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Just Another 395xp Build Thread

Postrip

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Ok... A little work on the piston.
Keep in mind this is a basic worksaw build for an older guy.
He's wanting more power,smoother running,but not hard starting,and certainly wants reliability.
My own personal race saws are taken much further in all aspects of the build process;)
Standard piston..
IMG_0279.JPG
Modded piston..
IMG_0280.JPG
No need to go ballistic here, just cleaning out the casting marks from the transfer windows.
This will lighten the piston a little,but more importantly "aids flow"
Note: I always leave both gudgeon pin clips with the tang at the top.
It may never make a difference, but at 13,000+ rpm's I like to have things symmetrical:)
 

Postrip

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As the owner wants to keep it simple & low key, we are only doing a gasket delete.
After measuring squish it'll have .70mm squish clearance, that's a little excessive 4 my liking but...... on with the show.

Setting up degree wheel 2 measure some ports
IMG_0285.JPG
And roughing in the transfers...
IMG_0286.JPG
 

peter92

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As the owner wants to keep it simple & low key, we are only doing a gasket delete.
After measuring squish it'll have .70mm squish clearance, that's a little excessive 4 my liking but...... on with the show.

Setting up degree wheel 2 measure some ports
View attachment 57704
And roughing in the transfers...
View attachment 57705[/QUOTE
looking forwards to see what the port timing is
 

Postrip

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if you take too much out of the ports , will it make the saw run hot , so what would be too much on those numbers to throw the cylinder away , im just trying to understand and learn about this
It really depends on what you need to achieve!
Numbers 4 my hotsaws are way different to these numbers,as is the porting.
Most important thing 4 a beginner is to not widen ports 2 far.... it will "free port" if you do.
A general rule of thumb is 1 up/1 down
1mm up for exhaust,1mm down for intake.
I've done quite a few different models now, changed things around a little,and gained some great results :)
 

peter92

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It really depends on what you need to achieve!
Numbers 4 my hotsaws are way different to these numbers,as is the porting.
Most important thing 4 a beginner is to not widen ports 2 far.... it will "free port" if you do.
A general rule of thumb is 1 up/1 down
1mm up for exhaust,1mm down for intake.
I've done quite a few different models now, changed things around a little,and gained some great results :)
thanks for that info , it is just what i was after, whats "free port"
 

danimal

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Lacks character. There's no holes in the front of the cases or recoil. No cracked clutch cover or dented muffler. Operator presence lever is still operational. Top handle isn't on a funky angle. Still all one color. Sumptin ain't right here
Let me borrow it, i'll let my buddy run it for a day. He will put that 3 yrs of logging look on it..
 

XP_Slinger

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Great thread! Very generous in sharing details and great pics.

Jacking up the timing so the transfers are opening before the intake is closed is also a version of "free port"...Correct?

Sub Sub Subbed:icon_popcorn:
 

Postrip

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Great thread! Very generous in sharing details and great pics.

Jacking up the timing so the transfers are opening before the intake is closed is also a version of "free port"...Correct?

Sub Sub Subbed:icon_popcorn:
That would be correct.... however it's nearly impossible to achieve.
Especially on a husky,they have long & wide piston skirts:)
 

Postrip

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Ignition timing has been left stock standard at this point.
It's running a 20" sugi bar 3/8 .058 LGX chain
Fuel is 98oct unleaded mixed at 40:1 royal purple tcw111 racing synthetic oil.
I test run the saw this morning, will upload a video shortly. :)
 
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