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RI Chevy

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I thank everyone for helping me understand. [emoji106]
Doc is right, I did 2 videos about a month back. Same MOFO 026, Same wood. I used the 7 pin .325 18" combo, and a 7 pin 3/8 18" combo. .325 held higher RPMs in cut, but was just a little slower. 3/8 sounded slower, but was in fact faster in the cut with lower RPMs. [emoji106]

I will experiment some more tomorrow. Thanks guys. [emoji481]

Eric, I will bring all my sh't to the NY gtg. Lol.
 

paragonbuilder

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Actually Jeff, iirc, your saw was faster wif 3/8. Just sounded slower.

Exactly my point! The saw probably was indeed slower... but it cut faster because it was using more of the power produced.
Jeff I know you can tune a saw, so you are listening, listen to the saw as you dog it in, you can hear and feel when the power drops off. If your tach is on there, now you know where it will be fastest, adjust chain and gearing accordingly.
In my opinion, a little aggressive works better because you can back off the dogs if your in bigger wood, it's better than dogging it hard with less aggressive on the smaller stuff, that puts more strain and heat on the bar chain and clutch.
If you are felling, that's different, but you are probably using a bigger saw for that.
But you get the idea.


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RI Chevy

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Thanks Dan. I appreciate the help.
Sometimes it takes someone on the outside looking in to give the best advice.
I learn everyday. [emoji106]

Saw was working great though! Lol
Purred like a kitten.
 

paragonbuilder

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Thanks Dan. I appreciate the help.
Sometimes it takes someone on the outside looking in to give the best advice.
I learn everyday. [emoji106]

Saw was working great though! Lol
Purred like a kitten.

A lot of guys have been saying "in the cut rpm" Jeff.
It's not you I was picking on. You are a good guy.
And that saw runs great! No doubt. And for the average guy it's fine with that chain. But at least for me, I'm trying to suck all I can out of my saws, so now you have my take on it. [emoji41]


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jmssaws

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3/8 sounds like your answer.

In the cut rpm means nothing to me because of the unlimited amount of variables.

I have never tried a off the roll chain that loaded a ported saw enough, I don't like them screaming.
 

RI Chevy

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Post #6184 above has a side by side video of same saw, same wood, same size bar, with both .325 and 3/8 chains.
Both with 7 pin rims.
 

Wolverine

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Jeff the only saw of the ones Al had that we put on the dyno that day that are close to an 026 is his 024/026 combo saw.
Here's the graph -- best power seems to be between 10500 and 9000 RPM with 10000 about the sweet spot.
Best usable torque seems to be right at that 10000 area too. Not much power to be at north of 13000 on this graph -- all below 3HP to run your chain.
Goes right along with Dan's explanation.

Gotta add Dr. Carr's filter algorithm he gave me to my software and get crackin on more electronics to hand out to folks who want to build dynos. I should have more time this spring and summer! During winter work has killed me.

View attachment 61795
Valuable info! I'd like to see more stuff like this. It'd be cool to get my saws plots just for curiosity sake. I feel the sweet spot... but I like to see the data too. Part of bein' a gear head I guess.
 

MustangMike

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Jason, the operator is also part of it. Some (and I am not claiming to be one of them) can just feel where the saws sweet spot is and give just enough pressure accordingly.

A lot of things come into play. I like to file the square so it draws the saw into the wood, so you don't have to press it in. But if your rakers get too low, you have to be careful you don't kill it.

The only time a saw that is slower in the cut is faster is when you are taking out a bigger chip, otherwise, speed wins. I'm talking chain speed, not saw speed.
 

mdavlee

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If a chain won't feed like this I get mad.
c416f030271cec6acd05a43ba60c2c77.jpg
 
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