Making my own flywheel pullers for Stihl equipment (and possibly others)

[SawAddictedFarmer]

The last few flywheels I've done I just used a 8oz soft hammer. 3-6 sharp taps is all it takes.

 

[Stump Shot]

Upon having just worked on a saw with bunged up threads on the end of the crank it would seem that it's an issue with some, as well as stripped threads are still threads for retaining nuts.
In the Husqvarna 2100 repair manual the tool listed to take the entire crankcase apart is, a brass hammer. This being 1970's tech, that's long been over with, and better things have come along since.
I have flywheel knocker tools from Stihl, Husqvarna and Echo, as well as flywheel pullers, except for Echo, they just have the one knocker tool with different thread adapters.
Pullers are great to use, sometimes even they need a whack with a hammer on the stubbornest of flywheels to release.
Knocker tools can be made simply and easily if so desired, either with a nut, a hunk of pipe and a welder, or a piece of round stock and drill and tap.
Yes, crankshafts can be bent, just like anything else, but removing the flywheel isn't an issue and has to be done to service the saw.

 

[bwalker]

Upon having just worked on a saw with bunged up threads on the end of the crank it would seem that it's an issue with some, as well as stripped threads are still threads for retaining nuts.
In the Husqvarna 2100 repair manual the tool listed to take the entire crankcase apart is, a brass hammer. This being 1970's tech, that's long been over with, and better things have come along since.
I have flywheel knocker tools from Stihl, Husqvarna and Echo, as well as flywheel pullers, except for Echo, they just have the one knocker tool with different thread adapters.
Pullers are great to use, sometimes even they need a whack with a hammer on the stubbornest of flywheels to release.
Knocker tools can be made simply and easily if so desired, either with a nut, a hunk of pipe and a welder, or a piece of round stock and drill and tap.
Yes, crankshafts can be bent, just like anything else, but removing the flywheel isn't an issue and has to be done to service the saw.

Partially screwing the nut down prevents the threads from getting boogers up.
As with anything a little common sense goes along ways.

 

[Al Smith]

If you going to get medevil with a hammer it had better be a dead blow or a lead hammer else even with soft brass you can f---k it up . Then again who am I to tell anybody how to work on their equipment ? You can thump it apart with an 8 pound sledge as far as I'm concerned ..

 

[Al Smith]

Off topic except for a hammer part .I once dissasembled a Caterpiller D4 pony motor that went through a fire .I think the burned up engine cost me 20 bucks .I cracked that thing like big hickory nut to salvage the crank shaft and one piston assembley using a die grinder and a 3 pound ball peen .It worked ,a lot less expensve than buying new parts at Caterpillar parts price .Sooo a hammer does have it's place

 

[bwalker]

If you going to get medevil with a hammer it had better be a dead blow or a lead hammer else even with soft brass you can f---k it up . Then again who am I to tell anybody how to work on their equipment ? You can thump it apart with an 8 pound sledge as far as I'm concerned ..

In the first point, one doesn't go "medevel" it only requires a slight tap. Second the nut prevents the threads from getting buggered. Given both these points a brass hammer works just fine. I may have used on a time or two.
One could also use a copper hammer if one has a propensity for being a ham fist.

 

[legdelimber]

I'll admit to using the flywheel nut set flush to the crank end.
A scrap of aluminum trim coil over the nut and a sharp tap from my trusty 8oz (steel) ball peen.
If need be, use a piece of masking tape to keep the trim coil scrap in place while you hold the saw.
Sometimes masking tape is handy for things other than keeping track of your reference points on a manual milling table.

 

[bwalker]

I'll admit to using the flywheel nut set flush to the crank end.
A scrap of aluminum trim coil over the nut and a sharp tap from my trusty 8oz (steel) ball peen.
If need be, use a piece of masking tape to keep the trim coil scrap in place while you hold the saw.
Sometimes masking tape is handy for things other than keeping track of your reference points on a manual milling table.

You got it figured out.
This *s-word isnt rocket science.