolts and drilled and tapped them, and cut the ends off, that way the start threads were clean, and then cut slots like the factory inserts, I use a 10mm tap for that. That’s the closest I could get to matching the factory threads. I have terry always replace the inserts when send cylinders in, so he must have a supply, I don’t remember seeing any for sale on eBay
 

PogoInTheWoods

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What is the actual importance of the inserts? Are there flanges on the muffler or gasket that sit inside the fastener holes for added stability or something?
 

heimannm

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They are just threaded inserts that should sit flush or just below the surface. The purpose is to provide a more substantial thread for the screws that hold the muffler in place. I think even many of the 10 Series saws came from the factory with a Heli Coil type insert for the muffler screws.

Mark
 

heimannm

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The threaded rod arrived, I made the inserts, the muffler is now installed. Tomorrow I will hunt up a decent clutch and drum. I could still get a whiff of solvent from the fuel tank from the Red Kote treatment so I will hold off putting any fuel in it for another day or two.


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Mark
 

Bigmac

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JB, Alumaweld, a little paint and poor lighting. I may be ready for Craigslist sales.

Mark
That’s not Craigslist, that’s eBay! And for parts not running....probably $1500+
It’s a nice saw Mark! Let’s get some videos of her cutting!!
 

Bigmac

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It’s also cool to a cp tank with the high idle detent. I have seen a few now, so they must have transitioned out somewhere in the run, and even the cp125s comes both ways. Just interesting! Unless it was a replacement tank, I don’t know if the made cp replacement tanks or just all black or all yellow sp tanks
 

heimannm

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The spot is there for the high idle throttle latch, but the trigger does not have the screw to engage it. I even made a bushing so I could drill out the clearance hole for the longer throttle latch, but after I installed it I discovered I still could not latch the throttle for starting. I guess I will have to find another trigger.

Mark
 

jacob j.

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It’s also cool to a cp tank with the high idle detent. I have seen a few now, so they must have transitioned out somewhere in the run, and even the cp125s comes both ways. Just interesting! Unless it was a replacement tank, I don’t know if the made cp replacement tanks or just all black or all yellow sp tanks

All the CPs I've ever seen had the bi-color tanks. I don't know if there was any rhyme or reason to the color schemes on the SP saws but the CPs were pretty consistent I think.

The spot is there for the high idle throttle latch, but the trigger does not have the screw to engage it. I even made a bushing so I could drill out the clearance hole for the longer throttle latch, but after I installed it I discovered I still could not latch the throttle for starting. I guess I will have to find another trigger.

Mark

I'll send a trigger set-up for the high idle latch your way Mark, I've got many extras. Let me know if you need anything else.
 
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