- Local time
- 10:19 AM
- User ID
- 13535
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2020
- Messages
- 4,310
- Reaction score
- 24,795
- Location
- Neenah Wisconsin
Another Husky 350…this one I left the tune a little fat at 13,8.
Did you run it before you ported it?
Looks pretty smooth.First cuts on the FT 660…tune is pretty fat, but good enough for who it’s for.
It was nice cutting…that is off-the roll C83 chain.Looks pretty smooth.
Yeah I'm pretty impressed with the new C83 and 85 ,been using it on my 394xp and my blue G372xp.It was nice cutting…that is off-the roll C83 chain.
The profile they used is very close to what I have been doing with my round grinder for several years. It’s nice to be able to have it cut decent right off the roll.Yeah I'm pretty impressed with the new C83 and 85 ,been using it on my 394xp and my blue G372xp.
I haven’t tested it yet. Do you find it dulls faster or easier than a blunter grind like EXL?The profile they used is very close to what I have been doing with my round grinder for several years. It’s nice to be able to have it cut decent right off the roll.
I haven’t run any EXL yet, but I would say I like the x-cut. Most of the wood I have cut with it is oak, hickory, or ash…some hard maple. Depending on the saw, it seems like 2 tanks before I notice it starting to slow down.I haven’t tested it yet. Do you find it dulls faster or easier than a blunter grind like EXL?
When I made this video, my tach was acting up, so I just tuned the high jet by ear. Figured I was pretty close to 12.8-13K no-load. I was contemplating going back into the saw to try to pick up some rpm as I wasn't that thrilled with its performance. I put new batteries in my tach yesterday and found the no-load max rpm was only 11.8K and was cutting around 9.4K. After re-tuning to a no-load rpm 0f 12.8, the saw now wants to cut around 10.8, and lugs down to 10 if you lean on it. After getting the tune in a better spot, the saw now acts like a ported 90cc should, and it still has a noticeable 4-stroke when you lift from the cut. My takeaway is that I'm not quite as good at tuning by ear as I thought....I guess I will be grabbing the tach to double check my tune from now on.First cuts on the FT 660…tune is pretty fat, but good enough for who it’s for.
Why not just lean it until stroke goes away and then put it back in? I also tune in wood by adjusting until it wavers in and out of stroke with just the weight of the saw in the log…but the chain grab affects that too…When I made this video, my tach was acting up, so I just tuned the high jet by ear. Figured I was pretty close to 12.8-13K no-load. I was contemplating going back into the saw to try to pick up some rpm as I wasn't that thrilled with its performance. I put new batteries in my tach yesterday and found the no-load max rpm was only 11.8K and was cutting around 9.4K. After re-tuning to a no-load rpm 0f 12.8, the saw now wants to cut around 10.8, and lugs down to 10 if you lean on it. After getting the tune in a better spot, the saw now acts like a ported 90cc should, and it still has a noticeable 4-stroke when you lift from the cut. My takeaway is that I'm not quite as good at tuning by ear as I thought....I guess I will be grabbing the tach to double check my tune from now on.