Partner Chain Saw Thread

[Bjorn]

Hello, if you have a good hand, you dont need a partner!!!

 

[nbbt]

Cleaned around the kill switch contact as it was heavily crusted.

Added a double layer of elect. tape to all wires, however none appeared to have wear marks, didn't see pin holes with a 10x loupe. Re-gapped the coil to flywheel magnets, was near 0.035" now very close to 0.012".

How about the module in the handle? do these go out as well? Is there a way to test?

 

[nbbt]

There is a possibility the coil for a 272 Husqvarna might work .They are cheap, about $15 .Pic is from a P-100,Mac 1000 I rebuilt

This coil style looks like a possible fit, thanks Al.

 

[av8or3]

Cleaned around the kill switch contact as it was heavily crusted.
View attachment 344004
Added a double layer of elect. tape to all wires, however none appeared to have wear marks, didn't see pin holes with a 10x loupe. Re-gapped the coil to flywheel magnets, was near 0.035" now very close to 0.012".
View attachment 344003
How about the module in the handle? do these go out as well? Is there a way to test?
View attachment 344002

Yes, they do go bad and are cheap to replace. However, the coil that Al recommended does not require it. I think that most folks today just go with a stand alone coil.

 

[Partner]

I got my s50 without the cylinder cover :-(

 

[Al Smith]

It is a stand alone coil not an "ignitron style " If you could even find a complete two piece ignitron unit it would cost more than the saw is worth . BTW if you do change it don't use one from a concrete saw because most if not all of them are limited RPM types .

 

[nbbt]

For this stand alone coil, are any of the ebay ones good, or are there others that are of longer lasting quality

I ended up getting the one that claimed to arrive 2 days earlier. So if I'm lucky will be starting up on the 30th or 31st

 

[nbbt]

I got my s50 without the cylinder cover :-(

The cover on this one is not perfect, it has the familiar corner repair.

 

[Al Smith]

I got my replacement coil from E-Bay and it works fine .Nice hot spark The spark plug lead was a little long and I just rolled it up and used a zip tie to hold it . BTW I looked high and low before I found one that gave the bolt hole spacing specs etc .

 

[nbbt]

Have a replacement Drum, sprocket, with a new bearing on order. Thought the replaceable rim sprocket version should be the better option.

 

[nbbt]

The stand-along coil arrived today.
The version that was purchased required a small clearance modification to the coil mounting bracket.

I soldered the shut off wire to the original shorter wire that goes to the switch.
Popped on first pull, started on second.

 

[nbbt]

It oils very well, however I noticed that before it was worked on today that there was a puddle of bar oil under it. I'll have to look at the oil pump shaft o-ring and likely replace per Al's recommendation.
I haven't performed a oil shaft o-ring repair before. Is there a write-up that would help guide me?

Is there someone that has a service manual for a S-50 or R16 that I could get or be directed to? Thanks in advance...

 

[Al Smith]

That model is not in my collection of IPL's . What would be a similar model ?If the oil pump is the same design as the P-85 and P-100 there really isn't much to wear out but the o-ring . Also if it has the oil hole in the crankshaft to oil the clutch drum bearing wouldn't surprise me if it won't dribble .Give me some time and I'll see what the service manuals might say . Partner as a brand is all new ground for me .

 

[Al Smith]

Kevin ( Cut for fun ) had a pair of some model of Partner with either 50 or 500 in the model number .One won the class in the West Virginia saw thing .I ran the other at Chardon Ohio .Little rascal would really get with it .

 

[Al Smith]

Okay this might be it or it might not .According to the general service manual it says the 85 and 100 cc models use the gear driven piston type rotating shaft type pumps driven by a worm gear . If the s-50 uses the type in the picture it would apply obviously if not it will not .I really have no idea .However if so it mentions an air vent in the top of the oil tank which if blocked could keep a pressure on the tank and effectively cause oil to squirt out .

 

[Al Smith]

Might also mention some of the 50 and 70 cc models used the same pump as the 85 and 100 cc saws

 

[nbbt]

I think I fond a downloadable service/rebuild that claims to cover the S50 for a 5 dollar bill from a noted used parts store. the manual claims to cover "Some of the models covered include: R16 R17 R18 R19 R20 R21 R35 R30 R417 R418 R420 R421 P55 P65 S50 S65 P70 P85 P100 S55 S65".

Other information: The 26 page Partner Factory Service Manual, covers older partner chainsaws. 55cc 65cc 70cc 85cc and 100cc models.

All the major systems of the chainsaw, tear down, and rebuild are covered. Chainbrake, clutch, muffler, piston and cylinder, crankcase, oil pump, ignition systems, coil, starter, handles, fuel tank, carburetor, air filter, and controls.

 

[nbbt]

Okay this might be it or it might not .According to the general service manual it says the 85 and 100 cc models use the gear driven piston type rotating shaft type pumps driven by a worm gear . If the s-50 uses the type in the picture it would apply obviously if not it will not .I really have no idea .However if so it mentions an air vent in the top of the oil tank which if blocked could keep a pressure on the tank and effectively cause oil to squirt out .

Thanks AL, will look at this later today.

 

[Al Smith]

Now a little negative .With my limited experience with any Partner products except the two P-100's I restored I'll just say this .IMO these are the most robustly saws I've ever seen with of course some things that could have been addressed other ways .That said they have the very worst illustrated parts lists I've ever seen .They could have done a lot better .Evidently to work on one you need the manual because just from a parts list it would be very difficult .

 

[nbbt]

I found a service manual and got the majority of the identified issues sorted out. Main thing I'm curious about is regarding the oil output, I need to take the oil pump out to be able to measure the pump plunger length.
They have 3 factory specified lengths with the longest pumping the most...
What I thought was a oil leak was actually a rotted out fuel line, ez line replacement fix and while I was at it added a fresh filter as well.
Replaced the clutch sprocket drum with the version that allows for quick change rim sprockets.
Went with a longer bar as well.
Seems to run and cut very well...