Logosol

[SpaceBus]

Anyone running a Logosol mill here? I have had a 6m F2+ since the end of June and have finally gotten proficient with the mill. Perhaps this winter I'll build a saw shed and have a better area to work in. We have a lot of stuff to build on the property and once I have some outbuildings, there is just a tiny shed that I store my saws in, then we can get a planer and really start making some nice stuff. We have big plans but there never seems to be enough time.

 

[blades]

or money for the toys

 

[SpaceBus]

or money for the toys

If I had more money I wouldn't have to build it all myself

 

[blades]

Boy, do I understand that. I needed to replace a drive belt on a machine. Last time, 1999, it was $16, same belt same mfg is now $66. In the course of things I found a some other problems- Oem Parts added up to $3000. Every part I requested info on started at $4xx.00 on up. Bottom line my total repair bill was $500 in parts including having 2 new keyways cut by EDM. I could have done them myself but that would likely have taken to long- old school mill a slot and hand file it out, or make a tool holding block and grind a tool for the shaper to cut the internal slots. Murphy has been working over time at my shop as of late. One of my TC grinders went down- for the life of me I could not find the glitch, and I am no slouch on electrical's . I knew what but could not find where. Called in the expensive boys- interlock switch on electrical cabinet door - continuity wise ok and passing voltage and current as evidenced by control status lights being on but not passing enough current/ voltage to actuate control relay coils. I never checked the voltage or current passing through said switch- bad on me. This on a 110v AC control circuit- main power is 220v 3 phase- new one on me, but have seen similar in solid state circuits but heck those are only a max of 5volts dc and nanoamps mostly, not 110v ac 10 amp circuit.

 

[SpaceBus]

Boy, do I understand that. I needed to replace a drive belt on a machine. Last time, 1999, it was $16, same belt same mfg is now $66. In the course of things I found a some other problems- Oem Parts added up to $3000. Every part I requested info on started at $4xx.00 on up. Bottom line my total repair bill was $500 in parts including having 2 new keyways cut by EDM. I could have done them myself but that would likely have taken to long- old school mill a slot and hand file it out, or make a tool holding block and grind a tool for the shaper to cut the internal slots. Murphy has been working over time at my shop as of late. One of my TC grinders went down- for the life of me I could not find the glitch, and I am no slouch on electrical's . I knew what but could not find where. Called in the expensive boys- interlock switch on electrical cabinet door - continuity wise ok and passing voltage and current as evidenced by control status lights being on but not passing enough current/ voltage to actuate control relay coils. I never checked the voltage or current passing through said switch- bad on me. This on a 110v AC control circuit- main power is 220v 3 phase- new one on me, but have seen similar in solid state circuits but heck those are only a max of 5volts dc and nanoamps mostly, not 110v ac 10 amp circuit.

Seems like everyone is encountering Murphy these days.

 

[SpaceBus]

I'm finding my Carlton/Forester 30RP "narrow kerf" ripping chain to not be true to 1/4". My 1" boards turn out 15/16" and my 2" boards turn out 1 15/16". This is close enough for me for the time being, but I'd like to have a 1/4" kerf and my Logosol user manual states this is possible. I reached out to my Logosol dealer to ask about availability of the Stihl 63 PMX chain and if the kerf is true to 1/4". They didn't answer my question or have 84 DL loops in stock. Bailey's online carries the 63 PMX chain, but it's spendy. I would like to know if the kerf will really be 1/4" like my manual states before shelling out the bucks on the fancy chain. My Carlton chains hold an edge pretty well and have a reasonable kerf.

 

[blades]

perhaps your bar is worn in the slot, allowing the chain to dance sideways a bit. they do make bar rail closers for just this problem. a combination of a loose bar and worn drive links could be your problem ( stacked tolerances).

 

[angelo c]

Seems like everyone is encountering Murphy these days.

yeah...Murphy is MY GOVERNOR....its hard to avoid that A holer

 

[SpaceBus]

perhaps your bar is worn in the slot, allowing the chain to dance sideways a bit. they do make bar rail closers for just this problem. a combination of a loose bar and worn drive links could be your problem ( stacked tolerances).

The bar has been used for about 120 board feet. I ran it for one log, flipped it, and ran it for another log. That is all the use it has. The chain has seen several hundred board feet, but is mostly new. Perhaps my chain could be tighter though, as both the bar and chain are still wearing in.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Lp cuts 1/4" on sort bars. Have not put it on long bars myself, yet.

 

[SpaceBus]

Could be that I was mistaken and the Woodland pro/Carlton chain is NOT a low profile chain.

https://www.baileysonline.com/woodlandpro-30rp-ripping-chain-per-drive-link-wp375-30rp.html

I have a couple of 84dl .050" loops, one unused. So far all of the lumber is being used for a chicken coop, so 1/16th doesn't really matter. I do want to build a nice tool shed with +/- 1/32" tolerance lumber, so looks like I'll be ordering a couple of pricey loops of the 63 PMX.... Good to know I can use the Carlton loops in the future for ripping 5/8 clap boards.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Could be that I was mistaken and the Woodland pro/Carlton chain is NOT a low profile chain.

https://www.baileysonline.com/woodlandpro-30rp-ripping-chain-per-drive-link-wp375-30rp.html

I have a couple of 84dl .050" loops, one unused. So far all of the lumber is being used for a chicken coop, so 1/16th doesn't really matter. I do want to build a nice tool shed with +/- 1/32" tolerance lumber, so looks like I'll be ordering a couple of pricey loops of the 63 PMX.... Good to know I can use the Carlton loops in the future for ripping 5/8 clap boards.

Maybe it has micro cutters on a standard chassis.

 

[SpaceBus]

Maybe it has micro cutters on a standard chassis.

It's made by Stihl specifically for Logosol. My Maine Logosol dealer, the only one that isn't Bailey's, has not really offered me much in the way of advice or help. They are currently out of the 63 PMX in 84dl loops, but do have 72 dl loops, same as Bailey's. Unfortunately those are the only distributors of the 63 PMX in the US. I found an old Arborist site forum post about a guy that used to sell 63 PMX, but he got litigated out of business.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Buy some other chain. Several companies make lp and yes you'll get more stretch with other brands.

If your bar is not perfectly parallel it will increase the kerf. 404 takes a 7/16 bite out off stuff when it off just a little.

 

[SpaceBus]

Buy some other chain. Several companies make lp and yes you'll get more stretch with other brands.

If your bar is not perfectly parallel it will increase the kerf. 404 takes a 7/16 bite out off stuff when it off just a little.

I thought my Carlton 30 RP was an LP chain, but further reading reveals I need the 30 LP, but that doesn't seem to be available anymore. Do you have any links to 84dl 3/8 LP chain in .050"?

 

[SpaceBus]

I have found Archer Australia on Amazon, does anyone have experience with this brand? Their ripping chain is advertised as LP.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I have found Archer Australia on Amazon, does anyone have experience with this brand? Their ripping chain is advertised as LP.

Interested in going in together on chain and I'll make us up some loops?
Maybe some others out there?

I'm all set to run 3/8lp now on anything through 90cc.


We can try some different chains but the Raisman does stretch a bit in 55DL. I run it on small saws. It does stabilize, eventually. That said making up chain is something I can do, anytime. Trying out some LP in 84 and 114dl is something I'd like to try very soon. If your game let me know. You pick the brand so that way you got no one to blame but me and you lol

Archer is good chain. Have it on a 3/8 063 105 loop, 92cc saw and a few others. It's been run through large old maple hardwood stumps with metal in them. The teeth bend where Carlton tends to break cutters in my experience. Mostly running Stihl and Oregon when it can be had reasonable. I have Calton among a few others. I'll try most types and manufactures of saw chain but the real cheap stuff is a waste of time.

Loops?
1/4 roll?
Full roll?...

Mailing you chain should be cheap in flat rate boxes usps.
I will be running some odd dl sizes myself. Starting most of my loops a link short when possible on any chain. It can trickery to slide on the rim and assembled bar with the chain installed. Depending on the rim some need an extra link or two with bar conversions, swaps with adaptors or universal mounts from various manufacturers. It's just easier for me to make chain now.

 

[SpaceBus]

Interested in going in together on chain and I'll make us up some loops?
Maybe some others out there?

I'm all set to run 3/8lp now on anything through 90cc.


We can try some different chains but the Raisman does stretch a bit in 55DL. I run it on small saws. It does stabilize, eventually. That said making up chain is something I can do, anytime. Trying out some LP in 84 and 114dl is something I'd like to try very soon. If your game let me know. You pick the brand so that way you got no one to blame but me and you lol

Archer is good chain. Have it on a 3/8 063 105 loop, 92cc saw and a few others. It's been run through large old maple hardwood stumps with metal in them. The teeth bend where Carlton tends to break cutters in my experience. Mostly running Stihl and Oregon when it can be had reasonable. I have Calton among a few others. I'll try most types and manufactures of saw chain but the real cheap stuff is a waste of time.

Loops?
1/4 roll?
Full roll?...

Mailing you chain should be cheap in flat rate boxes usps.
I will be running some odd dl sizes myself. Starting most of my loops a link short when possible on any chain. It can trickery to slide on the rim and assembled bar with the chain installed. Depending on the rim some need an extra link or two with bar conversions, swaps with adaptors or universal mounts from various manufacturers. It's just easier for me to make chain now.

I would have to consider the offer some more. The last few months has taught me that I don't know half of what I thought I did about saws and chains. I've been able to keep my firewood and limbing saws shooting out chips, but now that I have entered the world of chainsaw milling I'm a bit out of my depth. I've never even heard of Raisman or Archer before today.

The first bar I bought for milling was a 24" Oregon Powermatch that I really messed up. It's pretty pinched right where the bar first meets the wood on both sides. The short of it is that I basically burned the bar after I sharpened the left hand cutters in the wrong direction. Couldn't figure out why the bar kept climbing in the cut, trying to muscle the saw through the cut, flipping the bar, etc. Didn't think it could have been a mistake sharpening the chain, but it definitely was. I read on the Forestry Forum that the Carlton 30RP loops were low profile and would cut a nice 1/4" kerf, unlike the Oregon ripping chains I had been using, so I bought a pair from amazon for a decent price. Found out I accidentally ordered the .050 instead of .058 my Oregon bar called for, so ordered two more loops. The .050 loops came in handy when the 395 went down since I had a spare .050 24" bar for my 460. Anyway, I bought a new Oregon Powercut 24" bar in .050 to run the Carlton chains. One loop hasn't even been used and I just sharpen the one chain and flip the bar ever few hundred board feet.

With a lot of patience and chain tension you can get the pinched Powermatch bar to mill a decent board, but I'm going to use those four .058 loops and bar to be backup for the backup. The .050 Carlton loop filed at 5 degrees on the top plate with the Powercut bar can almost cut as smooth as a planed board, especially now that I've gotten the Logosol really well dialed in.

 

[SpaceBus]

Is it worth it to get a skip tooth chain? I'm also considering getting a 20" setup as well since we have very few trees that will max out my 24" bar to be honest. However, I'm finding that a 20" bar in large Husky format in .050" is hard to find.

 

[SpaceBus]

Today the bar/chain rose in the cut, so I shut it down, sharpened the chain and filed the bar. The only change I made prior to that cut was adjusting the bar nose steering tube. After touching up the cutting equipment I also removed the bar nose steering and now boards are more accurate. I'll probably snag some LP ripping loops in the future, but I'm glad my boards are closer to the 1/32 tolerance I am looking for.