Partner Chain Saw Thread

[av8or3]

Are the bearings special bearings?

No, not really. The outer race is grooved for this retainer on the clutch side. But, it would probably be ok to run one that wasn’t grooved there. IDK
The other bearing looks like any other partially sealed ball bearing .?
I guess?
It was a pretty easy saw to disassemble. Except the stuckflywheel / broken crank sat me back. I hadn’t broken one before.
It’s about like any other saw of it’s time. Oh, the corrosion present on the bottom (bad as it looks) is not anywhere near perforating the saw. There was corrosion just beginning to form between the cases, in the areas where it wasn’t sealed completely. The kind that can be polished out at this stage thankfully. It’s going to run again, providing I don’t f*** it up again somehow.

 

[Al Smith]

Are the bearings special bearings?

I wouldn't actually call them hard to find but they are some what oversized and the clutch side has a groove in it that holds a clip that holds it in place .

 

[Al Smith]

I might interject a thought here concerning the discoloration on the connecting rod .People often think this is caused by over heating .It's not what causes that is the use of induction heating of the rod to harden the rod ends .This is typical and FWIW I must have seen this thousands of times in my work in a Ford engine plant where I worked on the machines that did this procedure .I also worked in a Honda engine plant .

 

[av8or3]

Yup, seen it before myself. This rod is colored in the same fashion.

 

[Al Smith]

I come up with crazy ideas but most of the time they work .On that broken off crankshaft it might be possible to bore and tap the crank end and insert a threaded in stud .Run it in deep in the tapered end cutting "class one " threads and using thread locker of some sort .Around M8 should do it or 5/16" if you can't do metric . Use a good grade of cold rolled round stock and a belleville washer .You need to figure a way of tucking the connecting rod to turn it in .a lathe .Might work ,might not .

 

[av8or3]

I come up with crazy ideas but most of the time they work .On that broken off crankshaft it might be possible to bore and tap the crank end and insert a threaded in stud .Run it in deep in the tapered end cutting "class one " threads and using thread locker of some sort .Around M8 should do it or 5/16" if you can't do metric . Use a good grade of cold rolled round stock and a belleville washer .You need to figure a way of tucking the connecting rod to turn it in .a lathe .Might work ,might not .

Al, that would probably work . But it requires skill I don’t possess, at least for now. But, you got me thinking. I have access to a lathe and an end mill.
I’m thinking of slowing down at work. It would be something I will take up when I do. I’m going to ask the boss how he feels about 3 on 4 off. I’ll have some time to tangle with it then.

 

[Al Smith]

You'd have to machine it dead nuts on center .My concern ,now that I've thought about it locking the stud in place .It would not spin off on acceleration but could on deceleration when the inertia of the spinning fly wheel comes into play . Then again it is on a taper so that might be of no concern .

 

[edju1958]

Hi guys,I just bouight what I believe to be a model 5000.It doesn't have a bar or chain on it & since this is my 2nd Partner saw (the other one is a little 330) what bar mount pattern does it use?

 

[Partner]

take a picture of the chainsaw

 

[edju1958]

take a picture of the chainsaw

I will when I get it.I should have it by Fri.or Sat.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Hi guys,I just bouight what I believe to be a model 5000.It doesn't have a bar or chain on it & since this is my 2nd Partner saw (the other one is a little 330) what bar mount pattern does it use?

If it is a 5000 KO95 Bar mount

 

[edju1958]

Is there anyone here who has knowledge about an R16,specifically how to get the throttle linkage hooked back onto the trigger?I pulled the carb for a rebuild & tipped the saw forward & the choke & throttle linkages just fell out.I was able to figure outy the choke linkage,but the throttle linkage is a giant PITA.

 

[Al Smith]

I did break out one of the big Swedes to give it some exercise on a cherry log .It was a walk in the park for that saw .It fired up pretty easy after sitting for a year .Pro Mac 1000 .A Partner P-100 in disguise .

 

[Al Smith]

Just a little blurb about the big Swede .It's of course a high compression saw with a relatively large carb .It takes fuel to make power .Every saw has a secret you just need to find it .This one on a cold start up you choke it until it farts then set the throttle lock and one pull later it fires up .On a warm start one pull does it .I have a tendency to set them up a tad rich and run 32 to 1 fuel ratio .I spend way too much time rebuilding these things and have no intention of burning them up .

 

[av8or3]

I put a wanted ad in the correct place, but I thought I might get a more specialized view in this thread. I’m looking for a clutch cover and guide plates for a P100. I know they’re out there somewhere cause mines missing them. Lol! The nicer the better. But I can paint.

 

[Al Smith]

On the plates ,if you use those for a 2100 Husqvarna you can use Husky mount bars .These usually are much less expensive than those specifically Partner .I have both the Husky plates plus those for Mac 1000 .The later will take Mac 10 series bars .I don't know if those will take Partner bars or not because I don't have one . As it is now both my saws I think have the 2100 plates .One with a 20" and one with a 24".I do however have several 32" bars I could use if necessary .

 

[av8or3]

P100 question

Can anyone tell me what this hole in the clutch side crankshaft?

It appears to bleed air when doing a pressure check.
Thanks.



View attachment 324540

I took a pic of the other end of the hollow crank. You can clearly see a brass “restricted orifice” has been pressed in. It can only be an attempt at an “automatic” lubricating system for the clutch bearing. Seems to work.
I would like to add that I was ignorant of this leak, totally ignored the hole and went on the break the crankshaft trying to get to the seal under the flywheel when the case wouldn’t hold pressure. That’s all fixed now but wow!, would sure have been nice to know.

 

[av8or3]

I have never seen this type of exhaust port. There is a channel cut in the roof of the port, looks factory. It’s on another P100 I’m starting to build. The rings and piston look perfect, and the saw runs but the cylinder is missing a significant number of cooling fins.
Maybe a built in compression release to ease starting?

 

[Al Smith]

It's a compression release of a sorts .It works on the port time area open principle . In my case I still needed a D-handle .The first start up on the first P-100 it tried to pull my arm off so into my junk to find a pair of them .I had an 084 Stihl come back hard on me and I could predict the weather for about two years over that deal .It too now has a D-handle .

 

[Partner]

Port T is professionally called, even a manufacturer's bulletin describing this change was issued