Spacer on Jonsered 2095 Jug

[Ketchup]

What IF one pushed the parameters on a hot day?

What consequences could be EXPECTED? I have no intentions of having a Heat Stroke or even sweating profusely, But am wondering how vapor locking or fuel and heat affect the P/C..

Heat that penetrates deeply can kill bearings, which leads to relatively catastrophic failure. An almost vapor locked saw will run lean and could result in piston transfer. Full vapor lock results in damage in the shoulder joint, broken pull cords, parts lost in gravel and sawdust and general hatred of your chainsaw.

 

[Ketchup]

Maybe cutting a gasket out of something like this would solve the heat transfer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2938551881...ar=592600799623&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[davidwyby]

...or find some of the appropriate thickness and waterjet cut it. ;-)

 

[Junk Meister]

Heat that penetrates deeply can kill bearings, which leads to relatively catastrophic failure. An almost vapor locked saw will run lean and could result in piston transfer. Full vapor lock results in damage in the shoulder joint, broken pull cords, parts lost in gravel and sawdust and general hatred of your chainsaw.

YUPP kinda what I thought, Never thought about the lost parts bit and I would have to work up a real sweat if I were to create enough pieces to get lost so hopefully all of these scenarios never transpire Thanks for the detailed explanation.

 

[Junk Meister]

I have one of Mattyos spacers now and have MORE questions. Using 1/32"/.0313" gasket paper .. How much will it compress down to? OR Should I use 1/64"/.0156" ?? Should I use Dirko? If so which side of Matts spacer to put single gasket and Dirko. I assume Crank Case-spacer-gasket-cylinder. ?? Dirko ALL surfaces. or just the spacer side/surface that doesn't contact the gasket.
So Many questions It is difficult to count them.
THANKS for any guidance

 

[davidwyby]

I’d sandwich the spacer with gaskets without Dirko. But it all depends on how thick the original spacer was and how thick the new one is. Bolt it together dry and check squish.

 

[Junk Meister]

I’d sandwich the spacer with gaskets without Dirko. But it all depends on how thick the original spacer was and how thick the new one is. Bolt it together dry and check squish.

Thanks for your input
I may make (I HOPE) 2 gaskets with 1/64" material doing it your suggested way "BUT" Mattyo post #28 was single gasket and .080" spacer. I was/am correlating Jonsereds Cylinder-Aluminum-Gasket-Muffler sequence Thinking Jonsered is wanting to isolate the heat from getting back into the cylinder and the aluminum heat diffuser being in direct contact with cylinder exhaust port should conduct heat from cylinder more than the muffler, and the larger surface area of the muffler will Dissipate most of the heat outward.
Not trying to argue but you can see where the imaginating mind of Me can and probably is going into overload.
I don't think the aluminum spacer will seal to the crank case without a Gasket or sealant and wonder if that is the reason Jonsered Opted to use a High temperature. ?Plastic? for a gasket so it would seal yet conduct the heat from the crank case. Where a second gasket (And dirko as well) would insulate rather than conduct and dissipate the heat..
I just went back to read that post (#29) and then read Jacobs post #28 and it concurs with your post #66 SO Unless someone has a better BEST IDEAR That is what I will try, (Without sealant anywhere). Won' be for a while 'cuz I have to many irons in the forge and not enough motivation in the saddle.

 

[davidwyby]

I think the goal was to keep heat from the cylinder from getting to the crankcase.

 

[Ketchup]

Thanks for your input
I may make (I HOPE) 2 gaskets with 1/64" material doing it your suggested way "BUT" Mattyo post #28 was single gasket and .080" spacer. I was/am correlating Jonsereds Cylinder-Aluminum-Gasket-Muffler sequence Thinking Jonsered is wanting to isolate the heat from getting back into the cylinder and the aluminum heat diffuser being in direct contact with cylinder exhaust port should conduct heat from cylinder more than the muffler, and the larger surface area of the muffler will Dissipate most of the heat outward.
Not trying to argue but you can see where the imaginating mind of Me can and probably is going into overload.
I don't think the aluminum spacer will seal to the crank case without a Gasket or sealant and wonder if that is the reason Jonsered Opted to use a High temperature. ?Plastic? for a gasket so it would seal yet conduct the heat from the crank case. Where a second gasket (And dirko as well) would insulate rather than conduct and dissipate the heat..
I just went back to read that post (#29) and then read Jacobs post #28 and it concurs with your post #66 SO Unless someone has a better BEST IDEAR That is what I will try, (Without sealant anywhere). Won' be for a while 'cuz I have to many irons in the forge and not enough motivation in the saddle.

The factory setup is case, spacer, gasket, jug. @davidwyby has it right that squish will determine if you use thicker or thinner gasket(s).

My guess would be case, sealant, Mattyo spacer, sealant (optional), 1/64 gasket, sealant (optional), jug.

 

[Junk Meister]

Ray sent me a IPL last night so I have some pictures to look at. (Thanks Ray). I still have plenty of squish (To much) but the battery in my caliper was dead and a cheap one reads .048". Bummer. Tempted to use Mattyos as a template and look for a piece of scrap aluminum a bit thinner and experiment.. even eliminating both 1/64" gaskets and Dirko on both sides of the .080" will be plenty.

 

[Mattyo]

yeah, i think i'd use sealer between the case and the spacer, then just a gasket between the spacer and the jug. i really doubt most folks running the 2095 are going to run it extensively enough to build up enough heat to boil the gas in the gas tank.... and if ya'll are running these things all day long, its time for a different saw anyway lol. why run a 2095 which is difficult to find parts for when you can run a 395 and have near unlimited parts availability and same if not better performance? but thats just me

 

[Junk Meister]

yeah, i think i'd use sealer between the case and the spacer, then just a gasket between the spacer and the jug. i really doubt most folks running the 2095 are going to run it extensively enough to build up enough heat to boil the gas in the gas tank.... and if ya'll are running these things all day long, its time for a different saw anyway lol. why run a 2095 which is difficult to find parts for when you can run a 395 and have near unlimited parts availability and same if not better performance? but thats just me

Analytically LOGICAL.. THANKS

 

[blackbruin]

2095 has more grunt with 42" and up bars over a 395 any day of the week.
Especially milling.
Your right the parts for most people are easier to find in the 395. But it's way cooler to mill or run a 2095 any day of the week!
Plus finding parts is alot of the fun too!

 

[Junk Meister]

2095 has more grunt with 42" and up bars over a 395 any day of the week.
Especially milling.
Your right the parts for most people are easier to find in the 395. But it's way cooler to mill or run a 2095 any day of the week!
Plus finding parts is alot of the fun too!

I am curious If - the comparison of 2095 to the 395 would be similar to - Stihl 056 Magnum to the 660 I don't have a 660 or 395 but I will get along with what I have if I have to I Guess kinda sort of 'til the 660 and 395 find me

 

[Woodslasher]

I am curious If - the comparison of 2095 to the 395 would be similar to - Stihl 056 Magnum to the 660 I don't have a 660 or 395 but I will get along with what I have if I have to I Guess kinda sort of 'til the 660 and 395 find me

395 and 2094’s are fairly similar in terms of weight/handling as I recall, but the 2094 I built seemed faster and mo’ powaful than a 395. The 056 is a torque machine designed to pull long bars while the 066 flat top I ran seemed faster and more geared towards a 36-42” bar range. The 66 could probably pull longer bars, but for anything over a 42” I’d pick a 56 over a 66.

 

[Junk Meister]

395 and 2094’s are fairly similar in terms of weight/handling as I recall, but the 2094 I built seemed faster and mo’ powaful than a 395. The 056 is a torque machine designed to pull long bars while the 066 flat top I ran seemed faster and more geared towards a 36-42” bar range. The 66 could probably pull longer bars, but for anything over a 42” I’d pick a 56 over a 66.

I am going to take a picture of my comment and your Reply then show them to a friend next time I see him.. I will enjoy myself. Thanks for the reply it Settles the Mind of Me a bit.