Low RPM torque/throttle response felling saw

[blackbruin]

I'd concur, right up until service parts are needed. The 288xp rises to the occasion in this regard, in every way and to my way of thinking puts it on top of the outdated 80-90cc heap for this reason alone.

For most people your right. But for those of us who have the resources or know the unadvertised connections it's a little different. Honestly I've ran both stock. I believe the 930 has a little more bottom end tell me if I'm wrong partially because of the crank stroke further in the case.
But like you said Steve for most the 288 is hard to beat in that class. And you can even get a nib one from praveen if need be.

 

[davidwyby]

OK, having felled with the 288 a bit now, I like it...but she's a mite heavy, at least for the size of stuff I've been cutting. The goal is light weight, grunt off idle, and longest bar for cc. Which after messing with my 266s and researching 372 vs 272 makes me think 272. A video by hotsaws101 and this quote by Holmen tree on AS stuck out to me.

"Yes the old edition 372XP is touchy in the wood. When I switched from the older Stihls (066 064 044) I found the 372 only had good power at WOT. Let off the throttle a bit in the cut while felling with the bar buried and the chain would seize with chips jammed in the bar rails. (I have experienced the chips in the rails plenty myself)
Keep the 372 rpm high and it was a laser in any size wood the 22" b/c could handle.

Interesting thing I noticed when a few years later when I bought a 272XP which is 13 years older then my 2006 372XP. The 272XP cylinder design didn't have the top end only high power capability. But more like the modern 372XP X Tork power with some grunt also on the lower midrange revs.

Ideally the older 272XP power band may be more user friendly with room to modify the porting and compression for more top end power, but in the end buying a new 372XP XT EPA regulations rules."

Now, I have an XS 2166, and I'm getting to splitting hairs here, but I wonder how it compares to a 272 with a least a BGD, MM, etc. I think the 2166 is a bit heavier and I prefer the KISS of the 272 vs. strato. I did some experimenting weighing saws and see what I can hold out sideways in front of me arms extended as if reaching and cleaning out a face or starting a cut, and 266 with a LW 24" is the limit of what I could do very much. I can get the 2166 28" out there but it would wear me out. Heck I did it with the 288 and 32" heavy stihl bar...

 

[Squareground3691]

OK, having felled with the 288 a bit now, I like it...but she's a mite heavy, at least for the size of stuff I've been cutting. The goal is light weight, grunt off idle, and longest bar for cc. Which after messing with my 266s and researching 372 vs 272 makes me think 272. A video by hotsaws101 and this quote by Holmen tree on AS stuck out to me.

"Yes the old edition 372XP is touchy in the wood. When I switched from the older Stihls (066 064 044) I found the 372 only had good power at WOT. Let off the throttle a bit in the cut while felling with the bar buried and the chain would seize with chips jammed in the bar rails. (I have experienced the chips in the rails plenty myself)
Keep the 372 rpm high and it was a laser in any size wood the 22" b/c could handle.

Interesting thing I noticed when a few years later when I bought a 272XP which is 13 years older then my 2006 372XP. The 272XP cylinder design didn't have the top end only high power capability. But more like the modern 372XP X Tork power with some grunt also on the lower midrange revs.

Ideally the older 272XP power band may be more user friendly with room to modify the porting and compression for more top end power, but in the end buying a new 372XP XT EPA regulations rules."

Now, I have an XS 2166, and I'm getting to splitting hairs here, but I wonder how it compares to a 272 with a least a BGD, MM, etc. I think the 2166 is a bit heavier and I prefer the KISS of the 272 vs. strato. I did some experimenting weighing saws and see what I can hold out sideways in front of me arms extended as if reaching and cleaning out a face or starting a cut, and 266 with a LW 24" is the limit of what I could do very much. I can get the 2166 28" out there but it would wear me out. Heck I did it with the 288 and 32" heavy stihl bar...

272xp is a great saw , yea it’s old school but they run real well .

 

[davidwyby]

Let's ask @Czed what he thinks. Oh wait, he started this...

old school is cool by me...

 

[Shane¹]

Have you considered just throwing a 7 pin on the 7900 should out cut a 272 and you already have one

 

[davidwyby]

Have you considered just throwing a 7 pin on the 7900 should out cut a 272 and you already have one

It has a 7 unless I'm playing at cookies. It's more of a RPM ripper (kevin built it for a cookie play saw for himself and then sold it to me). Outcut a 272 in speed yes, but I'm not looking for speed so much in a felling saw.

 

[Stump Shot]

A standard 268(non xp) will out big bar a 272, ask @Mastermind
572xp and ms500i fit your bill best for new saws I would hazard to say, ask @Normzilla

 

[davidwyby]

Very interesting on the 268 @Stump Shot. Would be cool to see dyno charts for these saws.

The 500 and 572 are hard to justify the cost with the amount of tree work I do...now anyway.

 

[Stump Shot]

Very interesting on the 268 @Stump Shot. Would be cool to see dyno charts for these saws.

The 500 and 572 are hard to justify the cost with the amount of tree work I do...now anyway.

Dyno charts can't tell you everything about actual cutting of a tree, only doing will tell that and is why I chimed in whom I did that have experience with such things.
572's are a fairly reasonable option of the two and cut like it's a larger saw than it is.

 

[davidwyby]

On the dyno I was thinking the torque curve and peak specifically. Would be interesting to throw the clutch into the equation...I have some ideas along that line.

 

[Stump Shot]

On the dyno I was thinking the torque curve and peak specifically. Would be interesting to throw the clutch into the equation...I have some ideas along that line.

There is a current new clutch with modern C-type springs that is very smooth for the 268/72. I have one on my 272xp and am very happy with it.

 

[farminkarman]

Now, I have an XS 2166, and I'm getting to splitting hairs here, but I wonder how it compares to a 272 with a least a BGD, MM, etc. I think the 2166 is a bit heavier and I prefer the KISS of the 272 vs. strato. I did some experimenting weighing saws and see what I can hold out sideways in front of me arms extended as if reaching and cleaning out a face or starting a cut, and 266 with a LW 24" is the limit of what I could do very much. I can get the 2166 28" out there but it would wear me out. Heck I did it with the 288 and 32" heavy stihl bar...

OK, having felled with the 288 a bit now, I like it...but she's a mite heavy, at least for the size of stuff I've been cutting. The goal is light weight, grunt off idle, and longest bar for cc. Which after messing with my 266s and researching 372 vs 272 makes me think 272. A video by hotsaws101 and this quote by Holmen tree on AS stuck out to me.

"Yes the old edition 372XP is touchy in the wood. When I switched from the older Stihls (066 064 044) I found the 372 only had good power at WOT. Let off the throttle a bit in the cut while felling with the bar buried and the chain would seize with chips jammed in the bar rails. (I have experienced the chips in the rails plenty myself)
Keep the 372 rpm high and it was a laser in any size wood the 22" b/c could handle.

Interesting thing I noticed when a few years later when I bought a 272XP which is 13 years older then my 2006 372XP. The 272XP cylinder design didn't have the top end only high power capability. But more like the modern 372XP X Tork power with some grunt also on the lower midrange revs.

Ideally the older 272XP power band may be more user friendly with room to modify the porting and compression for more top end power, but in the end buying a new 372XP XT EPA regulations rules."

Now, I have an XS 2166, and I'm getting to splitting hairs here, but I wonder how it compares to a 272 with a least a BGD, MM, etc. I think the 2166 is a bit heavier and I prefer the KISS of the 272 vs. strato. I did some experimenting weighing saws and see what I can hold out sideways in front of me arms extended as if reaching and cleaning out a face or starting a cut, and 266 with a LW 24" is the limit of what I could do very much. I can get the 2166 28" out there but it would wear me out. Heck I did it with the 288 and 32" heavy stihl bar...

If you’re looking for an excuse to make that 2166 more torquey, put a 51.4mm top end on it and have it ported for torque.

 

[Mastermind]

A standard 268(non xp) will out big bar a 272, ask @Mastermind
572xp and ms500i fit your bill best for new saws I would hazard to say, ask @Normzilla

268 FTW !!!!!!

 

[Squareground3691]

Fine 268

 

[davidwyby]

Not to derail too much, but why does the 268 outgrunt the 272? - and is that the open port 268?

 

[Squareground3691]

Not to derail too much, but why does the 268 outgrunt the 272? - and is that the open port 268?

Be interested in the same.

 

[cus_deluxe]

and is that the open port 268?

yes

Be interested in the same.

My guess would be kind of the same reason a lot of guys like the dolmar 6400 (open port) just as much or more as the 7900. Maybe just the right combo of bore/carb/case volume.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

OK, having felled with the 288 a bit now, I like it...but she's a mite heavy, at least for the size of stuff I've been cutting. The goal is light weight, grunt off idle, and longest bar for cc. Which after messing with my 266s and researching 372 vs 272 makes me think 272. A video by hotsaws101 and this quote by Holmen tree on AS stuck out to me.

"Yes the old edition 372XP is touchy in the wood. When I switched from the older Stihls (066 064 044) I found the 372 only had good power at WOT. Let off the throttle a bit in the cut while felling with the bar buried and the chain would seize with chips jammed in the bar rails. (I have experienced the chips in the rails plenty myself)
Keep the 372 rpm high and it was a laser in any size wood the 22" b/c could handle.

Interesting thing I noticed when a few years later when I bought a 272XP which is 13 years older then my 2006 372XP. The 272XP cylinder design didn't have the top end only high power capability. But more like the modern 372XP X Tork power with some grunt also on the lower midrange revs.

Ideally the older 272XP power band may be more user friendly with room to modify the porting and compression for more top end power, but in the end buying a new 372XP XT EPA regulations rules."

Now, I have an XS 2166, and I'm getting to splitting hairs here, but I wonder how it compares to a 272 with a least a BGD, MM, etc. I think the 2166 is a bit heavier and I prefer the KISS of the 272 vs. strato. I did some experimenting weighing saws and see what I can hold out sideways in front of me arms extended as if reaching and cleaning out a face or starting a cut, and 266 with a LW 24" is the limit of what I could do very much. I can get the 2166 28" out there but it would wear me out. Heck I did it with the 288 and 32" heavy stihl bar...

You might be making it harder than it has to be. Think about this ,even if you could muscle a ported 3120 with a 42" bar strait arm out that doesn't mean its under control while running and cutting, 9 horsepower is gonna control the operator if they mess around.
Using your felling spikes to pivot your cuts and resting the trigger handle on your thigh for cleaning up the notch are just 2 ways of supporting the power your saw is making so its not working you.
The torque you need is for when you sink those pointy spikes in and then its like running a radial arm saw on a fixed joint.

 

[davidwyby]

@Maintenance Chief yeah, I know. Previously I had just cut yard trees. Some big ones out in the country I pulled with the deuce, etc., but relatively flat ground where I could clear the area. Recently, burnt trees knee deep in ash hanging off a ravine swallowing the 32” bar. Can only access one side of the tree. Suddenly I “get” west coast style saw setups…also need to get some V stacks and big filters for some saws for this nasty stuff.

 

[davidwyby]

Even this was a bit of a hassle with the 288 at this height and extension. Getting the (felling) dogs slammed in until the cut gets started gets the weight off the operator. If you dog it and the saw can’t start the cut from there, bleh. Or at least not with winding it out to start from there or clean out a face, etc.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Lsr-9cCugLE?feature=share

A lot of it is just going with a lesser aggressive chain grind. I chased cookie times with the 7900 too much. That setup lags for felling.

Speaking of which, I know the hook and raker height affect grabbiness, but I have a feeling full chisel is inherently the most grabby, and semi chisel and square are probably less grabby…