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Let's talk race chain

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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Agree'd. I'd not waste my time on skip either.

That,s not skip so that must be in regards to my comment about making a first attempt to learn how to 'chisel' file'. I figured he was interested in learning first and perhaps start using square for work if all went well. A wasn't suggesting go buy a 16 skip to make a race chain. I didn't think that's what was implied. Not by me anyway.



If one were attempting to make a full blown race loop, I’d (just my measly .02 here fellers, take it for what it’s worth) not tell anyone to start on a loop of skip chain for a 16-18” bar.
Remember, 2nd place is the first looser. :nusenuse:
Why Is it I clarify this and I would have to assume you read it as you gave it a like; as I took that to mean you achnowledge the misunderstanding? Correct?

Was it not ten min later you take this shot at me? You see the problem we are having here. What's your deal? Seems kind of deliberate, no?
I don't see you treating others like that or I doubt you would be posting here.

What is the real problem here? Am I stepping on peoples fingers and toes? Just use the quote button and let me know.
A couple of men right.
 
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concretegrazer

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That would be the back rivet centre I refer to and the leading edge (Zero 'lift' position)
So its a 'see saw' (teeter totter) effect.
In 'attack mode' the teeter totter is always 'back heavy' so if it's behind the rivet centre then when the raker comes 'up'the tooth dips 'down' (out of the wood in theory) but think of forward speed at the same time. There is very little contact with the raker and the wood . If its a full tooth then the raker will slam hard up into the wood on contact.
In the case of regular cutting you need a lot off the raker to match what a new chain would be at say 25 or 30 thou.
I think Carlton said around 60 thou.
I believe you can get 47 thou with the carlton file o plate progressive gauge and 42 with the Oregon/Husqvarna gauge on the Stihl 3/8. With a saddle raker gauge you can only get about 45 of what it needs to be. Basically they just remain at .025"

I believe that the engagement of the cutter behind the leading one causes the leader to disengage not the raker creating the seesaw effect.

But yes the attack angle changes as the cutter gets shorter. And may need to be compensated for.
 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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I believe that the engagement of the cutter behind the leading one causes the leader to disengage not the raker creating the seesaw effect.

But yes the attack angle changes as the cutter gets shorter. And may need to be compensated for.
lol . Yes correct. I was a bit tired. Sometime I write a bit loose anyways.
I guess I should have said "when the raker comes up" dot dot dot...lol
For reg chain applications you can use the older 404 progressive gauge on the 3/8 if you want a little more bite. It's the older husky and oregon gauges that had no side lip on then, they are thinner and the same length as 3/8 softwood setting. No sure if they are still sold thinner. 325 softwood settings are shorter and can be used on the back end of a 3/8 chain too. Gauges are cheep and easy to custom a few to your likings anyway. Just a few tricks.

^^^ Oregan/ husqy again
 
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Wolverine

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Why Is it a clarify this and I would have to assume you read it as you gave it a like; as I took that to mean to me you achnowledge the misunderstanding? Correct?

Was it not ten min later you take this shot at me? You see the problem we are having here. What's your deal? Seems kind of deliberate, no?
I don't see you treating others like that or I doubt you would be post here.

What is the real problem here? Am I stepping on peoples fingers and toes? Just use the quote button and let me know.
A couple of men right.
I have no issues with you at all. I wasn’t “taking shots”, actually far from it. In this thread I’m talking race chain and you were discussing a person first learning to file, which is why I saw no need to quote anything.
If someone is making a full blown race loop for the first time, as I mentioned, I’d recommend full comp chain. If anyone disagrees, so be it. I ain’t gonna get my panties in a bunch. This is a garden tool forum after all. :D

I’m a relative newb to race chain so I’m here to learn more than anything, which is why I started the thread.


Now then, how’s the progress on my raker? Looks fast right? :risas3:
F0FA62EB-2E0C-412F-88C7-86CE0226D21C.jpeg
 

Armbru84

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I have no issues with you at all. I wasn’t “taking shots”, actually far from it. In this thread I’m talking race chain and you were discussing a person first learning to file, which is why I saw no need to quote anything.
If someone is making a full blown race loop for the first time, as I mentioned, I’d recommend full comp chain. If anyone disagrees, so be it. I ain’t gonna get my panties in a bunch. This is a garden tool forum after all. :D

I’m a relative newb to race chain so I’m here to learn more than anything, which is why I started the thread.


Now then, how’s the progress on my raker? Looks fast right? :risas3:
View attachment 173044
Looks like you may have hit something...:nusenuse:
 

concretegrazer

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I have no issues with you at all. I wasn’t “taking shots”, actually far from it. In this thread I’m talking race chain and you were discussing a person first learning to file, which is why I saw no need to quote anything.
If someone is making a full blown race loop for the first time, as I mentioned, I’d recommend full comp chain. If anyone disagrees, so be it. I ain’t gonna get my panties in a bunch. This is a garden tool forum after all. :D

I’m a relative newb to race chain so I’m here to learn more than anything, which is why I started the thread.


Now then, how’s the progress on my raker? Looks fast right? :risas3:
View attachment 173044

You might wanna use full chisel if'n your gonna build a race chain... :roto2nuse:
 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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LMAO



Chatting in the wood or thumpidy in the rev too? and you used two chains on the other saw right?
If its much better with the faster saw then
It seems the centripetal force is smoothing it out? Try it on a faster saw? Lol do you have a pic of it up here?
If you had a bent tooth of raker I have my doubts it would have got better... but worse.

Edit gotcha^^^
 

Deets066

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LMAO



Chatting in the wood or thumpidy in the rev too? and you used two chains on the other saw right?
If its much better with the faster saw then
It seems the centripetal force is smoothing it out? Try it on a faster saw? Lol do you have a pic of it up here?
If you had a bent tooth of raker I have my doubts it would have got better... but worse.

Edit gotcha^^^
It feels like a chain with the rakers way too low, but doesn’t seem to pull the saw down too bad. That’s why I figured I’d try on a bigger saw.
C5487AB0-6318-4799-AED9-483EA0C1C762.jpeg
6D34E10E-B795-4A9B-BE0F-2FE31669B23D.jpeg
EFBB3E06-BCBD-4849-B4D0-6A7906CE183B.jpeg
 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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It feels like a chain with the rakers way too low, but doesn’t seem to pull the saw down too bad. That’s why I figured I’d try on a bigger saw.
View attachment 173058
View attachment 173057
View attachment 173059


Cutter looks pretty mean.


I can see one cutter/ raker
One other rakers in the distance and it looks flatter than the one a see in the close up. Almost appears it has a slight back slope? Probably not.

The raker profile is not a good match from what I can see..(maybe very close) As I believe with the extra speed now I think the centripetal force is greater than the resistance it takes to break a chip. so it is staying flatter = smoother = cutters doesn't tip out of the wood?
I would try angle the top a few degrees and round in the front 1/4

My 2¢

*Edit
 
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