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Partner Chain Saw Thread

trooney

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Hope you guys can help me out. I'm a Stihl/Husky man but my coworker gave me a Partner 400 silver tag to work on. The thing lopes at idle and I cant get the carb adjusted right, it bogs no matter which way I go. Thinking air leak but does anybody have the workshop manual to this saw? It would make life easier. Also, when I put the top cover back on it screams at idle. Any ideas input welcome. Shes got plenty of spark. Thanks.
 

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[CYTAT="trooney, stanowisko: 1365316, członek: 264"]Mam nadzieję, że pozyskano mi pomóc. Jestem człowiekiem Stihl/Husky, ale mój współpracownik dał mi srebrną zawieszkę Partner 400 do pracy. Rzecz kręci si

I had such a case recently, it was a broken thread on the bolt fastening the carburetor to the collector / although there may be several other reasons
 

David Young

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Hope you guys can help me out. I'm a Stihl/Husky man but my coworker gave me a Partner 400 silver tag to work on. The thing lopes at idle and I cant get the carb adjusted right, it bogs no matter which way I go. Thinking air leak but does anybody have the workshop manual to this saw? It would make life easier. Also, when I put the top cover back on it screams at idle. Any ideas input welcome. Shes got plenty of spark. Thanks.
Tom the partner 400 is basically the same as the husky 40,45,49 the Jonsered 2040,2045,2050.

They have a intake similar to the husky 50,51,55 where the impulse is routed through a piece of rubber and is part of the intake partition. I would start with a carb kit and fuel line/filter. when you tighten the carb down be careful as the screws thread into plastic.I will see what I have for ipl and wsm on these saws.

Best
David
 

trooney

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Yeah, thats where I was planning on starting. The whole intake system. You got to take off the handle to get to the last carb screw...ingenious..
 

av8or3

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Thanks for jumping in. The ad had me going. I need a crankshaft for the p100 super. I broke the end of it off trying to remove the flywheel.Do you if any other cranks will work in the saw?
 

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The seller listed a few models so that he would fall into the search engine more often ;-) and it looks like r16
 

Al Smith

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I'd be reluctant to try the spare rotating assembly I have because of the condition within the saw that looks like it spent 6 months on the bottom of Great Salt lake .I do have a possible alternative though which might be used The crankshaft assembly of a K1200 concrete saw lists the same number as the P-100 chainsaw .Partner number 300740 .You would just need to install the worm gear for the oil pump if you could find one . Weather any Husqvarna concrete saws would interchange I honestly do not know .
 

av8or3

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@Ikeholt has provided a crankshaft and I’ve split the case while waiting for it. I have a couple questions and could use some parts too. I’ve searched eBay for the Partner 100 and the K1200 looking for stuff and found some. I found bearings. I found the clutch side crank seal and could probably find the flywheel side if I could decipher this possible size info I found on the inside of the seal I removed. I also need help finding gaskets. Crank case and cylinder base. Here a pic of the seal I need help id ing. 1133B5C7-ABF4-46D4-9714-AECC35B75845.jpegA1515D48-A944-4DCE-B966-92907A32FEE7.jpeg
Thanks in advance for the help. Jim
 

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@Ikeholt has provided a crankshaft and I’ve split the case while waiting for it. I have a couple questions and could use some parts too. I’ve searched eBay for the Partner 100 and the K1200 looking for stuff and found some. I found bearings. I found the clutch side crank seal and could probably find the flywheel side if I could decipher this possible size info I found on the inside of the seal I removed. I also need help finding gaskets. Crank case and cylinder base. Here a pic of the seal I need help id ing. View attachment 339991View attachment 339992
Thanks in advance for the help. Jim

As far as the seals go, you can measure a few things to determine what it is. It's a metric seal so dimensions will be in millimeters.

Measure the OD of the seal with a vernier caliper or a micrometer. The OD will be around 0.1 mm larger than the seal that would be spec'd.

Measure the OD of the crankshaft where the seal rides. That will be the ID of the seal you need. The actual seal will be about 1 mm tighter than the OD of the crankshaft.

Measure the width (depth) of the steel case.

Yours is a bare steel case and it's likely the one you'll get will have a steel case covered in rubber. They work as well or better than a bare steel case.

You dimensions would be be something like,

Shaft dia X OD X width
17 X 35 x 7

That will be the size and usually the part number.

Make sure the seal has a garter spring and the rubber material is BUNA-N (nitrile) single or double lip.
 
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Al Smith

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What I used ----New seals are in route .Just for reference they are cr 5805 fw side and cr 8552 or 8550 clutch side I used the later because the viton used is rated for a higher temperature .
 

av8or3

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I was able to find the case gasket, cylinder base gasket and the fw crank seal at a place called ConstructionParts.com for the Partner K1200. That’s all I bought there but I checked other stuff like bearings and carb gaskets and it was all in stock. But, it’s terrible expensive.
 

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That's why there is a market for used chainsaws and parts ;-)
 

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I was able to find the case gasket, cylinder base gasket and the fw crank seal at a place called ConstructionParts.com for the Partner K1200. That’s all I bought there but I checked other stuff like bearings and carb gaskets and it was all in stock. But, it’s terrible expensive.
Are the bearings special bearings?
 

Al Smith

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I didn't rely on OEM parts when I did the pair of P-100's .The bearings themselves I felt heavy enough you'd never wear them out plus the fact the way the oil pump was made would weep a tiny bit of oil into the crankcase which would help lubricate them but not enough to cause a problem .I made all the gaskets from gasket paper stock which don't leak I might add .As I've said before after working on many brands this model is the most robustly built saw I've ever worked on .With a proper rebuild they should last a good many years .
 
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