HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

[CJ Brown]

Here's your piston.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352530505484?hash=item5214749f0c:g:AXsAAOSwl29b~96U

 

[Iroczu]

My 162se purchase, saved it from visiting a spoon factory over seas burried in a shred pile and bought these 2 for parts not knowing to my amazement it ran and runs dang good and strong. Getting a 272 on top and porting it. $34 bucks for 2 saws

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I believe those silver metal tags were used until '87 when they introduced the seven digit black tags. I'm going with 1980 as the first number has usually represented the second digit of the decade for the early tags.

The guy below has done quite a bit of research on the matter and confirms the general information I've seen over the years. He may be splitting hairs in a few areas and totally off base in others ("The year of manufacture is rarely printed anywhere on the saw"), but gets an 'A' for effort nonetheless.

On the other hand, he also claims that Stihl serial numbers can determine date of manufacture -- which they evidently can if you have access to such information stored deep in the bowels of Stihl production run databases, etc., but not by any common pattern or convention used in the serial number format itself. Stihl themselves will tell you that. Matter of fact, there was a point in time where Stihl actually started over in their numbering during the 045/056/051/075/076 era. (As if they weren't confusing enough by changing parts and keeping the same part numbers!)

Also included in the Stihl section is a rather ambitious effort to provide "tools" to determine date of manufacture (among other things) by simply entering a serial number and proving you're not a robot. Similar claims go for a part number "tool" which provides unit information simply based on a part number. This could be fun to play with on a rainy day, but probably not for long. To the guy's credit, some disclaimers are provided about the effectiveness of the effort..., and they are warranted.

Anyway, for those with some spare time on your hands, you too can be a Husky serial number expert in a few easy steps!
https://workshoppist.com/husqvarna-saw-year-from-serial/

Anyone know who this guy is? Pretty industrious fellow.

 

[CJ Brown]

The first digit of the serial number on black tags will represent the last digit of the year eg: "8" would be 1988 or "1" would be 1991 etc. That system was not in place for the early silver tag saws. I have a 1983 154se here but the first number on the tag is "0". I also have a 444sg made in 1982, but again the first number on the tag is "0". A saw manufactured in 1980 could very well have "0" as the first number in the serial tag, but that would be more of a coincidence than anything. Also, I'm not sure that the 240S was still being manufactured in 1980 - I think by then it would have been called 240SE or 240SG.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The first digit of the serial number on black tags will represent the last digit of the year eg: "8" would be 1988 or "1" would be 1991 etc.

I understand that to have definitely begun in 1987. The silver tags seem to have remained somewhat of a mystery to this day. I was just guessing based on the convention adopted in '87. But since you mentioned it, I do now recall 0's generally preceding the other numbers on 7 digit silver tags. Don't have any handy at the moment, but seem to recall a discussion (here maybe?) on the subject with respect to some old model 61 variations. Could be coincidence, but as you say, pretty unlikely.

 

[CJ Brown]

There was a pretty good discussion at one time involving Sawtroll and few others concerning Husqvarna build dates. I wouldn't have a clue how to find it but I recall it was an interesting read if you are interested in Husqvarna chainsaw history.

 

[justoldsaws]

Have only put 3 tanks through it, very impressed so far, running a 20" with C85

 

[psuiewalsh]

Doesn't seem to align with your screen name though.

 

[justoldsaws]

Doesn't seem to align with your screen name though.

Yes, thats also been brought to my attention on another thread.
Needs changing to justoldandnewsaws

 

[psuiewalsh]

When my OE 372 dies a 572 is at the top of the list.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Dibz on your dead 372!

 

[XP for Life]

Spoke to the Husqvarna rep and he said the 372 is in the lineup once again for 2022. Going to be hard to kill that saw. I have my pitchfork and shovel ready when they do.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I actually had to do an organ transplant just yesterday on my otherwise bullet proof '96 371xp. Coil finally gave out. Fortunately I had a handy 350 carcass in a box with a good one. Back in business.

Question, though; All of a sudden the choke won't engage, which obviously also doesn't engage the high idle for starting. Kind of a head scratcher at this point. It's almost like the choke rod is too long to pull the linkage back far enough to engage. Maybe it is? Like the splayed nubs are worn down just enough to cause the issue? Don't have another one to swap in as a test. Or maybe the carb itself is somehow moving slightly? Doesn't look like it, but it wouldn't need to be much for the linkage to not latch.

This also just started yesterday and I haven't dug into it at all. Any suggestions welcomed and appreciated!

 

[jacob j.]

Spoke to the Husqvarna rep and he said the 372 is in the lineup once again for 2022. Going to be hard to kill that saw. I have my pitchfork and shovel ready when they do.

I still love the 372 platform. I made a living with them and they're just a great machine - easy to work on, cheap to rebuild, run good even stock - the 372 is right up there with the Stihl 046, Pioneer P-62, and Mac SP-125.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

And while there's a little life to this thread at the moment, here's something I posted to the 357/359 specific thread a couple days ago that I probably should have cross-posted here anyway.

We all know about the intake leak issues with the plastic snap clamp debacle and the associated fixes on the saws that use that intake setup.

I recently ran into another air leak problem with that intake setup that I haven't seen much about. Drove me nuts nailing it down and it probably could have been tuned out, but I rebuilt the same saw for the guy 3 or 4 years ago and it was completely tight when I finished it then. No reason it shouldn't be again.

Here's what I found this time around.



Appeared to be leaking behind the flange since that's where the bubbles were. I'm wondering how the hell that's even physically possible since the boot seals against the front surface of the flange.

Had it apart a few times before pulling the bellows (boot) out of the flange and finding these cracks. They didn't go quite all the way through and weren't visible from the opposite side. That woulda been wayyy too easy. LOL



Anyway, just a heads up if you service one of the saws using this type of flange/boot arrangement. Most likely a pretty good chance there are more of these out there than just this one. Also a pretty good chance the condition was caused by excessive tightening (possibly by me last time around) of the intake assembly and the cracks occurring over time. That said, I've only heard of these flange threads stripping, not cracking. Regardless, if cracks are present, they'll be hidden if they don't go all the way through the flange. Might be something to consider checking as part of your routine when working on these saws.., especially if you're dealing with a pesky intake leak.

 

[huskihl]

And while there's a little life to this thread at the moment, here's something I posted to the 357/359 specific thread a couple days ago that I probably should have cross-posted here anyway.

We all know about the intake leak issues with the plastic snap clamp debacle and the associated fixes on the saws that use that intake setup.

I recently ran into another air leak problem with that intake setup that I haven't seen much about. Drove me nuts nailing it down and it probably could have been tuned out, but I rebuilt the same saw for the guy 3 or 4 years ago and it was completely tight when I finished it then. No reason it shouldn't be again.

Here's what I found this time around.

View attachment 311033

Appeared to be leaking behind the flange since that's where the bubbles were. I'm wondering how the hell that's even physically possible since the boot seals against the front surface of the flange.

Had it apart a few times before pulling the bellows (boot) out of the flange and finding these cracks. They didn't go quite all the way through and weren't visible from the opposite side. That woulda been wayyy too easy. LOL

View attachment 311034

Anyway, just a heads up if you service one of the saws using this type of flange/boot arrangement. Most likely a pretty good chance there are more of these out there than just this one. Also a pretty good chance the condition was caused by excessive tightening (possibly by me last time around) of the intake assembly and the cracks occurring over time. That said, I've only heard of these flange threads stripping, not cracking. Regardless, if cracks are present, they'll be hidden if they don't go all the way through the flange. Might be something to consider checking as part of your routine when working on these saws.., especially if you're dealing with a pesky intake leak.

The cracks allow it to distort and warp. 365/72 and 7900’s will do it too

 

[Al Smith]

As far as the brand I can't say anything bad about them but I only own a few .281,2100 CD and two little trim saws 235 or whatever they are .The 2100 is a west coaster with a V stack and a K and N filter .I assume it's stock because it only blows a slight bit over 165 PSI static .It obviously wears a D-handle because it's about like rope starting a Harley .That old duffer will cut though like no tomorrow once it gets lit off .

 

[Gord]

About to start into a 359 this week, well a pair to make one good saw - great info- don't really know about the boot clamp fix, maybe someone can direct me to that post.

 

[Mattyo]

Pretty sure the boot issue is in my 350 tips and tricks video on yt. Basically same as 359 for the intake boot. Plastic clamps fail over time.. metal clamp is upgrade.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Go here.

https://opeforum.com/threads/husqvarna-357-359-repair-thread.9722/