Logosol

[Stihl Potlicker]

this jig helps get log ends at same height

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

start of my 5"x8"

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

2nd cut

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

finally got my accessories in for the Logosol. mill is now 6 meters long. have to post pics and a vidja

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

milling lean to lumber

 

[Beaglejock]

I have found Archer Australia on Amazon, does anyone have experience with this brand? Their ripping chain is advertised as LP.

I run Archer ripping chain on my stihl 461 28 ' bar with my Logosol F2 get 1/4 " kerf and near perfect dimensions .

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

I run Archer ripping chain on my stihl 461 28 ' bar with my Logosol F2 get 1/4 " kerf and near perfect dimensions .

have you run Stihls 63PMX? curious on how they compare?

 

[Lightning Performance]

If this turns into a chain thread, I'm in.

Still following along looking for footnotes and tips milling.

 

[Lightning Performance]

how much do you need to turn off the dia. of the .404 rims?

That depends on how deep the drive segments are set on the rim and their width of the segment. Grabbing lp is usually the problem milling, I'm told. If your chain gets lose you can strip the drivers. I've done it on a 55dl work saw with plenty of power. Stretching it would be my worry mostly. My roller bar is a 28" 50 gauge. Got some 8 and 10 pin rims to use made for 3/8" regular. Found two regular 3/8" 8 pin rims that run smooth on lp chain. Didn't check the 10 yet.

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

That depends on how deep the drive segments are set on the rim and their width of the segment. Grabbing lp is usually the problem milling, I'm told. If your chain gets lose you can strip the drivers. I've done it on a 55dl work saw with plenty of power. Stretching it would be my worry mostly. My roller bar is a 28" 50 gauge. Got some 8 and 10 pin rims to use made for 3/8" regular. Found two regular 3/8" 8 pin rims that run smooth on lp chain. Didn't check the 10 yet.

i will check it out. been running the same lp 63PMX chain since i got the mill back in june.

 

[Firedog]

I purchased the 6m F2+ last fall. I cut a few beams before winter set in. I currently have it mounted on a trailer, but plan to mount it on a concrete slab this Summer. I’m using a Husky 390XP with 3/8 050 chain on a 24” husky bar. I immediately had a problem with an Oregon 24” solid nose bar. I accidentally order a Carlton 24” in .325, so I’ll be buying more chain in the future.

 

[SpaceBus]

I purchased the 6m F2+ last fall. I cut a few beams before winter set in. I currently have it mounted on a trailer, but plan to mount it on a concrete slab this Summer. I’m using a Husky 390XP with 3/8 050 chain on a 24” husky bar. I immediately had a problem with an Oregon 24” solid nose bar. I accidentally order a Carlton 24” in .325, so I’ll be buying more chain in the future.

I want to get a trailer this year to try and make some money with my tractor and equipment, but also to mount my mill to it. My next project is to build a wooden frame to mount the saw to in order to make it more consistent. I'm around 1/16" +/- right now, but sometimes my boards come out weird. I think my mill site got heaved up over the winter and my mill is a bit off now. I'm getting fairly consistent lumber with the Carlton chain and Oregon powermatch bar, but I sometimes have problems. My bar is getting a bit chewed up because sometimes the bar will randomly start rising in a cut, usually on a slabbing cut. Maybe I'm hitting some hidden debris in the bark and now suddenly the cutters all pull on one side. It's frustrating, but I learned how to be gentle with the saw with a less than ideal bar.

I want to try a loop of the 63PMX and a loop of the Archer so called LP chain, but I'm not sure how to get the appropriate drive sprocket, and I'm not keen on tearing up my nice 395xp. Allegedly Logosol makes a 3/8lp drive sprocket for a Stihl setup, but the Logosol website doesn't even show the special harnose bar anymore. Now they just sell Rollomatic ES bars.

Honestly, I don't know what to believe anymore in regards to saw chain to run on my saw.

 

[SpaceBus]

I'm glad to see some people talking on this thread! I just got back to milling a few days ago. The current project is working on fence posts for a pasture for my alpacas.

 

[SpaceBus]

Side question, is it normal for the choke pull on my 395xp to randomly pop out while the saw is running? Sometimes when coming off throttle the choke just closes up and the saw will die or lose power. The saw has been running great, not crazy hot, and making good power but still keeping it a bit rich on the top end. Been running 3.5-ish oz of oil per gallon of gas, saw has nice pops and four strokes when run wide open. Getting pretty damn good at grinding chains and can get a near finish quality cut on my mill. I owe some pics of my recent fence posts.

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

@SpaceBus i had to relevel mine too.
not sure about your husky as i run Stihl and i just put a G660 on it and have made a few cuts.

 

[SpaceBus]

@SpaceBus i had to relevel mine too.
not sure about your husky as i run Stihl and i just put a G660 on it and have made a few cuts.

Are you running the Stihl 63PMX chain on your original G660 drive sprocket? If so, then I should be able to run it as well.

 

[huskyboy]

Side question, is it normal for the choke pull on my 395xp to randomly pop out while the saw is running? Sometimes when coming off throttle the choke just closes up and the saw will die or lose power. The saw has been running great, not crazy hot, and making good power but still keeping it a bit rich on the top end. Been running 3.5-ish oz of oil per gallon of gas, saw has nice pops and four strokes when run wide open. Getting pretty damn good at grinding chains and can get a near finish quality cut on my mill. I owe some pics of my recent fence posts.

Your choke spring is weak. If you take the choke shaft out of the carb, there’s a notch in it. That notch lines up with a little metal ball with a spring behind it. That spring and ball are located in a little cavity behind the shaft hole. Carefully stretch out that spring to get more tension with two needle nose pliers. Then take a drill bit that fits into that notch on the shaft and enlarge it to be slightly deeper. This will allow a firmer choke position that locks the choke into position better. Reassemble carb and use red loctite on carb butterfly screw. You can also wind the choke shaft spring tighter but try the above first. I had to do this on several carburetors because they were sucking the choke shut at wide open throttle after I modified the saws. I had to increase the tension on both springs.

 

[SpaceBus]

Your choke spring is weak. If you take the choke shaft out of the carb, there’s a notch in it. That notch lines up with a little metal ball with a spring behind it. That spring and ball are located in a little cavity behind the shaft hole. Carefully stretch out that spring to get more tension with two needle nose pliers. Then take a drill bit that fits into that notch on the shaft and enlarge it to be slightly deeper. This will allow a firmer choke position that locks the choke into position better. Reassemble carb and use red loctite on carb butterfly screw. You can also wind the choke shaft spring tighter but try the above first. I had to do this on several carburetors because they were sucking the choke shut at wide open throttle after I modified the saws. I had to increase the tension on both springs.

Sounds like a good excuse for me to send it to a saw builder The dyno numbers only thread had me drooling over an 11 HP 395...

 

[huskyboy]

Sounds like a good excuse for me to send it to a saw builder The dyno numbers only thread had me drooling over an 11 HP 395...

Carb work is definitely fussy and frustrating. Can’t blame you for sending it out! A modded 395 is a good time.