The All Aussie Hort Wanker Thread

[weedkilla]

My thinking was much simpler. I don't see any point in wasting raw fuel out the exhaust, I want all the fuel to go into cutting wood. If you can purge the exhaust gas with fresh air, why would I want to do it with air and fuel?
I'm too far from fuel far too often, but I know that actually earning money with saws isn't the only way people use saws.

 

[Terry Syd]

Terry and Rich need to do a thread here.........it would be well received.

It appears that Rich has worked out the jetting for a number of applications using the Zama. What we need is some enthusiastic individual that will take a bucket of Walbros and start recording the variations in air bleed/transition holes, metering springs, throttle valves and metering orifices for the various carbs.

Once we find what combinations work best for a given displacement, it would be easy to mod a carb to those specs. For example, the HD12 is a popular carb in some applications. If we knew the specs, then it would be easy to duplicate using another HD carb. I only have a few saws for cutting firewood, but some of the guys here should have access to heaps of carbs.

Getting a database of existing specifications would be a start. Then guys could work on modding using those specs as a baseline for their mods. I'd be willing to bet that Walbro has such a database that they work from, they probably look at the database and then do a few tweaks with metering springs to get the final result.

Hmm, anybody into industrial espionage?

 

[Windthrown]

Where is the Wanking Canuck forum?

 

[Brewz]

Well what a joy it is to cut 3 to 4' timber with a bar that does it in one cut.

I love that 42" bar but ask me again after I sharpen the 135 link chain.

Bolted on my 25" 404 bar and noodles the ginormous cookies into quarters.

Loaded the trailer till it was full and headed for home.

10 minutes out and one of trailer tyres delamineted and decintegrated.
I pulled up, set up my jack and went to take the wheel nuts off and they are a different size to my vehicle, so I couldn't undo them.

I let fly with the usual language because there was a massive thunder storm on its way as well.

5 minutes later it was thunder, lightening and torrential rain.

I had to ring my old man and get him to bring out his multi size tyre iron.

What a PITA

 

[Brewz]

Best bit is that is now stacked, I've had a shower and am kicking back on the balcony with cold beer and a cool breeze!

I love this country.

 

[Brewz]

foot thick giant cookies.
The 42" bar made light work of it.

I bought Stihl chain for it and after cutting all this, Still didn't need to tension the chain. Very impressed with it.



Then quartered up.
2 down, one to go!


This tyre will self destruct in 5 seconds





And stacked out the back, waiting for a cool day to split it up

 

[Terry Syd]

A foot thick? Crikey, my age is showing, the 40" log I'm cutting has me down to about 5" for a round and I'm still wrestling with the rounds to cut them (imagine a 40" round of CONCRETE that is 5" thick). I need some young punk to help me that thinks he is invincible and wants to show off how freaking strong he is. My ego can take it, show off as much as you want to, I'm here to cut wood.

I swore the last time I cut a dense log this size would be the last time. I must be getting senile, I forgot...

 

[Brewz]

YEah the easy bit is cutting it.
The hard bit that busts you is wrestling with something as heavy as you to stand it up and get it in a position where you can cut it up smaller.

Thats what wore me out today.

 

[Terry Syd]

After writing that post, I had a think about what I was doing and maybe could do it a bit smarter. I think on the next bout with that log I'm going to quarter it before I do the vertical cut. If I came in on the horizontal with the BACK of the bar, I could use the front part of the nose (kick back region) to 'pull' the bar into the wood. I used that method once when I was slabbing a log and it worked well, you just had to keep the saw buried in your guts to keep it from kicking out of the log.

Then I could do a vertical cut along the length of the log (noodle it) and finally cut the end of the log off. - Gawd, I hope it works.

 

[Brewz]

What saw and size bar are you using mate?

 

[weedkilla]

After writing that post, I had a think about what I was doing and maybe could do it a bit smarter. I think on the next bout with that log I'm going to quarter it before I do the vertical cut. If I came in on the horizontal with the BACK of the bar, I could use the front part of the nose (kick back region) to 'pull' the bar into the wood. I used that method once when I was slabbing a log and it worked well, you just had to keep the saw buried in your guts to keep it from kicking out of the log.

Then I could do a vertical cut along the length of the log (noodle it) and finally cut the end of the log off. - Gawd, I hope it works.

It works.
It's as hard as f on everything with the nose buried noodling, but when you cross cut you have four quarters.

 

[Terry Syd]

Great news, yeah I expect it would work the saw and chain a fair bit. Heck, the reason the log is still there after 80 odd years is it is just a tough SOB that nobody wanted to cut and the bush fires couldn't burn. I bought a chain grinder because of that thing. It wasn't to bad when I started as the trunk was bifurcated, but now I'm into the main trunk.

The saw is a Chinese copy of a Husky 365. I've got a ported 77cc big bore jug on it, muffler mod and modded Zama. It runs a 24" bar with an 8-pin. The 24" bar is about all I can handle nowadays, let alone the wood a bigger bar could cut.

 

[weedkilla]

Try a 7 pin again. I've convinced myself that the extra chain speed just gets a dull chain faster in *s-worde timber.

 

[CR888]

Try a 7 pin again. I've convinced myself that the extra chain speed just gets a dull chain faster in *s-worde timber.

So true, my 555 running .325 15" with 9pin driver cuts well but the chain cops it, and don't hold an edge that long. Not a production setup thats for sure.

 

[Mastermind]

It appears that Rich has worked out the jetting for a number of applications using the Zama. What we need is some enthusiastic individual that will take a bucket of Walbros and start recording the variations in air bleed/transition holes, metering springs, throttle valves and metering orifices for the various carbs.

Once we find what combinations work best for a given displacement, it would be easy to mod a carb to those specs. For example, the HD12 is a popular carb in some applications. If we knew the specs, then it would be easy to duplicate using another HD carb. I only have a few saws for cutting firewood, but some of the guys here should have access to heaps of carbs.

Getting a database of existing specifications would be a start. Then guys could work on modding using those specs as a baseline for their mods. I'd be willing to bet that Walbro has such a database that they work from, they probably look at the database and then do a few tweaks with metering springs to get the final result.

Hmm, anybody into industrial espionage?

I can supply some carbs Terry, but I have very little free time. Right now all my energy is going into this site, and the saws that I have scheduled.

 

[weedkilla]

So true, my 555 running .325 15" with 9pin driver cuts well but the chain cops it, and don't hold an edge that long. Not a production setup thats for sure.

It'd be gun in pine thinning, or removing ferals I think, but I'm not going to buy a large mount 325 bar for the 562 to find out!

 

[Brewz]

I have found my saws cut better with a 7 pin
Fast chains would be good in poofter wood but in hardwood you just kill the chain faster

I run my 066 with a 7 pin. It pulls an 8 pin on the 30" bar just fine but I don't find it cuts faster.
It does kill the chain faster!

I am actually wondering where I ban get a 6 pin from for when I run the 42" bar.

 

[Terry Syd]

I can supply some carbs Terry, but I have very little free time. Right now all my energy is going into this site, and the saws that I have scheduled.

There has to be someone in the States that would have an interest in saw carbs. Perhaps another Poleman will stick his head above the parapet and do a thread on Walbro tuning. He'd probably end up knee deep in carburettors (which he could then mod and make some money).

 

[Terry Syd]

Try a 7 pin again. I've convinced myself that the extra chain speed just gets a dull chain faster in *s-worde timber.

Yeah, that's an idea. The saw likes to rev and going to a 7-pin would really have it screaming, but if I dropped the rakers I may be able to cut as fast or faster with less chain wear.

 

[weedkilla]

I have found my saws cut better with a 7 pin
Fast chains would be good in poofter wood but in hardwood you just kill the chain faster

I run my 066 with a 7 pin. It pulls an 8 pin on the 30" bar just fine but I don't find it cuts faster.
It does kill the chain faster!

I am actually wondering where I ban get a 6 pin from for when I run the 42" bar.

You can't get a 6 pin sprocket. Not enough room.
6 pin spur drive is common on little stuff- but I can't imagine you'd find a 6 pin spur drum that'll fit a 66.