There has been some discussion that the high level of viscosity index improvers in their All-Sport oil might cause heat related failure. I do not know the chemistry of that. That causes concern, warranted or not, of the brand and it's expensive.
Unfortunately that's where this discussion went a bit sideways. My br800 runs great on Red Armor but the Red Armor left a mess on the piston and Amsoil told me that Dominator would likely be overkill in a 4-mix engine. Just sayin'.....
I would love to see the main Husky designer chime in, lol. I would not be surprised if they designed these things NOT to ever be worked on by a porter. My question to the designer, “Son, what were you thinkin’? Hmm, there’s a line from a country song…
Never thought of removing a clutch like that. I just stop and make the needed tool and move on
Garage sale sockets make great removal tools.
You don't like oil threads yet your first post is to fan the flames in an oil related pissing match?
I haven't seen or, until now, even noticed they made an All-Sport oil. Anything Redline is expensive for sure. At the end of the day I can't help but come to the conclusion that there is no conclusive evidence that points to a clear winner. Some guys can break an anvil with both hands tied behind their back while others manage to keep junk running in tip-top condition just by using their happy thoughts.
Where did you get the idea I don't like oil threads? I clearly stated that "I love these oil threads".
Kind of like an OTR truck driver needs to care about their engine oil and someone like myself who drives less than 10k miles per year can get away with a more casual approach.
The tests I have seen found 2% biodiesel by far the best and cheapest diesel fuel lubricity enhancer. In this state they do not have to label biodiesel if it‘s less than 5% and that‘s probably what they are using. In the summer I use a station that lists 5 - 20% biodiesel blend in my older diesel engines. It is 10 cents less per gallon than the regular stuff they sell.
What's most notable about the tests done back in 2007 is that the baseline fuel used for the test was much, much worse than the baseline fuel I've seen in newer tests. IIRC the 2007 baseline fuel produced an HFRR scar around 620 microns and I've seen tests from within the last 5 years, some from Hot Shot's and Opti-Lube, where the baseline fuel was producing an HFRR scar around 345 microns which is below the 420 micron limit that was established by some, I can't recall the name, industry group. The fuel pumps in my are all indicate the diesel contains 'bio-mass based diesel' in varying percentages.
I had 6 tubs of various parts that I was thinking I might need one day. That was just worn out fs85, ms260 and br420 parts. Not to mention various mowers and trailers that I gave away when I moved to Alabama. You never know when hard times might hit so I saved it all. I only kept my original equipment and that was due to sentimental reasons.
Have you noticed any difference in the performance of the biodiesel?
Now that's funny but true!I haven't seen or, until now, even noticed they made an All-Sport oil. Anything Redline is expensive for sure. At the end of the day I can't help but come to the conclusion that there is no conclusive evidence that points to a clear winner. Some guys can break an anvil with both hands tied behind their back while others manage to keep junk running in tip-top condition just by using their happy thoughts.
Where did you get the idea I don't like oil threads? I clearly stated that "I love these oil threads".
Not anything less or more performance wise. I have noticed a quieter engine. I have not used greater than 20% as that‘s the most viscosity the lift pumps I have can handle. Fuel mileage increases slightly and the smell is pleasant like cooking something on the grill. Boy, if that was 2T oil the bears would be after your chainsaw…
I think somebody who has a following ruined an engine and blamed it on vi improvers in All-Sport oil. Whether it was some other substance that altered the viscosity or whatnot I don't know or care.
bwaaaaaaaaaa!
I think with bio-diesel the main differences are increased lubricity, higher temp cloud point, and increased wear on rubber components. The local hose shop used to have a shop truck that was 100% bio-diesel and they had all kinds of problems with leaks even when using all the materials that were supposed to resist the more caustic nature of bio-diesel. I've read some conflicting information about bio-diesel and minimum cetane ratings--some sources list 40 as the minimum while others list 47.
So I can run my saw on bacon grease now?
