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Part Seven: Carburation

dustinwilt68

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Tractor supply absorbing junior gel, works the best of anursing I have used
 

cobey

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I think what Dallas was referring to was smaller than a small one. Did you really mean to say smaller than a large one?
On a auto v8, large airflow. ..
As is too many carbs, large carbs on small
Engines, you need bigger jets/bigger
Pump shot to keep the carb from leaning
Out because of a low vacuum signal.
Done this on (4) 2bbls, or (8) 1bbls
Ect Ect
 

drf256

Dr. Richard Cranium
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:icon_popcorn:

Interested to see what you guys have to say. I think the carb has to match the saw.

What I find intriguing is that I've seen saws make more power with the same size Venturi or a smaller carb. What's also interesting is how the fuel curve changes power.

If a carb provides a better stoiciometric ratio at cutting rpm it should be superior to one that allows a higher WFO rpm.

Then there's the balance of what you want a saw to do. I find a smaller carb will be more enjoyable to cut actual wood with, not race. In general, better starting, throttle response and overall "drivability".

I have an 024S with a ported 026 jug and an 044 carb on it that turns 17k. Sounds great, chews through a piece of wood at WOT. Throttle response is OK. When a tree goes down here and I need to do real cutting, I grab an 026 with the 194 carb. It just feels better to use.
 

drf256

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Nah.....I'm just sore from roofing.
Feel better Randy.

I've got tendonitis in my right arm for 2 months now. I used to think guys were just being wimps when they complained about it. I can assure you now that they were not.

Age and healing don't go together. It really sucks.
 

mdavlee

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Took me a good 6 months to get over tendinitis in one elbow from starting saws.

Some of the carbs with the same bore size like the WJ 116 and rwj4 are way different. The Solo would barely tune to 15k or less with the rwj4. Wj 116 it would tune right on down to 12k.
 

XP_Slinger

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The only carb swap I've done is on a recent build, running my XT carb on a 75cc XPW cylinder. But this is a well known practice. I'd be interested to hear experienced builder feedback about other proven combos like 357 carb on a 346, 394 carb on a 288 etc. From what I've learned these are some "go to" combos that have been proven to run well. But what's the gain? What do you sacrifice switching out the smaller bore carb for the bigger one? Or is it an all around improvement depending on port work? I would imagine these mods are about gaining higher rpm power especially when the engines vacuum pulse has greater volume than a smaller carb can support without restricting flow. In my mind, smaller Venturi equals snappy throttle, fast revving performance. But how do you know when it's time to step up the carb size? Like everything else I'm sure it's based on experience. But are there any tell tale characteristics that tell you that the saw needs more carb?
 

Tor R

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Its not always a bigger carb work out well, I dump 87's on 262's and 199's on 346, those things has worked well.

I gave 346 carb (hda 154) a try on my ported 242 and 42 special.
Same carb had different issues on those two, wot 14-18k on 242, either to fat or to lean, ran beautiful on idle.
Same carb had a perfect wot adjustment on 42 but ran like *s-word on idle.
Im not done to try out 346 carbs on them, next to try out is hda 195 for then to give the hda 182 a rebuild, the last is the one I got biggest hope for :)

Speaking about carbs, I updated and resetting 3 550 carbs today, since I had forgot to written down coil version we used 3 different coil combination, fun to see when one of them got a different firmware number....
 
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