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paragonbuilder

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These port were already messed with so I’m working with what I have.
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XP_Slinger

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Regular index cards work great for me. They’re long enough that they remain tensioned against the cylinder wall above the port you’re working on.
 

paragonbuilder

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Looking great Dan.

That software is very cool stuff, but it looks like a ton of work vs using a degree wheel, at least to me.

Great job. Beautiful finish.

It’s really not bad once you understand the few details needed to get it right.
Always deduct squish, and the intake also deduct height of piston. Doing it to share on the forum is slightly tedious. But otherwise it’s only a min or 2 to degree a cylinder.
And it tells me exactly how much to cut, or raise/lower a port


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paragonbuilder

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Looking great Dan.

That software is very cool stuff, but it looks like a ton of work vs using a degree wheel, at least to me.

Great job. Beautiful finish.

When you use a degree wheel, how do you know how much to raise a port to get what you want?


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mdavlee

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When you use a degree wheel, how do you know how much to raise a port to get what you want?


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Mark piston skirt through exhaust at opening of exhaust and then where you want it to open. Same with transfers. Pull jug and measure between marks.
 

drf256

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When you use a degree wheel, how do you know how much to raise a port to get what you want?


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For intake skirt, your program is great, especially when you dont have as "builder case" for the model.

I make studs. I put a ring in the bore, push jug over piston and bottom out onto the studs, then turn the flywheel until the degree wheel is at the degree I want.

Then I pull off, draw line with a sharpie, and grind to line. I check at the end using the same method and a sharpened tungsten to feel the ring edge and the port opening.
 
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