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Low RPM torque/throttle response felling saw

huskyboy

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One thing that helps the 288 with throttle response is switching to the later model carb (probably EPA) that has the nozzle fuel inlet. I’ve swapped a lot of 394 carbs on these but that takes a bit of work and it’s not worth much more than finding the late model 288 carb.
I like the walbro wj117 carb on the 288. Has a nozzle in it.
 

Funky sawman

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I've always been a fan of single ring pistons, but I do find it odd that the 281/288 family saws had been designed with single ring while having a top speed of 12,500 stock. I see no advantage to running any saws with a single ring below the 14,000 rpm mark
 

Funky sawman

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Also, it is worth noting that a heavy saw will cause sloppy face cuts because a person wears out more quickly and muscle fatigue sets in, then you cannot comfortably and accurately make precise cuts. I get this way after sawing a day with the 395, I tend to rush my cutting and end up with poor results
 

jacob j.

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+1 I'm a decently fit young dude and after running it for an hour or two I was happy to swap the 125 out for my 562.

Slacker... just kidding. I've been running 125s every weekend now for a while. I was happy to run an 066 for half a day last weekend, it was a nice break.
 

Woodslasher

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Slacker... just kidding. I've been running 125s every weekend now for a while. I was happy to run an 066 for half a day last weekend, it was a nice break.
You're a tougher man than me, I ran the 125 for a few hours one evening and decided that unless I'm in 50"+ timber my 2100 will be the biggest saw I'll pack around. Are you doing logging work in some big timber or just testing out/breaking in a few builds?
 

jacob j.

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You're a tougher man than me, I ran the 125 for a few hours one evening and decided that unless I'm in 50"+ timber my 2100 will be the biggest saw I'll pack around. Are you doing logging work in some big timber or just testing out/breaking in a few builds?

Mainly clearing logging and forest service roads here. I work under a volunteer agreement with the local district and it helps me maintain my faller card with the gubberment.

I've been bucking some pretty good stuff - Western Hemlock and White Fir in the 24-36" range. A Mac 125 with a 33" bar is perfect...:uzi:
 

davidwyby

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Mainly clearing logging and forest service roads here. I work under a volunteer agreement with the local district and it helps me maintain my faller card with the gubberment.

I've been bucking some pretty good stuff - Western Hemlock and White Fir in the 24-36" range. A Mac 125 with a 33" bar is perfect...:uzi:
You uh, ahem, want some uh, help with that?
 

Woodslasher

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Mainly clearing logging and forest service roads here. I work under a volunteer agreement with the local district and it helps me maintain my faller card with the gubberment.

I've been bucking some pretty good stuff - Western Hemlock and White Fir in the 24-36" range. A Mac 125 with a 33" bar is perfect...:uzi:
Sounds fun, my falling/sawing fun is pretty much over till it starts raining again and I can burn all the stuff I slash. I'd rather run a peppy 461 or 066 flattie for wood that size, but I'm a bit of a slacker.
 

Squareground3691

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Mainly clearing logging and forest service roads here. I work under a volunteer agreement with the local district and it helps me maintain my faller card with the gubberment.

I've been bucking some pretty good stuff - Western Hemlock and White Fir in the 24-36" range. A Mac 125 with a 33" bar is perfect...:uzi:
Hello JJ , how’s my Westcoast friend doing you running full house or full skip on ur saws
 

davidwyby

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Sounds fun, my falling/sawing fun is pretty much over till it starts raining again and I can burn all the stuff I slash. I'd rather run a peppy 461 or 066 flattie for wood that size, but I'm a bit of a slacker.
Me too…7900 or 395…
 

Maintenance Chief

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It's not uncommon that I'll be cutting with a bunch of other people on a park, often they are using saws that aren't exactly well tuned, I'll let someone cut with one of my saws thats been worked over and they cut right through the hinge or way bypass the nocth face!
Sometimes slow and steady wins the race.
There's a few tricks to help get your notch right ,like making your top cut first so you can look down in the kerf for your bottom cut . It takes a little time to gun your shot from the top cut if you're used to using the bottom first . Switch to a Humboldt cut if its easier.
I'll use sidewalk chalk to draw my notch and back cut on trees over 35" DBH sometimes, then I can adjust the corners of the chalk by using a folding ruler to sight shot. Unfold the entire ruler and make a V ,touch each end to your drawing of the notch and that will give you a good estimate of your felling direction.
Hope this helps.
 
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