Spacer on Jonsered 2095 Jug

[redline4]

What about copper?
Can be had in many thicknesses, can be cut with snips. Can be re-used provided it is annealed.
I know of many Briggs engines that were used for racing that had copper head gaskets.

 

[Mattyo]

That might be worse... even better thermal conductivity than aluminum. Plus more expensive

 

[jacob j.]

See now this is exactly what i was thinking but with a rubber plug drill a hole and put a tank vent or even just run the line threw the plug and use the original vent end. Only thing is i was worried about rubber being broken down by the fuel. Bolt might be a better solution. Did you use orings in between it?

I wouldn't use a rubber plug. I used an O-ring under the head of the bolt. I had to grind the head down because it wouldn't fit in the area between where the expansion plug hole is at the side of the upper edge of
the crankcase. I had to tighten it with narrow-nose vise grips. I can't remember the thread pitch but I'll see if I can find the mate to that bolt and measure it.

 

[Filthyphil]

I wouldn't use a rubber plug. I used an O-ring under the head of the bolt. I had to grind the head down because it wouldn't fit in the area between where the expansion plug hole is at the side of the upper edge of
the crankcase. I had to tighten it with narrow-nose vise grips. I can't remember the thread pitch but I'll see if I can find the mate to that bolt and measure it.

Yeah im just realizing now that the top is beveled and its threaded underneath that. That thread pitch would help alot.

 

[Fabien]

Hi everyone,
First thing first, I apologize for my spelling and grammar - I'm French (I know there are surely no better reasons )
Right now, I'm in the middle of the disassembly of my 2094, in order to change the cranckshaft and cylinder/piston/ring (among other things).
I am able to answer/confirm some of the previous questions/answers, and do other measurement if you need (as long as the beast is open).

On the 2094, the hard plastic spacer (506133301) is 2mm thick.
the cylinder gasket (506158201) is 0.5mm thick
the 4 bolts (503216525) that secure the cylinder on the case are CHC 1/4"x UNC 20 (pitch 1.27mm and 24mm long).

Regarding the aluminum as substitute to the plastic spacer, well, even it is better than nothing and better than copper, it is still one of the best metal thermal conductor.
Cupronickel or steel would have been better on this point (x6 times), but we are still at least a hundred of time more conductive than plastic.
So be carefull with long use as it will overheat the case.
PEEK would be my choice (high temp, chemically resitant to oil and fuel) .

On the other hand, have any of you the service manual for those chainsaw 2094/2095 ?
I am looking for the torque strength to retighten the cylinder.

bye

 

[Lnk]

PM sent

 

[huskihl]

Hi everyone,
First thing first, I apologize for my spelling and grammar - I'm French (I know there are surely no better reasons )
Right now, I'm in the middle of the disassembly of my 2094, in order to change the cranckshaft and cylinder/piston/ring (among other things).
I am able to answer/confirm some of the previous questions/answers, and do other measurement if you need (as long as the beast is open).

On the 2094, the hard plastic spacer (506133301) is 2mm thick.
the cylinder gasket (506158201) is 0.5mm thick
the 4 bolts (503216525) that secure the cylinder on the case are CHC 1/4"x UNC 20 (pitch 1.27mm and 24mm long).

Regarding the aluminum as substitute to the plastic spacer, well, even it is better than nothing and better than copper, it is still one of the best metal thermal conductor.
Cupronickel or steel would have been better on this point (x6 times), but we are still at least a hundred of time more conductive than plastic.
So be carefull with long use as it will overheat the case.
PEEK would be my choice (high temp, chemically resitant to oil and fuel) .

On the other hand, have any of you the service manual for those chainsaw 2094/2095 ?
I am looking for the torque strength to retighten the cylinder.

bye

Welcome to the forum.
@ray benson is our resident ipl and sm librarian and usually can help

 

[ray benson]

Hi everyone,
First thing first, I apologize for my spelling and grammar - I'm French (I know there are surely no better reasons )
Right now, I'm in the middle of the disassembly of my 2094, in order to change the cranckshaft and cylinder/piston/ring (among other things).
I am able to answer/confirm some of the previous questions/answers, and do other measurement if you need (as long as the beast is open).

On the 2094, the hard plastic spacer (506133301) is 2mm thick.
the cylinder gasket (506158201) is 0.5mm thick
the 4 bolts (503216525) that secure the cylinder on the case are CHC 1/4"x UNC 20 (pitch 1.27mm and 24mm long).

Regarding the aluminum as substitute to the plastic spacer, well, even it is better than nothing and better than copper, it is still one of the best metal thermal conductor.
Cupronickel or steel would have been better on this point (x6 times), but we are still at least a hundred of time more conductive than plastic.
So be carefull with long use as it will overheat the case.
PEEK would be my choice (high temp, chemically resitant to oil and fuel) .

On the other hand, have any of you the service manual for those chainsaw 2094/2095 ?
I am looking for the torque strength to retighten the cylinder.

bye

Check your inbox for a small Clymer service manual that has torque specs in it . And a Jonsered multi saw service manual that includes the 2095.

 

[Mattyo]

I still have more spacers if anyone needs

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

I just got one of Matt's aluminum spacers. Very nicely done. I didn't need it at this moment but now I have it when I do. I do appreciate Matt having them made.

 

[Mattyo]

Enjoy!

 

[Lnk]

I just got one of Matt's aluminum spacers. Very nicely done. I didn't need it at this moment but now I have it when I do. I do appreciate Matt having them made.
View attachment 333163

I finally got around to putting that piston and jug back on the other 2094, I used dirko between jug and aluminum spacer and a double gasket under it. Passes P/V and will check squish tomorrow, or the next day. Nice job Matt!

 

[Junk Meister]

PM sent

Is it possible to PM me one as well.. I do need to read more of this thread.. I have a 2095 that is very clean and a new P/C that I believe to be OEM. no casting marking . The piston is touching the cyl and it only has a Base Casket. Now to catch up on the reading and Thanks

 

[Junk Meister]

I still have more spacers if anyone needs

I need to read more here but... I think I need 1 if not 2 of these.
I have a friend (81 YRS) that sold Jonsereds for years (50 plus I think) He has a brand new Long block and a bunch of new other stuff (missing decals) as he tells me the 2094 came out without a decompression port so Jonsered offered an update with it. I have these all in a tote on the porch. Fast forward to today. I got one in the mail off the Bay... It won't roll on over as the piston ?TOPS? out on the cylinder but with the bolts out it bumps and raises the cylinder and the goes on over. It is the same unmarked cylinder casting as the one in the tote.. that I know is from the ?80s? or 90s'. The one I have from the bay has never been run and the rest of the saw is very clean.. I have a lot of reading to do but thought I would try to get ahead of things.

 

[Lnk]

I need to read more here but... I think I need 1 if not 2 of these.
I have a friend (81 YRS) that sold Jonsereds for years (50 plus I think) He has a brand new Long block and a bunch of new other stuff (missing decals) as he tells me the 2094 came out without a decompression port so Jonsered offered an update with it. I have these all in a tote on the porch. Fast forward to today. I got one in the mail off the Bay... It won't roll on over as the piston ?TOPS? out on the cylinder but with the bolts out it bumps and raises the cylinder and the goes on over. It is the same unmarked cylinder casting as the one in the tote.. that I know is from the ?80s? or 90s'. The one I have from the bay has never been run and the rest of the saw is very clean.. I have a lot of reading to do but thought I would try to get ahead of things.

There is supposed to be a phenolic spacer under the jug that acts a both a spacer and an insulator. These are very fragile and break easily. They are also made out of unobtanium. So if you have one, don't break it. The ones Matt makes are great, just use a jug gasket above and below it and it will work fine. If you don't mill with it continuously on the hottest days of the year.

Good luck

 

[Mattyo]

Pm replied yes I still have stock.

 

[Junk Meister]

What IF one pushed the parameters on a hot day?

put the saw on the shelf, or use my aluminum gasket and don't run the saw for extended periods on a hot day.

What consequences could be EXPECTED? I have no intentions of having a Heat Stroke or even sweating profusely, But am wondering how vapor locking or fuel and heat affect the P/C..

 

[davidwyby]

Skimmed the thread…I agree alum should be ok sandwiched for insulation. @Mattyo, have them Waterjet cut, not machined.

 

[Mattyo]

they have already been machined, and the demand is near on nil, so ... not much point in researching further.

 

[Junk Meister]

they have already been machined, and the demand is near on nil, so ... not much point in researching further.

For the record I am glad you took the initiative to make these for some of us that do need them. Missing spacer is likely the reason I ended up with my J 2095 with a new OEM P/C. so there may be an issue of unaware saw "Mekinicks"