Stihl 1125 (034/034S/036/360) Cylinder/Saw ID

[Cracker Boy]

Yeah, it won't be anytime soon. Got too many irons in the fire right now. Plus the whole overrated thing...

Hows your hybrid project goin buddy

 

[72thing]

Hows your hybrid project goin buddy

Got parts gathered up but be awhile before anything can be done with them.

 

[drf256]

I’ve been quite busy. Right now, there’s 4 saws ahead of @72thing hybrid build, but 3 will be done this weekend.

Not taking any more saw till maybe the summer of ‘18, and even that’s a maybe. Got a few experiments to do and some builds that have been put off for way too long. I’m probably going more towards build a saw, sell a saw. Doing anything but a new saw wears one out. No one realizes the extra work involved in cleaning and doing repairs no one seemed to mention before they sent the saw.

As for this thread, and the covers...

The 034 Cover has a deeper front air dam than the 036 cover. So the 034 cover will fit over the 034 AND 034S jugs. The 036 jug has an extended 2nd fin with will interfere with assembly. The 034 air dam can be relieved to fit an 036 Jug. The 036/360 cover will fit right over an 034/S Jug, but the air dam will be small and cooling could be affected.

The newer style 036 cover (just like MS260/new 026) has a lever and not a knob on the rear cover. The older style locks a nylon tab between the 2 extended AF screws. The newer style slides over a “tit” that protrudes from the back of the AF and locks around it.

So you can just push it on the 034 and it won’t lock. It’s will stay just fine though. To make it lock, you’ll have to run the newer style MS360 air filter and just block the compensator hole with a foam ear plug. Easy Peasy.

Stihl makes a plug for the decomp hole when one doesn’t exist. @Definitive Dave has them.

 

[J_M____]

I would like to know the part # for the plug to fill the hole in the top cover/shroud

 

[RI Chevy]

For 034 cover or 036 cover?

 

[Canadian farm boy]

I would like to know the part # for the plug to fill the hole in the top cover/shroud

Heres the part number for that plug
1122 084 7100
I believe the same plug fits most of the top covers with the center decomp hole

 

[Mkinslow]

I’ve been quite busy. Right now, there’s 4 saws ahead of @72thing hybrid build, but 3 will be done this weekend.

Not taking any more saw till maybe the summer of ‘18, and even that’s a maybe. Got a few experiments to do and some builds that have been put off for way too long. I’m probably going more towards build a saw, sell a saw. Doing anything but a new saw wears one out. No one realizes the extra work involved in cleaning and doing repairs no one seemed to mention before they sent the saw.

As for this thread, and the covers...

The 034 Cover has a deeper front air dam than the 036 cover. So the 034 cover will fit over the 034 AND 034S jugs. The 036 jug has an extended 2nd fin with will interfere with assembly. The 034 air dam can be relieved to fit an 036 Jug. The 036/360 cover will fit right over an 034/S Jug, but the air dam will be small and cooling could be affected.

The newer style 036 cover (just like MS260/new 026) has a lever and not a knob on the rear cover. The older style locks a nylon tab between the 2 extended AF screws. The newer style slides over a “tit” that protrudes from the back of the AF and locks around it.

So you can just push it on the 034 and it won’t lock. It’s will stay just fine though. To make it lock, you’ll have to run the newer style MS360 air filter and just block the compensator hole with a foam ear plug. Easy Peasy.

Stihl makes a plug for the decomp hole when one doesn’t exist. @Definitive Dave has them.

Thanks for the info guys. The covers came today. Fit and look great. But I was wondering how to choke the saw with the 360 style filter and cover. From what I see it should be a choke setup in the filter like an 026 right Here’s some pics. Sorry about the messy work bench lol

 

[RI Chevy]

They look nice.
I don't think the 036 works like the 026 with the choke built into the filter. I think the choke may be in the Zama carb.
Does the saw start and run ok?

 

[Mkinslow]

Yeah I just saw the choke built into the carb. Wasn’t thinking right at the moment lol. I started it when I got it about a year ago but didn’t do much with it as I needed a muffler and still have to order one. It was all torn down and cleaned then put away till I had time to mess with it

 

[Canadian farm boy]

The choke should be in the carb. This is a zama c3a but the tillotson carb is the same

 

[RI Chevy]

Thanks Mike! That's what I thought. [emoji106]

 

[Mkinslow]

The choke should be in the carb. This is a zama c3a but the tillotson carb is the sameView attachment 97374View attachment 97375

Yes sir it is. My mind went way to fast over thinking that one lol. It use a separate rod right?? If so mine is missing. Anyone have a part number

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Yes sir it is. My mind went way to fast over thinking that one lol. It use a separate rod right?? If so mine is missing. Anyone have a part number

Choke rod PN is 1125 185 2002

 

[Mkinslow]

Choke rod PN is 1125 185 2002

Thank you sir. This is why this forum is my go too. People that like to help

 

[Cracker Boy]

I’ve been quite busy. Right now, there’s 4 saws ahead of @72thing hybrid build, but 3 will be done this weekend.

Not taking any more saw till maybe the summer of ‘18, and even that’s a maybe. Got a few experiments to do and some builds that have been put off for way too long. I’m probably going more towards build a saw, sell a saw. Doing anything but a new saw wears one out. No one realizes the extra work involved in cleaning and doing repairs no one seemed to mention before they sent the saw.

As for this thread, and the covers...

The 034 Cover has a deeper front air dam than the 036 cover. So the 034 cover will fit over the 034 AND 034S jugs. The 036 jug has an extended 2nd fin with will interfere with assembly. The 034 air dam can be relieved to fit an 036 Jug. The 036/360 cover will fit right over an 034/S Jug, but the air dam will be small and cooling could be affected.

The newer style 036 cover (just like MS260/new 026) has a lever and not a knob on the rear cover. The older style locks a nylon tab between the 2 extended AF screws. The newer style slides over a “tit” that protrudes from the back of the AF and locks around it.

So you can just push it on the 034 and it won’t lock. It’s will stay just fine though. To make it lock, you’ll have to run the newer style MS360 air filter and just block the compensator hole with a foam ear plug. Easy Peasy.

Stihl makes a plug for the decomp hole when one doesn’t exist. @Definitive Dave has them.

That kinda seems way most porters are wanting to go.that kinda sux for us guys that saws are clean and arnt haywired together.that want a saw ported.i honestly cant aford to buy a built ported saw when i have one that i want ported has no issues sitting in my shop .im sad to here this. I was asking 72 thing becuse i helped him round his stuff up for his build.i was corious is all.

 

[72thing]

I understand the part about only wanting to work on new saws...it sucks working on stuff thats all nasty. And I'd be willing to bet that that's how a lot of saws arrive to builders like Al, Randy, etc. Run the saw, dump the gas/oil, and stick it in a box. Then the builder gets to spend an hour cleaning, scraping, washing to even get it to the point of starting the intended work.
I know from past work on mowers, ATVs how much the cleaning sucks when all it would take is $2 at the carwash or some purple power, etc and elbow grease. Or even an air nozzle. On hourly stuff I'm charging the same rate whether I'm scraping off goop or replacing a part. Why not save money?

That being said, there are people out there who know what this is like and try to go out of their way to make sure their crap is clean before someone else has to wrench on it. I'm not saying that I'm the only one conscious of this; I'm saying most people probably just don't think about it. The same applies to being forthright about any other problems/repairs that would affect the original work being done. Of course, this is barring unforseen/unknown problems.
I think most folks would agree on this and it definitely makes a difference for the dude doing the work.

And Brian, I understand exactly what you're saying, brother. I agree 100%. The nasty, broken up saws probably make the builders frustrated. Then we are frustrated because we have clean functional saws. I know what it's like from both the customer's and the mechanic's sides. I'm not saying this is the sole reason why builders are backing off of used saws, but I guarantee it's part of it.

Rant off.
Sorry for derailment...not sorry for content of this message!

 

[Cracker Boy]

I understand the part about only wanting to work on new saws...it sucks working on stuff thats all nasty. And I'd be willing to bet that that's how a lot of saws arrive to builders like Al, Randy, etc. Run the saw, dump the gas/oil, and stick it in a box. Then the builder gets to spend an hour cleaning, scraping, washing to even get it to the point of starting the intended work.
I know from past work on mowers, ATVs how much the cleaning sucks when all it would take is $2 at the carwash or some purple power, etc and elbow grease. Or even an air nozzle. On hourly stuff I'm charging the same rate whether I'm scraping off goop or replacing a part. Why not save money?

That being said, there are people out there who know what this is like and try to go out of their way to make sure their crap is clean before someone else has to wrench on it. I'm not saying that I'm the only one conscious of this; I'm saying most people probably just don't think about it. The same applies to being forthright about any other problems/repairs that would affect the original work being done. Of course, this is barring unforseen/unknown problems.
I think most folks would agree on this and it definitely makes a difference for the dude doing the work.

And Brian, I understand exactly what you're saying, brother. I agree 100%. The nasty, broken up saws probably make the builders frustrated. Then we are frustrated because we have clean functional saws. I know what it's like from both the customer's and the mechanic's sides. I'm not saying this is the sole reason why builders are backing off of used saws, but I guarantee it's part of it.

Rant off.
Sorry for derailment...not sorry for content of this message!

No not at all brotha.theres allways a bad apple in the mix.it just sux for us honest guys.trust me i did 5 years fleet mechanics for a city.we worked on everthing from chainsaws to a police car to a garbage truck.id make guys go wash the truck or saw or mower and get all the grass dirt etc.ive seen it all from chicken bones on the floor to so much crap under belt guards it threw belts and burnt bearings.i clean my saws after every use rinse filters in dawn and air dry etc.for example @Canadian farm boy. Carm boy has one of my saws now @Poleman and Just sent one back home and @laslabjohn. Did one last year and all liked how clean my stuff is and said they found nothing wrong.it just bums me out.



As well sorry to derail thread

 

[Lightning Performance]

Hey Doc.
Stealthy 036-360 runners you built that attended the TN GTG. I appreciate the fact that you went and found me another of your saw to run that was on the property that day. I got to give it up. They were the strongest 3 series "0" Stihls I have run to date. Nice work.

To those who want to know, one saw is a screaming machine. It was no doubt re-tuned to 15K to run up there. It went like stink. The other one was much slower to spool but it had ass down low and still went like stink in the cut. This just goes to show how different parts and a build by the same builder can be that much different. Take into account I run saws mostly below 200ft. The TN GTG is @ a loss for max power based on the elevation.

I did forget to run the TM 361 that attended. Next time. Next GTG I'll bring some of my ported saws to play with. Good time. Good people. Great Days folks.

I have a minty original 036 if you guys need pics info or part numbers. I'll post the serial # with a pic here.
Also have a 360 Pro under the bench.

 

[10/80]

Iirc the first number in the SN will be a 1,2 or 3
1=Germany
2=US
3=Brazil

I copied this from someone here.
View attachment 85650

I have four 034 saws purchased from various sellers over the years, all of which have serial numbers beginning with the number 4.....Three of these saws have a + or x symbol at the beginning of the serial number, the other saw (oldest) has the symbol at the end of the serial number........Anyone know the country of origin ?

 

[RI Chevy]

You could try and send an email to Stihl and they can run it in their computer and tell you the origin. If you are the original owner, they will tell you your own information. Lol