The Great 2020/2021 Poulan Wild Thing Build Off

[Lightning Performance]

Better get on it Kenny....

Wild thing... you move me

 

[Lightning Performance]

More betterer

Lol

 

[P.M.P.]

More betterer

Lol

Rap is CRAP

 

[Lightning Performance]

Rap is CRAP

View attachment 282801

You are making friends

 

[PA Dan]

You tell him Gunner!

 

[Billy Currie]

Your making friends

"You're"

 

[Lightning Performance]

"You're"

Edited I did

 

[Egg Shooter]

Edited I did

Your a good dood.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Your a good dood.

Use two

 

[Egg Shooter]

Use two

Thanc yuu

 

[Billy Currie]

 

[Nutball]

Ok, here is what happened to mine. I have a head added to mine with 1/4" studs. I used a torque wrench each time I assembled it to 100 inch pounds. It was enough for the hardware, but too much for the cylinder. The flange at the bottom of the cylinder was bending with the clamping force. At this time I think I am done. I have the parts to make it stock and I think I will go that route. I'm sharing more so to warn others that are making a head that the parts may not hold up to the modification.
View attachment 282770

I've often wondered about threading holes in the cylinder fins to use several short small bolts to hold a head on kind of like on model airplane engines. The holes should be as close to the cylinder as is safe, which may make the screws half in the cylinder wall. You might even fill the fin gaps with epoxy for more meat. You could still use the 4 big bolts, but just hand tighten the usual amount.

 

[Billy Currie]

That may work, but I can tell you the cylinder is not meant to be clamped between a head and the base. It will eventually bend (open) around the crankshaft bearing. I think threading the cylinder base for the 1/4" rod would pull the cylinder back down to the case. The cylinder head at that point would need to be pulled down with nuts. This would be an adequate fix as well......I may work on this and get back in the game.


The guys that are relocating the bearing pockets higher will most likely be fine. I lack the tooling to do that type of machine work. I think head bolts gripping the top of the cylinder would work, but may be risky.

 

[Nutball]

What about not threading the the base and just use nuts in the right spots to apply pressure where needed? What about threading the head itself into the top of the cylinder? Probably too late for that without making a new head with extra meat to cut threads into.

 

[Billy Currie]

My head is threaded, but you will need a way to grab the cylinder base and pull it in the direction of the case (down) the cylinder base cannot be allowed to have any vertical movement. Nuts would work fine if there is room for them.

 

[Agent Smith]

My head is threaded, but you will need a way to grab the cylinder base and pull it in the direction of the case (down) the cylinder base cannot be allowed to have any vertical movement. Nuts would work fine if there is room for them.

What about pinning (dowels) the crank pan and cylinder base together? Kinda like case halves on saws usually do. Probably need pins on each corner or close to it

 

[Billy Currie]

What about pinning (dowels) the crank pan and cylinder base together? Kinda like case halves on saws usually do. Probably need pins on each corner or close to it

That will not work, it will still allow vertical movement of the cylinder from the case.

 

[Rotty781]

Here’s my pro entry first cuts hope you fellers like!

Here’s a little methanol in the mix 50/50

 

[Stump Shot]

Less than a month to go boys and girls...

 

[Ketchup]

Figures.



Took a month to switch over to 3 phase. I took off 0.060.



I made a sanding arbor for the bearing pockets. Needs some tweaking, but did the job.



Ex 116, Trans 132, Int 67/69CA before grinding.



Break time.