Logosol

[Lightning Performance]

Maybe the Carlton is my best bet then. I'm pretty happy with the lumber when the guide rain and log bunks are all square. Any advice for building a saw shed on clay/glacial till? When I load up the mill with a pretty good size log it gets all out of square and I have to adjust everything again.

Tie together a base frame on four big rocks. Buildings like that don't heave in the frost and thaw. Use big wood pins in the timbers to lock the corners together and the beams.

I did a crap job today pulling the 55" spread on the chainsaw mill in red oak. Looked liked the ocean after two runs.
Going back to my ladder every pass and the chain is just too much. Too many cutters even with full skip and too much forward bite. The bar moves up and down when the wood grain/figure changes. Going down in face angle again but still have plenty of power left so that's good. Scratcher chain time soon.

 

[SpaceBus]

Tie together a base frame on four big rocks. Buildings like that don't heave in the frost and thaw. Use big wood pins in the timbers to lock the corners together and the beams.

I did a crap job today pulling the 55" spread on the chainsaw mill in red oak. Looked liked the ocean after two runs.
Going back to my ladder every pass and the chain is just too much. Too many cutters even with full skip and too much forward bite. The bar moves up and down when the wood grain/figure changes. Going down in face angle again but still have plenty of power left so that's good. Scratcher chain time soon.

I haven't milled any hardwood yet, we have so few on our property. When does it become too many cutters?

 

[Lightning Performance]

I haven't milled any hardwood yet, we have so few on our property. When does it become too many cutters?

Eighteen seems to be about it in my experience with 404 skip on long bars. Others will vary. It might run better with my chain not so aggressive imo. My big problem was forward bite and that has be cured. It will drag the saw down if pushed and bury you in chips pretty quick. I like chips on the mill

 

[SpaceBus]

This is what I've been milling lumber for. My lumber stack now consists of some 2x8's and 2x10's and some cut scrap ends. I'm going to build a small deck/platform for the "person" door and a trap door inside the screened area with a ramp down to the ground. The windows came out of our house and the door is from a nasty old shed the previous owners built on the side of the house (which we have demo'd). Aside from the nails and hardware cloth the rest of the structure was made from trees that I cut and milled myself. We dug the holes with a hydraulic auger drive that attaches to the loader on my tractor. Right now we just have 24 chickens, but the plan is to buy more chicks until our hens start raising their own.

I also built the raised beds with lumber from the mill, but these are my very first boards and are very rough.

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

Anyone running a Logosol mill here? I have had a 6m F2+ since the end of June and have finally gotten proficient with the mill. Perhaps this winter I'll build a saw shed and have a better area to work in. We have a lot of stuff to build on the property and once I have some outbuildings, there is just a tiny shed that I store my saws in, then we can get a planer and really start making some nice stuff. We have big plans but there never seems to be enough time.

Awesome i have the F+ 4 meter

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

Today the bar/chain rose in the cut, so I shut it down, sharpened the chain and filed the bar. The only change I made prior to that cut was adjusting the bar nose steering tube. After touching up the cutting equipment I also removed the bar nose steering and now boards are more accurate. I'll probably snag some LP ripping loops in the future, but I'm glad my boards are closer to the 1/32 tolerance I am looking for.

crap, so the bar nose steering is a waste? i am trying to order one.

 

[SpaceBus]

crap, so the bar nose steering is a waste? i am trying to order one.

I'm not saying it's a waste, it's probably user error on my part. The hand crank that comes with the steering is definitely worth it. You pretty much have to use the bar nose steering attachment points to run the water cooling as well. Do you have the fancy Stihl ripping loops?

 

[SpaceBus]

My little 12v battery died and does not appear to recharge, so now I just use the tractor as a power source for my grinder.

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

It's made by Stihl specifically for Logosol. My Maine Logosol dealer, the only one that isn't Bailey's, has not really offered me much in the way of advice or help. They are currently out of the 63 PMX in 84dl loops, but do have 72 dl loops, same as Bailey's. Unfortunately those are the only distributors of the 63 PMX in the US. I found an old Arborist site forum post about a guy that used to sell 63 PMX, but he got litigated out of business.

have you text Tom? when i first set up my mill, I text him some pics of it being out of square and he text me back asking if I squared up the legs, after I redid that the mill has been good. but just this week i was trying to order the Bar nose steering guide, 1 meter extensions, some 84 and 92 DL Stihl ripping chain, and the log turner, but not much help either. I emailed them multiple times trying to have them send me a invoice and link to pay, like they did when i bought the mill, but no luck, so hopefully Monday i will get the invoice.

 

[Stihl Potlicker]

I'm not saying it's a waste, it's probably user error on my part. The hand crank that comes with the steering is definitely worth it. You pretty much have to use the bar nose steering attachment points to run the water cooling as well. Do you have the fancy Stihl ripping loops?

yes i do, i got the 20" chains and hard nose bar free with the mill. don't like the hard nose bar. bought a roller nose one. I milled this wk some pine with my 24" b/c with some granberg ripping chain, but that seemed slower than the Stihl chain

 

[SpaceBus]

have you text Tom? when i first set up my mill, I text him some pics of it being out of square and he text me back asking if I squared up the legs, after I redid that the mill has been good. but just this week i was trying to order the Bar nose steering guide, 1 meter extensions, some 84 and 92 DL Stihl ripping chain, and the log turner, but not much help either. I emailed them multiple times trying to have them send me a invoice and link to pay, like they did when i bought the mill, but no luck, so hopefully Monday i will get the invoice.

Are you going through Fox Forestry? They can be hard to get a hold of since nobody is ever in the office. Seems like the crew is always out doing arborist work. Usually I just order through Bailey's and pay a bit more in shipping.

I file my Cartlon loops at 5 degrees and seems a bit slower but gives me a more consistent finish. Sometimes I think the Oregon raker file guide is letting me down and not taking enough off the rakers.

Part of my issue with the boards being slightly out of square is probably due to where I have the mill set up. I basically used my root rake and plowed a fairly flat spot with my tractor and then dropped the mill there. This was a mistake and the mill settled funny once I loaded up my log table. I've had to make several rail adjustments since the ground keeps settling. It will only get worse once winter comes. Once I get some more trees cleared and more flat ground exposed I plan on dropping some posts 7' in the ground and building a post/pier foundation for an extra flat/level/square setup.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I,m a bit late here
Have you had any chains break yet using the 3/8 lopro on a std 3/8 sprocket

I came across a guy keep getting lopro chains breaking, on another forum. Took a long time to figure it all out.
Turns out he had a std 3/8 sprocket and using a lopro chain.
This was a pic I marked up showing the wear. Where the stress points were by using what he was using

 

[SpaceBus]

Your photos make me think Logosol offers their "own" hard nose bar for running 3/8 LP to avoid that damage.

 

[Deets066]

Your photos make me think Logosol offers their "own" hard nose bar for running 3/8 LP to avoid that damage.

They used to

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I will see if I can dig out the thread... it’s in the brain but finding things on the net is more different than difficult

it’s been know for a long time one way it works and the other it’s less than forgiving

there were a few threads about turning down a 404 rim for a 3/8 lopro.. it fits better or somthing like that.. but you can’t turn down a 3/8 std to fit a lopro 3/8

I could start looking but I know it’s not worth my time.. but I will try and find the long winded thread about why the chain broke etc and the way it was found out.. also the arse it was

btw, l will say right now if you have not had problems so far.. good on you... just maybe they changed somthing, but don’t say I didn’t say chains can break because.....

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Here ya go... have a meander through this,,, and Please tell me yours is different...

https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/112568-chain-snaps/#comments

 

[SpaceBus]

The other fellow is running the Stihl 63 PMX, I'm running Carlton 30Rp loops, which to my knowledge are not low profile. Thank you for finding the thread, I'll have a look through when I have some time.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Sorry I must have been reading to fast and miss understood..

but just to add,, you will get a more betterer finish using semi chisel cutters. If you use full chisel you will get the wash board effect.

If you plan to run 3/8 low profile chain you will need a bar and rim sprocket set up for it. .325 narrow kerf might also be something to look into.

3/8 low pro runs on standard 3/8 equipment just fine. It's a .370 vs .375 profile.

If you say so. I can't believe LP would ride on a standard 3/8 sprocket nose worth crap. I suppose a hard nose would be fine. I have a box of Stihl picco here if you would like to try a loop. It's green chain so I'm not sure if it would be great for milling.

Running LP on standard 3/8" seven rims will chew up the drivers pretty fast... ask my 361 about that.



Me thinks a hard nose will chew up the little LP chain chassis pretty quick but I can try it on 66ish dl.

Can give that green stuff a whirl if your willing to send over some from your roll.

375 + 4 presets

The one drawback imo will be the tiny 050 gauge rocks more in the bar. Not sure if will pull without breaking with zero ground chisel so ten degrees it is.

 

[SpaceBus]

Sorry I must have been reading to fast and miss understood..

but just to add,, you will get a more betterer finish using semi chisel cutters. If you use full chisel you will get the wash board effect.

Thanks for the tip about full chisel. I was considering converting one of my full chisel loops from a different saw, but now I know it's not worth it. I was really interested in the 63 PMX, but at the price it definitely doesn't seem worth it if I'll just trash it. Why would Logosol suggest running an LP chain on a saw that won't accommodate it? Curious to see that there are so many opinions about it, I figured it would be pretty cut and dry!

 

[SpaceBus]

Here ya go... have a meander through this,,, and Please tell me yours is different...

https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/112568-chain-snaps/#comments

I read through the whole thing, seems fairly inconclusive. I suspect there are no 3/8 LP drive sprockets for the 395xp, so I'll stick with the Carlton loops I suppose. When those go bad I'll probably get more Carlton or maybe even try the Archer loops. With affordable loops I could easily justify grinding the teeth back to narrow the kerf a bit.