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Mac131

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This is a 7-10 but the principle of the De Stroking Port or DSP is the same.

With the muffler off you can see the working parts as well as the port from the DSP valve to the muffler where the compression is redirected when the valve is open.

View attachment 286755

With the tank off you can see the top of the valve.

View attachment 286756

And the valve removed.

View attachment 286757

You will need to make some careful measurements down the bore of the DSP valve in order to come up with a suitable plug. If I make it to the other shop today and remember, I will try to get some photos of a plus someone else made for a similar saw.

Mark

Ahhh this is starting to make sense now. Thanks for showing, I was still trying to wrap my brain around how it worked. Yeah I think the best option is to plug it.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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heimannm

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Here is one example of the DSP valve and the modified socket head cap screw to block it. As long as the tapered end bottoms out in the valve seat the head of the screw does not necessarily have to abut the boss on the cylinder.

20210312_150257.jpg

Of course you will have to tap the port to allow the screw to install.

Mark
 

Mac131

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Finished the port work and assembly on the power mac 6. Hoping to have it running in a day or two. Final numbers appear to compare with stock macs. Polished the exhaust ports and did extensive transfer porting. Port timing is:

Exhaust - 103 deg ATDC
Blowdown - 121 deg ATDC
Intake - 61 deg BTDC
Squish - 39 thousandths

I will compare it to my stock power mac 6 to see how it does.

Jeff
 

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Maintenance Chief

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Finished the port work and assembly on the power mac 6. Hoping to have it running in a day or two. Final numbers appear to compare with stock macs. Polished the exhaust ports and did extensive transfer porting. Port timing is:

Exhaust - 103 deg ATDC
Blowdown - 121 deg ATDC
Intake - 61 deg BTDC
Squish - 39 thousandths

I will compare it to my stock power mac 6 to see how it does.

Jeff
Id really like to see a comparison video.
 

Al Smith

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The good thing is if the DSP valve gets inoperative on the 70 cc saws,6-10 ,7-10 they don't pull over that hard only being 70 cc's .Now it might be another story on a 125 ,they won't pull over easy .On the 82's,850 etc they would be tad hard to pull over but they are a different style than the poppit style used on the 7-10 .I managed to flood an sp-81 and attempted a drop start except the DSP closed early and knocked me off of my balance and down I went and just barely missed falling on the chain .Had it started I could have cut my arm off .BTW that was and will be the last time ever do that again .
 

Mac131

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The good thing is if the DSP valve gets inoperative on the 70 cc saws,6-10 ,7-10 they don't pull over that hard only being 70 cc's .Now it might be another story on a 125 ,they won't pull over easy .On the 82's,850 etc they would be tad hard to pull over but they are a different style than the poppit style used on the 7-10 .I managed to flood an sp-81 and attempted a drop start except the DSP closed early and knocked me off of my balance and down I went and just barely missed falling on the chain .Had it started I could have cut my arm off .BTW that was and will be the last time ever do that again .
Good grief! Yeah I bet that freaked you out a bit...
 

Mac131

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So one with dsp and one with the later decomp valve? Interesting....
 

heimannm

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The 300 Series saws are not bad performance wise, but the ergonomics on the top handle version is not great. The rear handle models (330, 340) are about as ugly as a chainsaw every could be, but they are quite comfortable to operate. Best wishes to you if you have to work on the carburetor side, there is quite a lot going on there with the carburetor & boot, impulse line, fuel line, and throttle cable all arriving in the compact little air box.

Mark
 
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